jscamry

iTrader: (5)

this might be of some help!

http://www.teammrp.com/download.html

Jason

steven w

thanks for the advices about the R40 car
the more good things i read about it the more exciting i am for buying it.
I allready had a 'electric car a tb-01 fully tuned to a tb evo 3, but not regulary with it.
but this'll be my first nitro car, and offcourse it's a whole different thing, compared to a electric car, so i hope i'll have some more fun with it. .
catch up with you later guys.

StEvE

vulso

Hello Everyone,

I went to test run my R40 today for my race tomorrow and the darn thing wouldn't start. I ran good last weekend until first gear went out, so I replaced with a new two speed maintenance kit. I messed with it over an hour and it would not start. The glow plug is fine and ignitor and it had fuel and fully charged car battery for the starter box. Another note, the screw that holds the clutch just sits there and spins while I try to start it ( can't say I noticed this before). I have the 12rxs engine ( i think it's an STS) which has ran very well up to this point. It sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't. I got frustrated with it and had to put it up, so I thought I would check on the forum for any help or advice. Thanks

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

90% of the time its the glow ignitor low on charge.

Other 10% is normally a bad glow-plug. Ive had plugs even look good but wont start the car.

ProE

Had a similar problem before. Checked the glow plug + all batteries and every thing was fine, but the car just wouldn't start. I then asked one of the experienced guys at the track for help. He reset all my needles on engine to factory settings and it started first time. In the end we realised that the low speed needle was too lean to get the engine to start.

vulso

Thanks for the info and help. I just got real frustrated with it, I went back and checked the plugs and ignitor again and they were fine. So I checked my needle settings again and noticed my low speed needle was to far in. I brought it back out flush, how many turns in should I go? It was real lean .

Also came up with a mod for the steering that works well. I bought a pack of Duro 4-40 rod ends and popped the balls out and put them in the HPI 4.8x4-40 ball cups, with pressure from a pair of pliers. Used the Dubro hardware to put them together and fasten them. This took all the slop out while still giving room to rotate on the balls in the HPI ball cups. Not sure what everyone else is doing, but pretty proud of myself on this one!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Always good to do stuff like that. Good work.

Today I went to practice and had some trouble. I not only was having some weird shifting into second (go in and out). I was revving the car and it was shooting to high rpms and going no where.

I was told this is the one-way bearing in the 1st gear hub. Im pretty sure the person is correct as they know there stuff. But my question is , has anyone had this trouble before with the 1st gear hubs on the LW set.

Also does anyone know where to get those bearings? Do I need a whole new lw 2speed set? Im thinking its probably time , this one has about 5 hours on it....1 year worth of use.

Also do you think engaging at low rpm helped or caused more trouble with this? Track was ultra dusty so hard to drive well....was more like my first time drifting. But was fun....

Oh and my urethane belt completely blew in the rear. It looked brand new...except the fact that it split right in the middle of the teeth. This thing had maybe 30 minutes on it?

I thought these things were more durable? That one also baffled me....and running in fwd only was different.

AMGRacer

The in and out shifting is usually due to the 2 setscrews on the small balls not being tight enough.

If you car wont drive in 1st as you described then you are correct, it is usually the one-way bearing. Dust is not your friend in this bearing. Get some serpent one-way lube and use regularly. You can get the 1st gear holder and the bearing as a spare. Getting the bearing itself is not that hard, but ungluing the original one is pretty tough.

The urethane belts are claimed to be more durable, but I have experienced the exact opposite with mine. I think they are definately less draggy, but also less durable.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Awesome, quick reply. Thanks!

Yeah I noticed thats what I was thinking was causing that issue and have readjusted that like 3 times now , everytime i come back the shaft is loose and can rotate around. But glad someone confirmed it.

Do you think the bearing is toast? First time happening and yeah it was very very dusty track.

What are the part #'s or places to find. I checked hpi and couldnt find it.

AMGRacer

In my experiences of failed oneways, if they expire they usually wont come back properly good again. You can get them to work, but they usually will fail as you are winning the main or some other inconvenient time.

