HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
09-18-2005, 10:25 AM
#8806
better get to work i see. Anyways about my engine. RB v12 3 port turbo. I was thinking of replacing the bearings with some high quality ceramic ones. Anyone know of sites that sell them? I know that the ones that came with it are great...but every little bit counts 
.
09-18-2005, 10:28 AM
#8807
09-18-2005, 09:24 PM
#8808
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I have 3 os's. I know they are pretty good. I also hear about their reliability as well. But the OS TZ I heard and read from a couple of people it has trouble lasting 2 gallons on some motors. From what my lhs says OS is always hit or miss. A good example is the TR.
I have a os 12tz 5-port and after 1 gallon of fuel, the piston head chipped and cracked. I shipped it back to OS and they are giving me a new engine.
09-18-2005, 09:51 PM
#8809
Are Parts for the Racer 2 still Available !for the time being ide like to race my Racer 2 but dont want to be stuck with a car with a broken part!
09-19-2005, 06:47 AM
#8810
Originally Posted by BatJam1
Are Parts for the Racer 2 still Available !for the time being ide like to race my Racer 2 but dont want to be stuck with a car with a broken part!
Some parts are available, but you'd be better off finding a used, or new R40. Much, much better car.
my $.02
09-19-2005, 07:06 AM
#8811
Tech Elite
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Originally Posted by BatJam1
Are Parts for the Racer 2 still Available !for the time being ide like to race my Racer 2 but don't want to be stuck with a car with a broken part!
a lot of the parts still are.....and believe me, I have more racer2 stuff than I know what to do with......I can always help you out......
09-19-2005, 08:12 AM
#8812
Recently I purchased an R40. Compared with my MTX-3 and RRR, it seems to understeer pretty bad. The steering is slow even with a 0.06 sec airtronic steering servo. My setup is similar to Hara's, but with 4mm in front and 4.5mm in the rear for ride height. For the tires, I am currently running 45 in the front and 42 in the rear. Plus I adjusted toe out to 3 on each side. I tried using the 42 in the front, but they were gripping too hard causing the rear to lift. Thanks
Last edited by wendellc1; 09-19-2005 at 08:32 AM.
09-19-2005, 10:59 AM
#8814
Originally Posted by ChrisR40
Just wanted to let everybody know that I was able to qualify 4th 
and was able to pull out a win 
with my R40 at the Alabama State Championship race this past weekend.
and was able to pull out a win with my R40 at the Alabama State Championship race this past weekend.
09-19-2005, 12:02 PM
#8815
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I will to the best of my abbility. I will have to check my set-up tonight and let you know later. This is what I know off the top of my head.
Front.
40 wt. oil with ae copper springs in the upper outer mount on the carbon shock tower.
1 deg. toe-in
caster and camber? will check tonight
drop not sure and ride hight is 6mm, sway bar at kit setting
35 shore GQ foams
Rear
30 wt. oil with ae green springs inner most hole on carbon shock tower and do not have the extension on the arm.
3 deg. toe-in
2 deg. camber
ride height 5mm
silver sway bar (sofest)
drop ?
use the 2 deg. suspension blocks
extended the wheel base. have a 2mm shim in front of the arm and 5mm shim behind the arm
35 shore GQ foams
hop-ups
LW chassis, carbon shock towers, LW shafts, LW engine mounts, carbon battery cover, ball bearing steering, and acer ceramic nitrade ball bearings.
Engine is an Infinity Katana 512 with RDLogics Turbo II pipe with Sidewinder 30% fuel
I do not have the tools to measure drop so I can not give you that info.
The car had a lot of grip and still needs to be tweaked on. The car is close but it feels like it is missing something and I can not think of it.
If there is any other info you need please feel free to ask
Front.
40 wt. oil with ae copper springs in the upper outer mount on the carbon shock tower.
1 deg. toe-in
caster and camber? will check tonight
drop not sure and ride hight is 6mm, sway bar at kit setting
35 shore GQ foams
Rear
30 wt. oil with ae green springs inner most hole on carbon shock tower and do not have the extension on the arm.
3 deg. toe-in
2 deg. camber
ride height 5mm
silver sway bar (sofest)
drop ?
use the 2 deg. suspension blocks
extended the wheel base. have a 2mm shim in front of the arm and 5mm shim behind the arm
35 shore GQ foams
hop-ups
LW chassis, carbon shock towers, LW shafts, LW engine mounts, carbon battery cover, ball bearing steering, and acer ceramic nitrade ball bearings.
Engine is an Infinity Katana 512 with RDLogics Turbo II pipe with Sidewinder 30% fuel
I do not have the tools to measure drop so I can not give you that info.
The car had a lot of grip and still needs to be tweaked on. The car is close but it feels like it is missing something and I can not think of it.
If there is any other info you need please feel free to ask
09-19-2005, 12:03 PM
#8816
R40 upgrades For Sale
Hey Guys - If you are looking for some upgrades for your R40...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...35#post1821135
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...35#post1821135
09-19-2005, 12:12 PM
#8817
Originally Posted by wendellc1
Recently I purchased an R40. Compared with my MTX-3 and RRR, it seems to understeer pretty bad. The steering is slow even with a 0.06 sec airtronic steering servo. My setup is similar to Hara's, but with 4mm in front and 4.5mm in the rear for ride height. For the tires, I am currently running 45 in the front and 42 in the rear. Plus I adjusted toe out to 3 on each side. I tried using the 42 in the front, but they were gripping too hard causing the rear to lift. Thanks
09-19-2005, 01:05 PM
#8818
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Your question reminds me. What is the proper way to go about adjusting ride height?
09-19-2005, 03:03 PM
#8820
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Ride Height. But feel free to include adjusting droop. I know for droop, Iam also confused on which areas to adjust for what.
OK AI - somehow I feel like this is a "set-up"
Basically, I don't adjust "droop" per say. I do only two things; ride height and up-travel.
1) With the car sitting on a flat surface I measure the ride height by placing a ride-heigth guage between the chassis and the ground plane (flat surface). I adjust the shock adjusters until proper ride height is acheived (typically 6mm front / 6mm rear). To verify the ride height is "level" I simply measure how far down the shock adjuster is on the shock body on BOTH sides and re-adjust until both left and right shocks are equal (using a caliper). I then re-check once again the ride height. Before I make any ride height measurement I always compress the chassis (using my hand) and let it rebound to it's natural sitting position.
2) Up-travel (rear) - simply raise the rear chassis until the rear tires just start to lift off of the ground. At this point both tires should lift off at the same time. Measure this distance (bottom of chassis plate to ground plane). Subtract this measurent from the ride height and you have "up-travel" distance. A picture might be useful here but I'm kinda short on time now. I usually use a long screw driver coming in from the rear and place it under the chassis and "pry up" to get the chassis to lift upwards.
Oh well - this is my technique but I am not saying it is the best. Good luck! How do you measure ride height?
Last edited by JAG Racing; 09-19-2005 at 05:50 PM.