kumpol

iTrader: (1)

what weight of R40 should be?

I put everything together minus gas and it ends up right at 1800 grams.
I think it is a bit heavier than my previous car.
Yours?

AMGRacer

I got mine down to 1730 with everything minus fuel. I think a stock 2004 comes in around 1775-1800 with the light battery.

I forget now what I added, I posted it ages ago. But I do have titanium pivotballs, graphite lower front arm blocks, graphite drag plate, graphite side brace. Mayby a few other things as well. Let me know if you need more details.

AlanLim

titanium pivotballs!!!! where did you buy that? interesting

bboytab

iTrader: (2)

Guys, should the rear diff. be fully filled with diff. oil or not? How should I know if I already have the right amount in it? thanks

JAG Racing

Doesnt the manual show using NO rear diff oil? Either way, you can go with or without ( as I have done ). The more oil you have, the more the drag; i.e. less differential action. The amount and weight depends on the drive & feel you are after. One thing for sure, it doesnt need the oil for lubrication purposes(besides a light coating of 3-in-1).

You'll have to dissasamble it to see how much is inside; it usually leaks out anyway if you havent sealed it with the blue permatex yet.

AMGRacer

Mine are the Hara branded ones. Most of the Japanese online shops can get them for you.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Hmm..weird how my front diff is oozing the stock silicone. I'll seal it up. Anyone getting their rides ready for spring racing?

Rapid Roy

Yup!! Racing this Sunday. Can't wait.

JAG Racing

I got one under my belt already using several new upgrade items. Car ran real good but I needed more time to dial my car in better on this small technical track. I need to find out if the new spool front diff was causing what seemed to be lack of steering through the infield portions of the track. In other words, I didnt get the car to go into the corner at relatively fast speeds compared to the other cars. Not sure if this is due to the locked front diff or just some simply tire or droop settings. I'll be experimenting more.

AMG - When you characterized the front spool as ".. loses off-power sterring..". is this at high speeds only?

THanks

AMGRacer

Firstly, I have only run mine on a medium sized concrete track with rubber tires, so I cannot speak for other tires or surfaces. But on this surface my car lost off power steering at all speeds, fast and slow, with the locked front diff. It stands to reason really since the inside tire is dragging and not gripping. I was able to dial out the understeer with some small chassis tuning changes. Here is my setup as it stands for the surface.

rs4lola

AMGRacer
Maybe you could answer this question for me. You have converted your rs4-3ss with the stage d conversion kit. With the engine more in the middle, is the weight distribution more 50/50 or is the weight all on the front. I was thinking that this stage d kit would also make a good short parking lot type racer epscially if you ran a solid axle up front. I saw on the hpi jp website that a solid axle is now available for the rs4-3 cars. I am looking to get the stage d kit but more for racing than actually drifting. With the engine weight on one side and weight of the servos, battery, receiver and fuel tank on the other, it should handle better around a track than the standard rs4-3 even though this kit is primarily for drifting. Any thoughts or am I just wacked???

JAG Racing

AMG - THanks for the setup sheet. BTW, do you run the rear sway bar? I race on concrete as well and I usually run without the rear swaybar. I see your rebound settings are far different from mine. I'll be experimenting a little more on my rebound settings and get back with you.

Thanks,

AMGRacer

Funny you say that I have experimented in the last few days and found out the following:

With the above setting I was running around 50% on steering EPA since it had tons of steering. I removed the rear swaybar and changed EPA to 80% and car became a bit more consistent. I also changed my rear static camber to 0.5 degrees.

My clutch settings are 1.1 on adjuster nut and .4mm float.

I also use the flexible brace with only the bottom 2 screws in the brace.

My tires are Takeoff CS37 with Atsushi Hara Medium inserts and on Tamiya 0 offset dish rims.

AMGRacer

The weight distribution is actually more biased to the front of the car with the conversion, I would suspect that the car would be unbalanced for racing. Put it like this, with moderate throttle application you can get the back end stepped out, which is kind of the point. I cant say for certain, but the car is controllable for its purpose of drifting. It is possible that it would handle well with grippy tires but I have not tested it myself.

If you want I could whack some foam or rubber on and give it a try.

rs4lola

That would great!!! I figure with foams and the mid-engine layout, the handling should be better. The stock rs4-3ss is very rear/tail heavy and biased towards the engine side. Looking at the picture suggets most of the weight is in the middle of the car and therefore handling should be much more controllable which is the first property you want for drifting and racing. How is the accleration and braking when NOT drifting???