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Old 09-23-2004, 05:33 AM
  #3901  
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those purple rods are off the pro 4....I have the lunsford's on mine.....but I'm going back to stock....

The problem is that with a 4 side nut,you can't get the right anhgle on the wrench with the shock tower in the way.....

the std 5 sided is easier...

BTW,how about that brake set up on my car?......


Don't forget to add the 3mm spacer on the tower.....
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:33 AM
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Originally posted by fastharry
those purple rods are off the pro 4....I have the lunsford's on mine.....but I'm going back to stock....

The problem is that with a 4 side nut,you can't get the right anhgle on the wrench with the shock tower in the way.....

the std 5 sided is easier...

BTW,how about that brake set up on my car?......


Don't forget to add the 3mm spacer on the tower.....
Brake Set-up? Gotta pic?

I have had my brake cam "overdriven" before and I was curious to whether your brake set-up fixes this problem.
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:33 AM
  #3903  
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fastharry......how do you like the adjustable swaybar
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:21 AM
  #3904  
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Default Re: Re: Question

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Stock (US verions) is good to do some local track racing...but still, you will need some upgrade here and there.....
In order for you to upgrade piece by piece and get equal to the 2004 spec from the stock R40 US spec...you might need to spend easily $200 more (over the $250 R40 kits)...

The 2004 spec is around $350 plus 35 shipping from HK....$385...but overall, 2004 spec will get you a BIG RACE ready R40 (very close to HARA's car) and still, about close to $100 cheaper compare to upgrade from stock R40.
Thanks. What do you think are the essential upgrades? I do not want too many hop-ups...it is an expensive car already
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:21 AM
  #3905  
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Default Re: Re: Question

Originally posted by coastaltony
Purple, I have a NEW built never run R40 for sale $175.00
Sorry, I want to build one from the ground up...I still think that is half the fun.
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:55 AM
  #3906  
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Originally posted by fastharry
those purple rods are off the pro 4....I have the lunsford's on mine.....but I'm going back to stock....

The problem is that with a 4 side nut,you can't get the right anhgle on the wrench with the shock tower in the way.....

the std 5 sided is easier...

BTW,how about that brake set up on my car?......


Don't forget to add the 3mm spacer on the tower.....
Brake set-up - Looks good. I am surpised more don't use the "quick-release" brake spring as you have. I like th ball cup attach too ( much easier than the Z-bend rod). Any tricks on brake servo horn or do you use the standard fuel line on the front side of the servo horn? I would like a more "gradual" way to apply brakes. I was thinking of using softer fuel line or maybe a spring on the other side? Any ideas?

Engine swapping - What is the trick to quick engine swap? I don't like to have to keep removing the support brace ( directly in front of carb ) each time a remove the engine. Soon those screw holes will get worn out and the support brace will be less effective. I also have to loosen the 2 rear upper-deck screws so that I can flex the upper-deck upwards. I try to remove the clutch side of engine upwards and then the rear of the engine secondary to pull it out.

Throttle linkage - How about a pic ? My throttle linkage rubs the fuel tank... even when I rotate the carb maximum clockwise and adjust the rotation of the carb attach ball ( whatever they call that ).
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Old 09-23-2004, 02:26 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Question

Originally posted by purplepro3
Thanks. What do you think are the essential upgrades? I do not want too many hop-ups...it is an expensive car already
If you are getting the 2004 spec....no upgrade required.....or I should say, any upgrade OVER the 2004 spec are eye candy or too much money to spend...04 spec is race ready.
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Old 09-23-2004, 02:29 PM
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Originally posted by JAG Racing
Engine swapping - What is the trick to quick engine swap? I don't like to have to keep removing the support brace ( directly in front of carb ) each time a remove the engine. Soon those screw holes will get worn out and the support brace will be less effective. I also have to loosen the 2 rear upper-deck screws so that I can flex the upper-deck upwards. I try to remove the clutch side of engine upwards and then the rear of the engine secondary to pull it out.

There are none...somehow you have to either remove the left upper link, or the right side brace.......I removed them both, it is a pain, but that way, I am sure I can remove the enigne completely.

Do not compare R40 to others like NTC3.........they are 2 different animal, and if you decided to get R40, you just have to deal with the removal issue.
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Old 09-23-2004, 05:47 PM
  #3909  
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Default R40 - Weight Reduction Question

OK - If you were to get only 2 upgrades, what are the best bang for the buck for weight reduction? Seems to me the 5-cell battery pack might be one. I did purchase a so-called light-weight chassis come to find out that the weight is identical to the stock chassis - not a lot of bang for the buck.
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:17 PM
  #3910  
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Default R40 fuel tank

I can only get 67cc of fuel in to this tank is anyone getting
75cc into it?
I cant make a 5 min qualifier
I also installed a large external fuel filter on the car
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:57 PM
  #3911  
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Default Re: R40 - Weight Reduction Question

Originally posted by JAG Racing
OK - If you were to get only 2 upgrades, what are the best bang for the buck for weight reduction? Seems to me the 5-cell battery pack might be one. I did purchase a so-called light-weight chassis come to find out that the weight is identical to the stock chassis - not a lot of bang for the buck.
the chassis is 20g lighter is it hpi or after market, go with the two spd for the other option
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:59 PM
  #3912  
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Default Re: R40 fuel tank

Originally posted by look
I can only get 67cc of fuel in to this tank is anyone getting
75cc into it?
I cant make a 5 min qualifier
I also installed a large external fuel filter on the car
the stock tank is 73cc don't know why your only geting 67cc in it
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:16 PM
  #3913  
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Default Re: Re: R40 fuel tank

Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
the stock tank is 73cc don't know why your only geting 67cc in it

and the new tanks are 75 cc...

HPI has rid themselves of the old tanks....only new ones are being shipped...You can tell the new tank by the raised lip on the top half......
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:29 PM
  #3914  
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here are all the cars I ran at the HPI NY challenge...

I got to tell you....The new 5 meg Canon s500 elph takes some great pictures,right?...







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Old 09-23-2004, 11:57 PM
  #3915  
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Default Re: Re: Re: R40 fuel tank

Originally posted by fastharry
and the new tanks are 75 cc...

HPI has rid themselves of the old tanks....only new ones are being shipped...You can tell the new tank by the raised lip on the top half......
was measrured the amount of fuel it was 67cc a 1/4 inch down from the top of fill port
can you show a pick of the new tank fastharry?
thx
Lou
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