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Old 08-05-2004, 11:16 AM   #3616
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I think the posts being high was actually what is supposed to keep the housing off the shoe, it's just not a very good way of doing it. I noticed my latest clutch bell looks a little different too, a little thinner I think.
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:40 AM   #3617
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
I think the posts being high was actually what is supposed to keep the housing off the shoe, it's just not a very good way of doing it. I noticed my latest clutch bell looks a little different too, a little thinner I think.
I spoke to HPI about it a while back and they said no. They wouldn't make it like that because of the heat/friction and drag that it would create.

I had one post that was rubbing and another that was a bit higher but no rubbing. A few lite taps and the problem was gone.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:32 PM   #3618
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Quote:
Originally posted by treky11
You don't have to dremel the posts. Just take the bell and place on a flat hard surface and hit the post gently with a hammer. they will push back into place.

It seems that on some of the bells the posts are not seated all the way. I had that problem on 1 of my clutch bells too.
I am a little confused here.......I was talking about the 4 posts that mount the flyweight and the clutch shoe are being too long or uneven length........and about the clutch BELL, that does not have posts on it...
Are you saying I should place the FLYWHEEL upside down (posts facing down toward the table or flat surface) and use hammer and tap it a little...?

Thanks....
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:50 PM   #3619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am a little confused here.......I was talking about the 4 posts that mount the flyweight and the clutch shoe are being too long or uneven length........and about the clutch BELL, that does not have posts on it...
Are you saying I should place the FLYWHEEL upside down (posts facing down toward the table or flat surface) and use hammer and tap it a little...?

Thanks....
yes, i meant the flywheel not the bell. i am too tired. i'll edit my post.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:56 PM   #3620
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
I think the posts being high was actually what is supposed to keep the housing off the shoe, it's just not a very good way of doing it. I noticed my latest clutch bell looks a little different too, a little thinner I think.
In the CENTAX world, to keep the clutch bell OFF/AWAY from the clutch shoe, is not using the post......it suppose to seperate them by using 1 of those 0.1mm or 0.3mm little shim like Yokomo, Mugen and Serpent does.....

That, HPI is missing for the whole setup.........but I am sure HPI will have their answer, but so far, they have no respond on that..
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Old 08-05-2004, 03:17 PM   #3621
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Is there any thing I can read on dif oil and what each wt does by going up or down I might try front to see what type of drivind style I have with it
any one
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Old 08-06-2004, 09:52 AM   #3622
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
any one
In TC world.......unless you are using front 1-way, most TC should use THICKER (heavier) diff grease (not oil) at the front vs the rear...
In my R40, I used Mugen 50,000 up front and Yokomo light (like 5,000) at rear.....and I replace the front oil every 6-8 race days (after the front diff used out like 6-8 race days, it will get loosen up)...

In some tight track, ppl even use the Serpent cleaning gum (just a little) inside the front diff and make it like a LSD at front, it has the effect like the SPOOL (solid front axle) for super fast tight cornering but without the snapped or popped out dogbone problem like on using spool.
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:27 AM   #3623
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I actually use the same setup I used on my old Trinity Reflex.

-25,000wt front
-80wt rear

that may seem really light for the rear, but remember that HPI calls for nothing more than diff grease in the rear. So even 80wt oil is a big change from that.

This setup worked for me on the Reflex and its working now on the R40.

As for reading material on the subject, I don't know...
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:23 PM   #3624
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Okay guys. I've been gosting this thread since it started and I finally got me a pair of used r40's. One all hopped up, the other pretty much stock. With enough extra parts to make my head spin. I'm going to go through the cars with a fine tooth comb so I'm familiar with them and get to racing.
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:26 AM   #3625
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Congrats on the purchase! Its a great car in stock or hopped up form.
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:42 PM   #3626
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This is probably the first of many questions.

I have 2 spare stock purple chassies. They both seem to have a slight bend in them towards the front right about where the front diff is. One is bent more then the other.

I seem to remember this being a problem with some of the earlier kits. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. I tried reading from the start of the thread, but didn't have enough time. They have never even been installed.
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Old 08-10-2004, 05:09 PM   #3627
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
This is probably the first of many questions.

I have 2 spare stock purple chassies. They both seem to have a slight bend in them towards the front right about where the front diff is. One is bent more then the other.

I seem to remember this being a problem with some of the earlier kits. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. I tried reading from the start of the thread, but didn't have enough time. They have never even been installed.
The chassis are stamped not milled therefore some will have some small deformations. It is no big deal when the car is together and tightened up the chassis will become flattened.
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Old 08-10-2004, 07:55 PM   #3628
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Thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same thing. Just kept having the thought that I had seen it posted here before. I guess its no biggie. They are spares anyway.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:19 PM   #3629
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Default solid diff

does anyone know how to make the front diff into solid diff? I was thinking about putting j&b weld, in the front diff, to make it a solid.

also, does anyone know where I can find the manual for the HPI Rear Solid Axle Purple R40 pn# 75060. I dont really see how it all works together, with the out drives.

thanks jason

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Old 08-11-2004, 05:26 AM   #3630
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You would be better served by purchasing the front one-way diff...otherwise, you will suffer terrible handling in off-power corners because both wheels will try to spin at the same rate which I believe would induce massive understeer.
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