h82crash

On my car, I had to back out on the adj. screws from stock to get it to shift. First, do the test, but mine are out 6-1/2 to 7 turns each. There is no ckick with the shoe clutch but I notice a definite change in engine rpm at the shift, while on the road. It's true that it is very hard to detect with the wheels off the ground.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Just want to add in this information..........to get the 2-speed kicks in, the clutch setting is NOT the only place to check, the engine itself and the needle setting are also important, cause that is the place create RPM, and RPM makes the 2-speed shift....so you must make sure your engine's H/L needle are set correctly.

For almost all the 2-speed I did (except the old HPI finger type 2-speed).........the stock setting of the 2-speed clutch should do the work, like tunning engine, you just have to turn the 2 screws clockwise or counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time, but never more then 1 full turn.

Like AMG said, if nothing really work (or the gear box is too smooth that we cannot tell , ie NTC3 2-speed are also hard to tell it is shifting)........do exactly what AMG said. But for me, when I tried to help someone to set their 2-speed, I will do ONE step further, I actually removed the inner clutch from the 2-speed.....then I will run the car without 2-speed (100% for sure) shifting for several laps (several laps only, otherwise, you will damage the engine).......then you can put the clutch back in and do the stock setting and see how fast the car is going.....I can garantee you can tell the DIFFERENT with and without 2-speed shifting unless the new setting you did is still too tight.... and if you have a friend that has a stop watch, count the point A to point B time of the long straight with and without the clutch settings, and compare the time, you can tell the different on time when your car is running with or without shifting.

Another HARD way to do is............if your engine is NOT shifting, you can tell your engine is getting HOTTER then your normal temp (cause it keep running the 1st gear for good several seconds constantly), run 3 laps at a time and check the temp (of course, I assumed your needle setting is correct).

Last, if you are running some 1HP (ie old HPI enigne), you will never be shifted (but I doubt R40 owner will use engine like that).........or if you use Nova MAX NS12 engine, you might be already shifted when the car is launched....then you must tighten that 2 screws.

Again, take some time and do some observation, sometime 2 men will do a better job then just yourself....

P.S. when you said your car is as fast as the others, I think your 2-speed is shifting alright....you just need to know does your car SHIFT at the point that you want, that, you can only FEEL it....and I doubt the R40 can go as fast as others on only 1st gear, unless the others that running along with you are T-maxxx....

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey I was working on my centax a few weeks ago and notitced a misprint in the R40 manual. On page 36 the manual has the bearings pictured on the left side of the page misprinted when compared to the diagram when using the sg shaft. I dont know if you guys have pointed this out yet, but just wanted to let the fellow R40'ers know.......

thanks J.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Yes, that bearing pic is screwed up in the manual. It was something that had me scratching my head for a moment, but its easily fixable.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Your lucky, around here, the only cars we're getting to run around here is our full sized cars through the snow banks!

Hard to believe that just a few weeks ago I thought I was going to be able to take mine out and run. Now theres frickin' foot of snow in every direction!

OB42TC3

How much do you want to get it to? 1725? Keep in mind most of the other cars that are closer to the minimum weight use the 5-aaa receiver packs, and one ways(G4; 710). The only truly light car is the NTC3. The oneway should be about 25g lighter.

AMGRacer

Yeah it is spooky when it happens. I am using a JP RS12 S1 which pretty much hammers and My adjustment is 4 3/4 turns out and it is shifting pretty much right on my large track. The less power in the motor the easier it is to hear the shift.

AMGRacer

I am not chasing a particular weight, but just noting that it is quite heavy. Even Atushi Hara in an interview I read noted that the car is heavy in stock form.

The weight issue is NOT a huge problem however. The car works darned well even with mine at 1876 right now. Feels as good as my other cars which are 1700-1750g. Don't let the weight be a significant negative, but again racecars should be light.

I actually have the oneway in mine. It is going on a full option diet very soon, will see how light I can get it.

AMGRacer

Question for those longer term R40 owners. I had my Novak XXL crap out on me today for apparently no reason. Anybody had a problem with premature RX failure on their R40? Perhaps the box tranmits too much vibration?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

AMG: I'm a little curious. What equipment are you running on your R40. I noticed the weights that you mentioned earlier for your R40. "1907" stock and "1876" with modifications.

I saw that you were using a XXL, which amazes me that your still up that high in weight. What else are you using in equipment? If you don't mind me asking...

I'm running this:
-KO 2173 steering servo
-Airtronics 94102 throttle servo
-Futaba R113F receiver
-Sirio .12TRP
-Trinity 1100mah reciever pack

The only mods I have on the car right now are the bearing steering set. The full covering of chassis protector I have on the car probably adds a few ounces as well. So as you see, I'm not really running anything lightweight.....yet.

With this setup, my car comes in at 1825g. Which works out to be about 4 pounds. Still a little hefty, but not to bad.

OB42TC3

-Doubt it's the box. Nitro sedans are hard on electronics, you could have broke the crystal or even the ceramic filter internal to the Rx (know by experience).

-the tires add weight too, I think it's .1 oz per mm of diam, per tire. So if you have brand new tires(63) vs race (59) that's 1.6 oz heavier right there. The new ROAR limit it 1725 oz which leaves about 100g or so take off, leaving some margin over the limit for race tire wear. That's only about 3.3 oz. Going to the 5-cell AAA will pretty much take care of that (2.? oz). I need to take mine and weight it, b/c I already put the 5-cell in mine. The front diff also adds .5 oz or more over the one-way.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Anybody got pics of their car mounted up with the 5 cell AAA pack?

icon

personally no matter what nitro car i use, i'll put a small bit of foam strip between the receiver and point of contact with the car or use a very thick double sided foam tape. there will always be vibration even if the receiver box has O-rings to "insulate" it.

Nrctc3

iTrader: (2)

I also had my Novak XXL glitch on my when I had it in the reciever case. So I changed got rid of the reciever box and mounted evrything on the side of my throttle servo and have had no problems. And yes, I did use foam in the reciever box when I had it.

Nrctc3

iTrader: (2)

BTW, I got my R40 down to 1695 without fuel. But I did use some custom things.