HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#9901
Originally Posted by ProE
This is my local track. My 2005 edition got a one dif in front.
Sould I keep One way dif or go to standard dir.
Sould I keep One way dif or go to standard dir.
#9902
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Hey guys, was wondering how you do the lw battery packs and batter box mod on the 2004 kit? I thought you just removed the battery box right and then tape the hump pack to the battery door?
I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?
Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?
Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
#9904
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hey guys, was wondering how you do the lw battery packs and batter box mod on the 2004 kit? I thought you just removed the battery box right and then tape the hump pack to the battery door?
I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?
Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?
Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
Ran my 2005 on the weekend with my N12LL3 and a full Mugen clutch with yellow shoe. Man this thing almost drives like a mod electric car now. Very impressed.
#9906
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I posted the HPI instruction sheet you get with the battery pack a few pages back, it shows you where to trim on that......... I always ran my packs as far forward as possible.
Ran my 2005 on the weekend with my N12LL3 and a full Mugen clutch with yellow shoe. Man this thing almost drives like a mod electric car now. Very impressed.
Ran my 2005 on the weekend with my N12LL3 and a full Mugen clutch with yellow shoe. Man this thing almost drives like a mod electric car now. Very impressed.
Thanks for the input and help.
#9908
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...hmentid=110214
Ah cool found it , saved it this time. Will print that one out.
Ah cool found it , saved it this time. Will print that one out.
#9910
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Weird just weighed my car 1650 without body and 1750 with one. I just did the lw battery / battery box mod. My speedmind battery weighs around 66g. So im wondering what I did to add weight , lol. Because my old weight was exactly 1650...lol.
Im thinking before I had all s3003 servos. Oh well , I might just change my throttle back to it. I have the s3010 on there now , just to see how a stronger brake helps with the one-way.
Also does anyone have any tweak station they have tried. Im looking to get one. Integy has one that just weighs each end of your car with a digital scale. Im thinking I might just go with that. $80 is kinda pricey though.
Im thinking before I had all s3003 servos. Oh well , I might just change my throttle back to it. I have the s3010 on there now , just to see how a stronger brake helps with the one-way.
Also does anyone have any tweak station they have tried. Im looking to get one. Integy has one that just weighs each end of your car with a digital scale. Im thinking I might just go with that. $80 is kinda pricey though.
#9911
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Engine Stroke
I just thought I'd like to share a little opinion on stroke as I feel it's also important factor in choosing an engine and setup. I ran two tests with the MT12 and RB V12 Rody (non mod). The MT12 I recall has a longer stroke and produced a lot more bottom end. Testing it (in a special area) it reached a designated spot faster than my Rody. Here's the issue...my Rody model is older...and no where near as fast as the newer ones. Infact, using a similiar setup I've been blown away by a top TSR12 engine all around the track and back stretch. The LW gears are indeed lighter, but the fact of matter is the gearing is still quite tall...and I didn't like it for bridgeport or FBF. The shorter gears allowed me to keep up with the pack, but few adjustments need to be made...some I have now:
oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel
Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.
oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel
Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.
#9912
Thank you AMG for your help
#9913
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey AMG how do you like the N12LL3. You say you have the Hots or standard version?
#9914
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Was this your first time running the full mugen clutch? Also what would you classify the yellow shoe as. I just got mine and im wondering if I should use it.
Thanks for the input and help.
Thanks for the input and help.
#9915
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I just thought I'd like to share a little opinion on stroke as I feel it's also important factor in choosing an engine and setup. I ran two tests with the MT12 and RB V12 Rody (non mod). The MT12 I recall has a longer stroke and produced a lot more bottom end. Testing it (in a special area) it reached a designated spot faster than my Rody. Here's the issue...my Rody model is older...and no where near as fast as the newer ones. Infact, using a similiar setup I've been blown away by a top TSR12 engine all around the track and back stretch. The LW gears are indeed lighter, but the fact of matter is the gearing is still quite tall...and I didn't like it for bridgeport or FBF. The shorter gears allowed me to keep up with the pack, but few adjustments need to be made...some I have now:
oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel
Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.
oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel
Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.