HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
02-27-2008, 08:21 AM
hpi tires...letters meaning?
hi,
something about hpi foam tires.
other than shore numbers, there's a letter (a,b,c,etc) to the tires, what does the letter indicate?
cheers...
something about hpi foam tires.
other than shore numbers, there's a letter (a,b,c,etc) to the tires, what does the letter indicate?
cheers...
02-27-2008, 10:42 AM
A=30 Shore
B=32 Shore
C=35 Shore
D=37 Shore
E=40 Shore
F=42 Shore
G=45 Shore
B=32 Shore
C=35 Shore
D=37 Shore
E=40 Shore
F=42 Shore
G=45 Shore
02-27-2008, 11:20 AM
Thanks for the info, at my local track for club racing. We race once a month, but I plan if time permits I plan to do some traveling and get some more racing under my belt. Our track is sprayed with a VHT type of compound.
I am sure as to my specs of my track size. It changes from month to month.
as my next race I will tak some pics!!!
I am sure as to my specs of my track size. It changes from month to month.
as my next race I will tak some pics!!!
BTW, do you drive a Camry? Here's mine
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2813285
02-27-2008, 08:14 PM
USPS show you got the package today. Hope it arrived in good condition.
BTW, do you drive a Camry? Here's mine
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2813285
BTW, do you drive a Camry? Here's mine
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2813285
Yes I did drive a camry, I just sold is about 4-5 years ago. it was a 1995- http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...WffRB?start=12 Man your car is sweet, how is the I4 with the 20's? I had 18's with my I4..
p.s. do you mainly run HPI brand tires?
Thanks again, Jason.
Last edited by jscamry; 02-27-2008 at 08:25 PM. Reason: added info
02-29-2008, 08:30 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (-1)
R40 for sale
ok guys only a couple of hours left bid while you can on this great deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-R40-1-10-nit...QQcmdZViewItem
03-01-2008, 12:32 AM
I have lots of HPI tires because I'm a HPI Homer!!!! HPI everything baby!!
All kidding aside, I use the HPI rubber tires because of the HPI challenge races. I've been racing in them since 1999 with my very first RC car. At my local races, I use just about anything that works. Sorex or take-off for rubber. Twister, Jaco, Ufra (can't remember them all) for foam.
The I4 with 20's is fine. Good thing I don't drive it like my RC car. The ride suffers a bit though, my wife has made a couple of comments. I would have gotten the v6, but I put the extra money into cosmetics. It only looks fast. My son just turned 16 and he cant wait to get his mitts on it so I'm glad its not too fast.
All kidding aside, I use the HPI rubber tires because of the HPI challenge races. I've been racing in them since 1999 with my very first RC car. At my local races, I use just about anything that works. Sorex or take-off for rubber. Twister, Jaco, Ufra (can't remember them all) for foam.
The I4 with 20's is fine. Good thing I don't drive it like my RC car. The ride suffers a bit though, my wife has made a couple of comments. I would have gotten the v6, but I put the extra money into cosmetics. It only looks fast. My son just turned 16 and he cant wait to get his mitts on it so I'm glad its not too fast.
03-01-2008, 10:30 PM
Tech Initiate
How about R40 2005 edition?
Hi guys, i am thinking of getting a new ride. I own a Team Magic G4S. But i am thinking of getting rid of it. It is due to a lack of spare parts in my area. I saw a R40'05 edition which sells at an offer price of $330. Need to find out more. For example the difference between this and the baseline R40 version. What about parts durability/ease of chassis assembly as compared to current generation of touring cars? Please advise me as your advise will determine my "membership" at the R40 club. Thank you & have a nice day.
03-04-2008, 12:07 AM
Hi guys, i am thinking of getting a new ride. I own a Team Magic G4S. But i am thinking of getting rid of it. It is due to a lack of spare parts in my area. I saw a R40'05 edition which sells at an offer price of $330. Need to find out more. For example the difference between this and the baseline R40 version. What about parts durability/ease of chassis assembly as compared to current generation of touring cars? Please advise me as your advise will determine my "membership" at the R40 club. Thank you & have a nice day.
03-05-2008, 05:39 PM
Hello guys, does anyone have a great idea as to build the clutch for the R40. I went out and bought new parts for my stock clutch. I even tried to build the clutch per the manual, but it still did not seem to engage during this weekend at my race.The car handled fine in its stock form. However I had the engine was a bit rich and was not producing enough power (I am running the JLR evo3 ).
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
Last edited by jscamry; 03-05-2008 at 09:42 PM.
03-05-2008, 06:26 PM
Hello guys, does anyone have a great idea as to build the clutch for the R40. I went out and bought new parts for my stock clutch. I even tried to build the clutch per the manual, but it still did not seem to engage durring this weekend at my race.The car handled fine in its stock form. However I had the engine was a bit rich and was not producing enough power.
