HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

BTW guys, regardless of the tiny bit of slip I had, the castor on the car was changed and wow. Even for 26mm all around the car is awesome. I'll post my setup in a bit. Too bad you couldnt see the R40s dragging, but it was awesome. I still remember my wedge body sending my friend flying. LOL! TOo funny!

regg151

hey hark why are you running 26mm in the rear? couldn't get 30mm's or is there some other reason?

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I had those on because I was testing it with the new setup I put on the R40. While driving it, my friend could see why I said I had no need for 30mm rear. This car handles! I added more negative castor to the front of the car as well. I left a 2mm spacer in the rear end of the upper arm and put the rest up front. Toe in is -1 for the rear. Right height was about 5mm all around or 6mm rear and 5mm front. Also threw some of the front diff oil into the rear. Just about a big gob did the trick. Everything went great. Even for 40shore the car only slides if you throw try to pitch it sideways. For me it corners better, but that may have to do with the castor, not the tires.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Oh yeah, btw those GRPS on the car are my FIRST pair of foams EVER. That's kinda the reason why I held onto them. I'm finally seeing wear since the RB is in there. The MT12 really didn't do much.

KLANDERMAN

HARK- nice video! too bad for the sound, but the car looks awesome. I wonder how much faster is a 1/8 scale compared to the RB powered IMPACTS 235 that run around with me???

I guess the weight reduction and my driving keep up with them for atleast a couple of laps, but then they start to take off and there is nothing I can do, but wait for a mistake... I got the solid rear diff to try and see if I can get them off the start and keep up after turns...

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Klander-They are close to the speed of 8th onroads, but overall 8ths take the cake. It's hard for sedans to match the 235MM speed even. They just don't have the snappy acceleration as they or the 8th onroads do as well as the HP to climb to speeds faster. Sedan's are fast enough anyway. I'd still like to find a floating rear mount for the R40 so I can get my sedan body to use. You don't need an lola to use the floating rear mount. I found out making one involves much more work than I did, which took me a day and a half (thinking and testing). Pretty much the floating mount DOESNT move at all even if the suspension is compressed. That way downforce isn't effected when running at high speeds. You can adjust the travel on the pivot screw though so at any level of shock compression it will bring the body down reducing downforce and letting the car go a bit faster. When you press on the mount all the force is going right to the hubs and no where else. It's great! I think I'll be definately running onroad for a while. The MGT, TL01, and buggy has to be sold. Btw, here is Ziggy on top of my R40 with blue wheel nutz.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Forgot to mention the 8th was hard to drive without the body. They really do need the body!

KLANDERMAN

HARK- COOL lizard!!! I used to have one too, but it took off and never came back lol... well Ill definately go to the bank and wire some money to towers to get a 1/8 soon... I hope
Talk to you guys later

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

He ran of? LOL. Sry man. Gotta keep em in the cage. This guy doesn't move 2 fast, although they can. He doesn't seem to want to escape. I consider that a very good thing otherwise if he got out, my mom would be scared! Nitro sedan is fun, but 8th is as well. Cost wise they are close and either can be more expensive. For now enjoy racing at the local track with the R40 and think about the 8ths. They need a good track to stretch their legs on. That's where you see a lot of speed especially in cornering.

nsxshogun

Hey hark I hope to have this money before that auction ends.

StoneMan

Some of the graphite parts are eye candy. The battery cover actually weighs more than the stock piece. Our car (my son drives, I s**k at it) is 1770g with the body on compared to over 2000g when it first arrived a year ago
On the steering plate we use the 3Racing graphite plate. I lined the hole with ca and let it dry before installing the bearings. I repeated till the bearings were tight. Loosen off the servo saver nut till the play is almost gone. Use Tamiya wheel spacers on the top of the other post to reduce slop. Use red o-rings under the ball caps on the steering plate side only. DO NOT use on wheel end it will bind your vertical movement.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Me too bro. That's SUCH an awesome deal. Hope you earn it. Best of luck man!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Sounds almost exactly what I found to cause slop. Good that someone on there own track found the same things.

My question is. You say loosen off the servo saver nut? Do you mean just loosen the nut till the play is gone. I would figure tightening it would remove play? Maybe im wrong im not familiar with this type of servo saver.

StoneMan

The servo saver slips over the post as a unit. If the servo saver nut is too loose thenthe unit is long and when you put on the diff cover it will bind. If you tighten it down too much then the unit is shorter and will slide up and down the post and cause a play in your toe.
Hope this helps

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Ah now I understand. Thank you.