straightsixers

You need to use shims as well as o-rings. The shims go on top of the o-rings. for further security use high temp silicone on the o-rings before the shims. i think the measurement for the shims are 5 or 6mm (inner diameter).

happy hunting!

Rapid Roy

You could take the engine, electronics and servos out of your RS4-3 and use them in the R40. You would just need a pipe and header. I would recomend the RD logics turboII one piece unit.

As for being faster, do you mean faster acceleration or top speed. If you are looking for strictly straight line acceleration and top speed, the R40 will be slower in both using the same engine, gearing and electronics. This is because the R40 is much heavier then the RS4-3.

If you are racing on a RC track, then top speed and acceleration arn't as importaint as being able to set up the suspension properly and durability. If you let us know what you intend to do with your new car, then we can give you some decient feedback on what to put in the car.

JAG Racing

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jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know if one can use the mugen mtx3 CENTRIFUGAL SHOE (weights) withe stock r40 centax? I tried to search but not much luck.... anyones input would be appc. Since i have a race this sunday and no hobby shops locally have the stock r40 weight shoes instock but one has the mtx3 CENTRIFUGAL SHOE (weights).

-Also does anyone know what would cause the CENTRIFUGAL SHOEs on the r40 to get stuck in between the flywheel and clutchbel? I was in a race and I had to be pulled off the track because of this....


thanks Jason

JAG Racing

Jason,

There is a good chance they will work if they have similar dimensions (thickness). I would suspect they have the same mass.

To make sure we are talking about the same thing here, the clutch shoe weights (4 pieces) are located between the flywheel and thrust washer. The clutch shoe is located between the thrust washer and the clutch bell. The clutch shoe weights work off of centrifugal force. I don't see how it is physically possible since the spring and spring cup hold the clutch shoe away from the flywheel until enough force is generated to move them. Is it possible that you did not install the srping cup? Sorry, a picture might be helpful.

bboytab

iTrader: (2)

Help, my diff oil keeps leaking through the diff o-ring, its an R40. Is it alright if I use grease instead of diff oil so that it wont leak out? My LHS has no diff o-rings available and also said it still will leak even if I replace with new ones.. Also, will it affect the car's handling?

JAG Racing

Bboy - what type of track do you race at? large open with sweeping turns or tight and technical layout?

bboytab

iTrader: (2)

Yes, large with sweeping turns...asphalt...

JAG Racing

Try going to 80,000 - 100,000 weight in the front ( similar to a one-way but added benefit of braking capability ). This oil is very thick and doesnt leak as easily. BUT, it will still ooz out in a week or so. I assume you don't run diff oil in the rear. But, if you do you can experimnet with different weights.

Using grease - not thick (stick) enough. For the track you described you could stand a one-way in the front. BUt, if you don't have one, just use the 80k - 100k diff oil. I use OFNA diff-lock silicone oil.

As far as the leaks go... try using some gasket sealer from your local auto parts store.

Good luck

bboytab

iTrader: (2)

I have one way on the front.....I still havent tried grease yet... I only removed the diff oil and cleaned the mess it made...ill try that...by the way which is better do you think?, a 3pk or a KO EX-1 Mars R

JAG Racing

I only use a slight bit of grease in the rear diff; mainly b/c I run on a poor traction track. You don't have to use diff oil in the rear. If you don't, you should use a little grease to lubricate the gears. If you do, go with thicker diff oil in the rear, you car will tend to loose some on-power steering due to the posi-lock type rear-end you will be emulating. If traction is high - go for it. \

As far as radios - it's personal preferance on feel to me and ease of menu for all of the settings. I prefer synthesized for the obvious reason even though my JR XS3 menu is not very intuitive. I personally don't care for the looks of the 3PK radio.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Here is my R40. Thought about buying a Sirio outlaw motor for $170 or something else, but others are quite pricey. I'm currently going to try to have my LHS get the RD logics engine since it's pretty sweet and faster than the Sirio. Will invest in some lightweight parts later on for the car.

Rapid Roy

The only way I can think for this to happen is if the gap between the clutch shoes and clutch bell is way too large. Or the clutch nut could have loostened. Not the nut that adjusts the engagement, but the one that holds the flywheel on.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

thanks JAG Racing and rapid boy.

Yes, I am speakign of the 4 pieces, not the clutch shoe is self. I am planning on bringing the clutch with me to the lhs so check things out... Also would an stiffer adjustment spring help with making the clutch engage sooner? The engine is tuned well and is running well..

thanks again Jason...

JAG Racing

There are lots of recent posts on this thread about clutch "issues" you should read. Assuming your clutch is adjusted properly (end play, etc.), a stiffer spring would require more RPMs to engage the clutch; so , it would delay engagement. You might investigate whether your clutch is engaging porperly but slipping. If so, you might change out the clutch shoe to the Mugen grey as previous posts suggest.

I will be trying out the Mugen GREY shoe for the first time this weekend.... should be interesting.