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
- throw out the circular spring that sits inside the clutch weights
- use a mugen grey clutch shoe for low grip or a yellow one for high grip (e.g. vht)
- try a kyosho RRR clutch spring, it's a bit shorter than the HPI one and allows for more tuning
- when you build the clutch set the clearance to .03-.04mm. This is achieved by removing the inner clutch bearing and measuring how much of the crank sticks out past the clutch bell, then doing the same with the bearing in place and subtracting the two numbers. Add shims between the flywheel nut and the inner bearing (the b023 or whatever it is) until the difference is right
- set your end play to 0.1mm. You can do this with a feeler gauge or by adding .1mm shims until the clutch locks up and then remove two. you remove 2 because the gap may be .05mm before you add the last shim, so removing it will leave a .05mm clearence which is too small and causes the clutch to constantly drive the thrust, which will destroy it
- grease your thrust before every run
Alternatively you can buy an entire mtx3 clutch and fit it. You need to dremel the engine mount holes to get it to line up properly but it is a much better clutch
03-05-2008, 10:16 PM
Hello guys, does anyone have a great idea as to build the clutch for the R40. I went out and bought new parts for my stock clutch. I even tried to build the clutch per the manual, but it still did not seem to engage during this weekend at my race.The car handled fine in its stock form. However I had the engine was a bit rich and was not producing enough power (I am running the JLR evo3 ).
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
I tried to use the search option, but I did not find to much info.
p.s. I will post a pic of my track once I am home from work!!
Thanks Jason
You will need to click on the "view" link in Craig's quote above to see the attachment in his original reply.
03-05-2008, 10:54 PM
Thanks CraigM and Roy for the info. So it seems that many of you are not running the stock clutch for the R40.... I tried to search for the bearing prt # of the mugen clutch I did not find it on the exploded view of the clutch.what bearing sizes are you running on your clutch setup?
here is a pic of my track from this weekend!
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Thanks Jason.
here is a pic of my track from this weekend!
[IMG]
[/IMG]Thanks Jason.
03-05-2008, 11:17 PM
AI, this was posted in another thread. You have probably already read it, but this is the method I used to set up my stock R40 clutch. It has been a couple of months since I last ran my car and probably a year since I last did my clutch so I couldn't remember exactly how I did it. I do know that the clutch engagement is fairly low. I have the clutch setup even lower for my son's R40 so he can be a bit smoother. Good information.
Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
When you have the whole clutch together you should have the .6mm of end play.
Uhhmmm... close but not quite right. Endplay is different from clutch gap.
When the entire clutch is together, ready to run, you should have barely any endplay (0.1mm). However, there should be a 0.6mm clutch gap between the clutch shoe and the endbell.
If you perform the assembly/shimming in the following order, the clutch gap should be fine, the end play should be minimal, and there is no way that the clutchbell will be pressing against the clutch shoe.
1. Install the following:
0.5mm washer behind flywheel cone -- tapered cone -- flywheel -- flywheel nut -- flyweights -- clutch shoe rear plate -- clutch shoe -- spring cup (in clutch shoe) -- tension spring -- spring preload collar -- clutchbell w/ outermost ballbearing -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw. You leave OUT the following: innermost ballbearing in clutchbell, and small spacer between ballbearings.
2. Set clutch gap to 0.6mm -- using shims on thrustbearing collar.
3. Remove the following:
Machine screw -- thrustbearing assembly -- clutchbell.
4. Install the following:
Innermost ballbearing (on crankshaft) -- small spacer -- clutchbell (with outermost ballbearing in it) -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw.
Make sure you use good grease in the thrustbearing, every time you work on it. Mugen Super Grease is VERY good... it's very thick, lubes well, and lasts a long time.
5. Check the END PLAY... this is the amount that the clutchbell moves on the crankshaft. There should be barely any movement along the crankshaft (0.1mm) but the clutchbell should have some play. It should not be locked in place on the crankshaft, as this puts pressure on bearings and will cause dragging and premature wear/failure.
6. To adjust the end play, you will use the tiny, thin-wall shims. Remove the clutchbell and all bearings (and spacers) (as an assembly), and put these tiny shims on the crankshaft right atop the flywheel nut. Then re-assemble everything and check again.
7. When everything is back together, hold the motor so the crankshaft is pointing at the ground, and spin the clutchbell... it should spin freely (for more than 5sec)... but this depends also on the heaviness of the grease you use in the thrustbearing. If the clutchbell doesn't spin well but seems to bind, you may not have enough endplay or the bearings may be bad.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by GlennCauley : Today at 07:49 AM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
When you have the whole clutch together you should have the .6mm of end play.
Uhhmmm... close but not quite right. Endplay is different from clutch gap.
When the entire clutch is together, ready to run, you should have barely any endplay (0.1mm). However, there should be a 0.6mm clutch gap between the clutch shoe and the endbell.
If you perform the assembly/shimming in the following order, the clutch gap should be fine, the end play should be minimal, and there is no way that the clutchbell will be pressing against the clutch shoe.
