HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#3406
Someone made a list earlier in this thread, I've modified it a bit:
- Both Hollow shafts #33401 & #33402
- Graphite front and rear shocktowers #73089 & #73090
- Full set of Ti screws (#Z368 for the HPI set, Yokomo also makes machine-thread Ti screws, and you can use aluminum screws in low-stress areas to save some grams)
- Titanium turnbuckles (two 4 x 40mm, two 4-40 x 24mm)
- Super chassis #73924
- Light top deck (#33408, must order from Asia or just remove the receiver box, see below)
- 0.8 module gearbox #87173
- Heat sink engine mount #33405
- Graphite suspension arms (not sure if part # is different, the arms have been updated since initial release - if you have 2 sway bar mounts on the rear arm you have the new arms)
- Titanium pivotballs (#33426 for 2 or #33427 for 8)
- Titanium hingepins (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite steering drag plate (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite lower front suspension mounts (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite side brace #73104 or #73105 (thinner version)
- Lightweight HPI battery (#33410, order from Asia make your own, see below)
- Remove upper battery cover
- Front One-way #75026
- 9550 steering servo, 3003 throttle servo (or any low-profile servos)
- Airtronics (Sanwa) 211 RX or and micro-size receiver
- don't use the aluminum rear brace or upper deck mounts (that's my suggestion)
You can also save 40g by making a battery pack from 5 AAA NiMH batteries in 2 + 3 shape instead of a normal battery pack. Mount in the normal position.
You can also mount the antenna on the upper deck and attach the receiver to the upper deck or main chassis using silicone sealant or fiber strapping tape. This allows you to remove the receiver box.
Use an AMBrc personal transponder instead of a normal hand-out transponder. Instead of the plastic mount, you can use spare Lexan to mount it to the upper deck (might save a few grams if you don't use too much glue to hold it in place) or use silicone windscreen seal to attach it to the lower deck (next to the lightweight battery pack).
- Both Hollow shafts #33401 & #33402
- Graphite front and rear shocktowers #73089 & #73090
- Full set of Ti screws (#Z368 for the HPI set, Yokomo also makes machine-thread Ti screws, and you can use aluminum screws in low-stress areas to save some grams)
- Titanium turnbuckles (two 4 x 40mm, two 4-40 x 24mm)
- Super chassis #73924
- Light top deck (#33408, must order from Asia or just remove the receiver box, see below)
- 0.8 module gearbox #87173
- Heat sink engine mount #33405
- Graphite suspension arms (not sure if part # is different, the arms have been updated since initial release - if you have 2 sway bar mounts on the rear arm you have the new arms)
- Titanium pivotballs (#33426 for 2 or #33427 for 8)
- Titanium hingepins (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite steering drag plate (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite lower front suspension mounts (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite side brace #73104 or #73105 (thinner version)
- Lightweight HPI battery (#33410, order from Asia make your own, see below)
- Remove upper battery cover
- Front One-way #75026
- 9550 steering servo, 3003 throttle servo (or any low-profile servos)
- Airtronics (Sanwa) 211 RX or and micro-size receiver
- don't use the aluminum rear brace or upper deck mounts (that's my suggestion)
You can also save 40g by making a battery pack from 5 AAA NiMH batteries in 2 + 3 shape instead of a normal battery pack. Mount in the normal position.
You can also mount the antenna on the upper deck and attach the receiver to the upper deck or main chassis using silicone sealant or fiber strapping tape. This allows you to remove the receiver box.
Use an AMBrc personal transponder instead of a normal hand-out transponder. Instead of the plastic mount, you can use spare Lexan to mount it to the upper deck (might save a few grams if you don't use too much glue to hold it in place) or use silicone windscreen seal to attach it to the lower deck (next to the lightweight battery pack).
Last edited by Frank McKinney; 07-07-2004 at 05:32 AM.
#3407
Thank you Frank McKinney
#3408
hey pplz
i hav a r40 with the 2004 spec shocks, i was wondering were do the shorter r40 springs go front or rear
thanks
i hav a r40 with the 2004 spec shocks, i was wondering were do the shorter r40 springs go front or rear
thanks
#3409
They're go in the front
#3410
wen i put on front den my shock shaft only has tiny bit out of the shock
thanks
thanks
#3411
I have the same reaction, it's normal, cause when i put the car on the track, the shocks absorbers have good reaction in low or high speed.
#3412
so its normal
#3413
Minus - I've edited the lightweight list with part numbers and a couple of other things
#3414
Yes, the shaft must return slightly in the body of the shock absorber, on the other hand the spring must be well in its site in particular the "cup inferior".
Sorry i don't know the exact technical name of the last word.
Sorry i don't know the exact technical name of the last word.
#3415
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
Minus - I've edited the lightweight list with part numbers and a couple of other things
Minus - I've edited the lightweight list with part numbers and a couple of other things
#3416
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by InitialD
Rookie, sometimes I wonder with all the information you're pumping out, if you really bought and fixed up the 710...
I actually like to know how I could spend USD 150 on the 710 to make it race worthy.
Rookie, sometimes I wonder with all the information you're pumping out, if you really bought and fixed up the 710...
I actually like to know how I could spend USD 150 on the 710 to make it race worthy.
Also....to spend $150 on S710 to get even better.........TOO EASY, you can try add up all the lightweight dogbones, hubs, front diff, upgrade rear tower, upgrade front bumper set, pivot balls...............etc...however, I am sure the stock S710 is good enough, but....what is GOOD ENOUGH...? When the sponcered driver beat you with some of the Serpent options, then you will consider those options are the reason that he beat you....
I know, cause I sells plenty of those parts to the local S710 ppl....and everyweek I have to order the exact same parts over and over and over....
Again, please don't think I am putting the S710 or MTX3 ppl down, I know better then that...........and if I have to put someone down, I will pick cars like Traxxx or Tamiya Grasshopper (LOL).........I just can't see myself to spend 2-3X the price on the Serpent parts compare to the AE or HPI parts...........they are dirt cheap, and since, they just break as easy as Serpent, why would i want to spend more money to support a more expensive car when I am running as good with the NTC3 or R40 just like the Impulse or 705 that I used to race.
Last edited by Rookie Solara; 07-07-2004 at 01:37 PM.
#3417
hey does anyone kno were i can find this or can sum1 find it for me the part no from hpi is 73482
many thanks
many thanks
#3418
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey does anyone kno were i can find this or can sum1 find it for me the part no from hpi is 73482
many thanks
hey does anyone kno were i can find this or can sum1 find it for me the part no from hpi is 73482
many thanks
Tower...........they ship international.
#3419
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
- Graphite suspension arms (not sure if part # is different, the arms have been updated since initial release - if you have 2 sway bar mounts on the rear arm you have the new arms)
- Graphite suspension arms (not sure if part # is different, the arms have been updated since initial release - if you have 2 sway bar mounts on the rear arm you have the new arms)
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
-Graphite steering drag plate (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite lower front suspension mounts (not sure of brand/part #)
-Graphite steering drag plate (not sure of brand/part #)
- Graphite lower front suspension mounts (not sure of brand/part #)
Originally posted by Frank McKinney
- don't use the aluminum rear brace or upper deck mounts (that's my suggestion)
- don't use the aluminum rear brace or upper deck mounts (that's my suggestion)
#3420
dont worry pplz
im gonna buy the alloy r40 linkages its gonna be cheaper in the long run
thanks
im gonna buy the alloy r40 linkages its gonna be cheaper in the long run
thanks