Do you still have your LW 2 speed instructions? The part number is in that........ I can go dig mine out if not.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah no worries, ill track that down hiding somewhere. Your comment made me laugh....thanks for the advice. Ill get that new one on the way.

Also in your opinion , do you think I should just go for a all new 2speed kit and lay this one to rest? The spur gears look great....and interior looks good otherwise. You say its hard to get out that one-way bearing? How hard...lol.

Thanks again for the speedy replies...you saved me some time to get this thing fixed before tommorrows morning race.

AMGRacer

Man dont laugh, I was leading our state champion a few years ago in the main for the series win with my V1R and with less than a minute to go I grabbed the throttle and got a box full of neutrals. I limped it home to 3rd and a 4th in the series. Not happy.

If the 1st gear bearing is shot, and yous shoes are worn and not retaining the screws properly you might want to consider a new 2 speed set.

The oneway bearing is glued into the carrier. I pretty much tore one to bits trying to get the bearing out, but this was a Kyosho carrier. The HPI one MAY be easier. If you can get a press and a correct size spindle it should not be too hard, but be careful damaging the new one on the way in.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

LOL, yeah If you know my luck it would probably work out the same. Id probably get it working fine the entire day then a-main last lap I grab the box full of nuetrals....BTW Thats a great way to explain it. Ill have to use that. No but seriously If it can go wrong at the worst time possible...it will happen to me.

Funny thing too today, the guy who won the kyosho cup in america was there running (Ben) his fw-05 for fun and he had the same deal going on with theirs and we were battling back and forth with our nuetral action on the straightaway. It was pretty funny. Hed eek the car maybe 10 feet....then it would stop, then mine would catch and get maybe 10 feet ahead....then his would kick in and he would have to veer to miss me. LOL.

Rapid Roy

AI, with the rear belt, you probably ate a pebble which caused the belt to split. The urethane belts are pretty brittle. I'm pretty sure that HPI lists them as low drag belts, not heavy duty belts. I remember this issue or confusion when HPI realeased urethane belts for the Racer 2.

dnitro

Here is the list of entries I copied from the 1/10 Nationals forum.

No HPI drivers. Too bad HPI don't support the R40 in the US in big races, like they do in ASIA. I would be nice to have one R40 driver, HARA, kick some butt.

MTX-4

Acosta, Marco
Alvarado, Daniel
Báez, Andy - Puerto Rico
Bell, Matt
Burrows, James
Calangi, Ron
Casas, Jose
Chhu, Peter
Collins, Robbie
Fisher, Scott
Hananouchi, Harry
Huse, Michael
Ishitani, Darin
Li, Ken
Navarrete, Alex
Palazzola, Michael
Rapp, Jerry
Rossi, Steve
Serafin, Roger
Sanchez, Sean
Shing, Michael
Sohl, Stephen
Strack, Mike
Swauger, Mike
Taylor,Rich
Thomas, Brian
Tobing, Lucas
Toffelmire, Brad
Welsh, Jim
Yap, Norbert

710

Hagobian, Garen
Mowery, Andrew
Schwartz, Sandy
Sim,Nigel
Virtusio, Leo

720

Morganti, Paolo
Tosolini, Chris
Velazco, Maxy
Gray, Scotty

V-ONE RRR

Astacaan, Ralph
Atomic, Ron
Bagamaspad, Jeff
Barnes, Earl
Blackburn, Jeff
Cruz, Marc
Cyrul, Josh
Diaz, Walter
Espina, Roel
Johnson, Joel
Kinney, Brian
LeMieux, Paul
Lin, Jeff
Naboyshchikov, Leo
Pavidis, Mark
Pendergrass, William
Quiroga, Fernando
Sim, Nigel
Smeltzer, Dana
Vasutin, Eric

GPX4

Coleman, Paul
Lin, Jeffrey
Verano, Chris
Vessell, Rick

G4S

Berry, Brian
Berry,Dave
Felish,Sam
Frederick, Alan
Juhl, Ray
Richey, Dennis