1. Install the following:
0.5mm washer behind flywheel cone -- tapered cone -- flywheel -- flywheel nut -- flyweights -- clutch shoe rear plate -- clutch shoe -- spring cup (in clutch shoe) -- tension spring -- spring preload collar -- clutchbell w/ outermost ballbearing -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw. You leave OUT the following: innermost ballbearing in clutchbell, and small spacer between ballbearings.
2. Set clutch gap to 0.6mm -- using shims on thrustbearing collar.
3. Remove the following:
Machine screw -- thrustbearing assembly -- clutchbell.
4. Install the following:
Innermost ballbearing (on crankshaft) -- small spacer -- clutchbell (with outermost ballbearing in it) -- thrustbearing assembly -- machine screw.
Make sure you use good grease in the thrustbearing, every time you work on it. Mugen Super Grease is VERY good... it's very thick, lubes well, and lasts a long time.
5. Check the END PLAY... this is the amount that the clutchbell moves on the crankshaft. There should be barely any movement along the crankshaft (0.1mm) but the clutchbell should have some play. It should not be locked in place on the crankshaft, as this puts pressure on bearings and will cause dragging and premature wear/failure.
6. To adjust the end play, you will use the tiny, thin-wall shims. Remove the clutchbell and all bearings (and spacers) (as an assembly), and put these tiny shims on the crankshaft right atop the flywheel nut. Then re-assemble everything and check again.
7. When everything is back together, hold the motor so the crankshaft is pointing at the ground, and spin the clutchbell... it should spin freely (for more than 5sec)... but this depends also on the heaviness of the grease you use in the thrustbearing. If the clutchbell doesn't spin well but seems to bind, you may not have enough endplay or the bearings may be bad.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by GlennCauley : Today at 07:49 AM.
AND another R40 clutch eventually works.
I got my clutch to work correctly today. Had a quick look at all the posts about the clutches this morning and decided, today is the day.
I reamed my new mugen grey clutch shoe's holes. I fitted a new clutch bell. Checked the gaps and set the spring lock nut to 0.6mm.
Started the motor and it worked first time. The only big change from previous set-ups was the new clutch bell.
The acceleration was awesome. My R40 with an os .12 tz and os pipe was faster than a mugen mtx 4 with a RB motor in the back straight.
The only bad thing that happened is that my second gear stripped completely. Don't know why, maybe my engine alignment was wrong or the one-way bearing in the two speed got stuck.
Had to order new parts from tower hobbies. They will only arrive next Friday.
THAT SUCKS.
I got my clutch to work correctly today. Had a quick look at all the posts about the clutches this morning and decided, today is the day.
I reamed my new mugen grey clutch shoe's holes. I fitted a new clutch bell. Checked the gaps and set the spring lock nut to 0.6mm.
Started the motor and it worked first time. The only big change from previous set-ups was the new clutch bell.
The acceleration was awesome. My R40 with an os .12 tz and os pipe was faster than a mugen mtx 4 with a RB motor in the back straight.
The only bad thing that happened is that my second gear stripped completely. Don't know why, maybe my engine alignment was wrong or the one-way bearing in the two speed got stuck.
Had to order new parts from tower hobbies. They will only arrive next Friday.
THAT SUCKS.
Anyway, that JPG is showing a Mugen clutch. The R40 one has only one inner bearing. Just use that method with your clutch and you should be good. The last time I setup my clutch, I switched to the Mugen Gray shoe, but everything else stayed HPI. I had to ream the holes out a bit to get it to fit over the pins, but I was really happy with the engagement. It seemed to launch harder.
03-06-2008, 04:39 PM
Here is an old section of the forum with my old clutch setup method. Works well too. Jeremy, you even posted a couple of posts after.
Anyway, that JPG is showing a Mugen clutch. The R40 one has only one inner bearing. Just use that method with your clutch and you should be good. The last time I setup my clutch, I switched to the Mugen Gray shoe, but everything else stayed HPI. I had to ream the holes out a bit to get it to fit over the pins, but I was really happy with the engagement. It seemed to launch harder.
Anyway, that JPG is showing a Mugen clutch. The R40 one has only one inner bearing. Just use that method with your clutch and you should be good. The last time I setup my clutch, I switched to the Mugen Gray shoe, but everything else stayed HPI. I had to ream the holes out a bit to get it to fit over the pins, but I was really happy with the engagement. It seemed to launch harder.
Thanks again all for the help with the clutch, I went out and I bought a mugen grey shoe and a caliper today. But what size shims are you guys running after the larger bearing and after the thrust bearing?
Thanks Jason.
03-06-2008, 04:59 PM
The thickness of the shims is going to vary depending on the engine MFG and the collet used. I'm actually using a steel washer after the 1st bearing. It's around .5 to .7 mm thick. I just threw it in there and it worked great. It was somthing I found in the junk drawer in my workbench.