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Old 08-03-2009, 07:48 AM   #1366
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wear? remember I set my gear mesh until it grinds but spins freely and then I wear the gears in on the first run. I still get hours of time out of them this way. I don't think the gears have enough of a difference in size to really matter, gear for your engine and work with the rest. My IDM engine will happily pull 17/59 on all but the shortest tracks where I will go to a 60 or 61 with the same 55 or 56 spur, all without changing the gear mesh.
Hi Brian!

I must test it, up to day I only use two sets for my tracks, maybe there is time
for more play with gears

Regards!
m.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:36 AM   #1367
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Exclamation .08 Modular Gear System

Somebody out there correct me if I'm wrong, but, I believe a few years ago that Serpent (gets credit for this), introduced the .08 Moduler gear system which is esentially, the spur and pinion gears of their respective locations (1st pinion/spur OD are the same, 2nd pinion/spur OD as well proportionally, are the same). Therefore, or in other words, it is OK to mix and match gear combos regardless of whether the # of teeth for 1st and 2nd gear ratios = the same #'s. At any rate, I've used various nonconventional combos with no problems, however, setting motor location is very important. I set it tight, then run the car with no load (on the starter box) for a few minuetes, and listen to the transmission, then shut it off, recheck mesh, readjust if necessary.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:51 AM   #1368
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Nice info, I wasn't sure where it started but I know Xray claimed something like that in some of their original marketing and the Kyosho seems to be the same to me or at least it doesn't make enough of a difference to matter. They supposedly vary the pitch of the gears since we have such a large pitch you can go plus or minus enough to get a few teeth and still have the overall diameter the same and still get a reasonable gear mesh. I will admit that my 1st gear pinion wears quite a bit faster than my second but then I only use 2nd gear on two portions of the track otherwise it is free to spin so perhaps that is where the lack of wear comes from.
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:33 AM   #1369
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I have two rrr's wc if anyone is interest in parts or a full roller let me know
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:47 AM   #1370
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OK, question for you all. I have to get a new chassis after I "adjusted" it at the GLC. Which does everyone like better, Evo or Evo 2?
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:53 AM   #1371
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OK, question for you all. I have to get a new chassis after I "adjusted" it at the GLC. Which does everyone like better, Evo or Evo 2?
FYI: Kyosho America has discontinued VZ228 which is the Evo chassis. You very well might be able to still find the chassis, but it is going to get more and more difficult.
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:22 AM   #1372
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FYI: Kyosho America has discontinued VZ228 which is the Evo chassis. You very well might be able to still find the chassis, but it is going to get more and more difficult.
Now that would be a very good reason to get the Evo2 chassis......

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:46 PM   #1373
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Now that would be a very good reason to get the Evo2 chassis......

Thanks
The evo2 chassis has more steering from being more flexible in the front, the RRR's strong point has always been good turn-in which this improves.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:23 AM   #1374
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hey guys

need to get a new battery pack and was going to get a lipo for it and run a regulator.

my question is what size lipo do i need in terms of dimensions, or perhaps some one might have a link to battery that they have that fits for reference.

thanks
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:15 AM   #1375
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hey guys

need to get a new battery pack and was going to get a lipo for it and run a regulator.

my question is what size lipo do i need in terms of dimensions, or perhaps some one might have a link to battery that they have that fits for reference.

thanks
Find a Lipo that measures less than your nimh pack
The NiMH pack is usually 84mm x 29.3mm x 17.1mm
There is a reply a few pages back that lists all lipo packs that
suit the RRR
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:20 AM   #1376
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I have been over the idea of using LiPO in my RRR and have
a question about the chassis.
I have a shimo chassis (no battery tray) and was wondering if it is heavy enough for use with LiPO or should i use my standard chassis and get a Brass
battery tray ?

Thank you
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:40 AM   #1377
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I remember seeing a post about how to get more rear traction on the RRR Evo WC. But I can't find it. I'm suspecting that i have to rebuild the car and go w/ a lighter diff fluid and lay the shocks down a little towards the center of the car.

Any sights with setup sheets for the RRR Evo?
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:50 AM   #1378
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sorry about the noob question but does the evo only use 2mm offset in the rear or all the way around? I was reading only in the rear of the car but was unsure.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:02 AM   #1379
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sorry about the noob question but does the evo only use 2mm offset in the rear or all the way around? I was reading only in the rear of the car but was unsure.
The evo uses 2mm offset only in the rear. If you want to change over to a zero offset (like most other cars use, including the evo2) all you have to do is get shorter rear dogbones and screw in the pillow balls 2mm.
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:12 AM   #1380
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The evo uses 2mm offset only in the rear. If you want to change over to a zero offset (like most other cars use, including the evo2) all you have to do is get shorter rear dogbones and screw in the pillow balls 2mm.
Hey Scott,

Dont you mean longer dogbones and screw the pivot balls out?
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