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Old 02-26-2006, 03:15 PM   #9901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
This is my local track. My 2005 edition got a one dif in front.

Sould I keep One way dif or go to standard dir.
I pretty much always use a one-way. Do you need to brake harder on the track than the one-way can offer? If so go to a diff or spool. If not then one-way will usually be faster.
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Old 02-26-2006, 03:56 PM   #9902
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Hey guys, was wondering how you do the lw battery packs and batter box mod on the 2004 kit? I thought you just removed the battery box right and then tape the hump pack to the battery door?

I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?

Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
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Old 02-26-2006, 05:10 PM   #9903
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I'm going to switch to the lw pack and going to just leave it centered for now. Rody is going and MT12 is going back in for practice. Debating between the TZ and N12LL3 standard. No real need for the tim hots mod vs unless I go to some huge track.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:14 PM   #9904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hey guys, was wondering how you do the lw battery packs and batter box mod on the 2004 kit? I thought you just removed the battery box right and then tape the hump pack to the battery door?

I noticed it leaves the one end of the battery door without something to slip into? Am I supposed to just shave a certain part of the battery box?

Also how are you laying your batteries , more to the front or rear or are you just putting the weight to where you think you need it. For example front for more turn , rear for less turn.
I posted the HPI instruction sheet you get with the battery pack a few pages back, it shows you where to trim on that......... I always ran my packs as far forward as possible.

Ran my 2005 on the weekend with my N12LL3 and a full Mugen clutch with yellow shoe. Man this thing almost drives like a mod electric car now. Very impressed.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:37 PM   #9905
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Hey AMG how do you like the N12LL3. You say you have the Hots or standard version?
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:01 PM   #9906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I posted the HPI instruction sheet you get with the battery pack a few pages back, it shows you where to trim on that......... I always ran my packs as far forward as possible.

Ran my 2005 on the weekend with my N12LL3 and a full Mugen clutch with yellow shoe. Man this thing almost drives like a mod electric car now. Very impressed.
Was this your first time running the full mugen clutch? Also what would you classify the yellow shoe as. I just got mine and im wondering if I should use it.

Thanks for the input and help.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:07 PM   #9907
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I hear the yellow is a softer clutch shoe and can wear out faster. Some guys use the red or grey for longevity.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:11 PM   #9908
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http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...hmentid=110214

Ah cool found it , saved it this time. Will print that one out.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:47 PM   #9909
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MT12 is back






rear body mounts I stole from my NEO TNT. They are shorter and thicker than the HPI ones. They are less likely to break either.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:43 PM   #9910
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Weird just weighed my car 1650 without body and 1750 with one. I just did the lw battery / battery box mod. My speedmind battery weighs around 66g. So im wondering what I did to add weight , lol. Because my old weight was exactly 1650...lol.

Im thinking before I had all s3003 servos. Oh well , I might just change my throttle back to it. I have the s3010 on there now , just to see how a stronger brake helps with the one-way.

Also does anyone have any tweak station they have tried. Im looking to get one. Integy has one that just weighs each end of your car with a digital scale. Im thinking I might just go with that. $80 is kinda pricey though.
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:42 AM   #9911
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Default Engine Stroke

I just thought I'd like to share a little opinion on stroke as I feel it's also important factor in choosing an engine and setup. I ran two tests with the MT12 and RB V12 Rody (non mod). The MT12 I recall has a longer stroke and produced a lot more bottom end. Testing it (in a special area) it reached a designated spot faster than my Rody. Here's the issue...my Rody model is older...and no where near as fast as the newer ones. Infact, using a similiar setup I've been blown away by a top TSR12 engine all around the track and back stretch. The LW gears are indeed lighter, but the fact of matter is the gearing is still quite tall...and I didn't like it for bridgeport or FBF. The shorter gears allowed me to keep up with the pack, but few adjustments need to be made...some I have now:

oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel

Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.
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Old 02-27-2006, 12:26 PM   #9912
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Thank you AMG for your help
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:23 PM   #9913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey AMG how do you like the N12LL3. You say you have the Hots or standard version?
Standard version. It hammers, great bottom end. Very good motor.
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:25 PM   #9914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Was this your first time running the full mugen clutch? Also what would you classify the yellow shoe as. I just got mine and im wondering if I should use it.

Thanks for the input and help.
Yeah I have always had a mut, half HPI half Mugen. This one is full Mugen, works awesome. I have only run the yellow shoe so far, so I cant say how it compares to the grey or red, need to test it more. But I am very happy with the punch.
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:27 PM   #9915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
I just thought I'd like to share a little opinion on stroke as I feel it's also important factor in choosing an engine and setup. I ran two tests with the MT12 and RB V12 Rody (non mod). The MT12 I recall has a longer stroke and produced a lot more bottom end. Testing it (in a special area) it reached a designated spot faster than my Rody. Here's the issue...my Rody model is older...and no where near as fast as the newer ones. Infact, using a similiar setup I've been blown away by a top TSR12 engine all around the track and back stretch. The LW gears are indeed lighter, but the fact of matter is the gearing is still quite tall...and I didn't like it for bridgeport or FBF. The shorter gears allowed me to keep up with the pack, but few adjustments need to be made...some I have now:

oneway
4gear diff
pipe
30% fuel

Checking out other engines I noticed how the stroke varies and allowed others to have more bottom end. For now I'll be using the MT12 and RB pipe and leaving it as that. I'll be running the 8th onroad and the $$ I'll get from the Rody will be split between the two cars. The MT12 has really surprised me on the 20%/THS pipe, and will only surprise me more on 30% and the RB pipe. Clutch setup will be changed when I get to bridge again as I felt a slightly loosen one was needed so the car wouldn't really power out of the turns too much. Again I'm still running the original R40 w/ upgrades and won't change due to the $$ put into this one. Hope everyone else's R40's are doing well and you all are ready to represent this '06 race season! Maybe for fun, I'll try a ceramic bearing in the rear of my MT12, but only if the price is right. Heard those suckers are quite the price, and I'd rather not have them put a dent in my wallet. Time to go home...in class right now.
The MT12 has the same stroke as the Rody, just a longer conrod. You will find that a correctly tuned MT12 is fast, but a Rody X12 should kill it on the top end. Any newer motor should be significantly faster than the MT12, especially on the straights. I love my MT12s, but they just cant compete (non modifiied) these days.
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