Mhhhh in my country GT class is not big, but 95% of the cars are OFNAS and NO ONE EVER had been in trouble with the ofna clutch bell, we use .21 and .28 engines, usually x3 on small bearings (nothing special, normal rubber-rubber ones) and thats all ... would like to know why you are having so much trouble on that area man ...

cya !

Well on my first one I had two bearings and some shims, and it let go and took my 2-speed with it, which annoyed the crap out of me because of NO local parts support.. I now have a second one that frankly had a shoddy shape to it up front out of the box(not a perfect circle, but like there was a crease and part of the crease was ever so slightly dog-eared..)

I have about 10 tanks or so on this CB - and brand-new 2-speed from a 2nd kit I happened to have picked up on ebay - with the 3-bearing mod thing, and so far so good.. But I can't afford to lose whole CB's(I lost my whole first CB cuz I had to hammer the remains of the bearings out, and in the process I'm pretty sure I ruined the inside of the front part of the bell) and 2-speeds because of some stupid little bearings.. I love the DM-1 - it's a fun car. But I wish I felt as sure about the CB not letting go and destroying the tranny as I do for ex. in a buggy or truggy... I mean, WHY those little bearings and not normal ones?

If the 3-bearing mod thing holds up great.. But it's still annoying that I have to feel the urge to take the engine out and check the bearings every 4-5 tanks for fear of what, given the no-local-parts-support..., would be a royal PIA - and an expensive one, to order new 2-speed parts and CB's from a different continent all the time...

Once burned, twice shy I guess...

I had the same issue with front ofna clutch bell bearings go out too frequently so I went ahead and use a Kyosho clutch bell (part#VS058) with Kyosho Evolva pinion gears. All I have to do is to put enough spacers between 1st and 2nd pinion gears to ensure good mesh between Ofna spur gears and Kyosho pinion gears. I've been racing VERY HARD with this setup and have ZERO problem. Give it a try and you'll love it.

We did the same thing for the same reasons when we ran the Ofna. In fact, we used the same clutch bell on our Serpent GT at the Nats. Big bearings are a must for reliability.

Doing great! Getting ready for outdoor season. I'm in Jersey. Tell Verano that Jersey is in Jersey:lol: He'll get it!

I run 3 bearings in the OFNA bell for three years now. Never a issue.45min mains whatever. Just have to stay on top of them.

I can't believe your not having bearing problems. Everyone here with the DM has changed the clutchbell for the same bearing problem. I know I did.

Can somebody post a link with exactly what parts I need to run a Kyosho CB or whatever? Thanks..

Clutch bell
http://winnerscirclerc.com/advanced_...fb65f&x=7&y=14

1st gear Pinion
http://winnerscirclerc.com/product_i...oducts_id=3815

2nd gear pinion
http://winnerscirclerc.com/product_i...oducts_id=3818

Thanks! And these parts fit right in, no hassle or mods? Bassman2, what spacers are you talking about exactly? Do you have to shim the outside of the CB or something?

I think I would prefer to stick with stock gearing - 16/20... Can even imagine going up to 17/21.. The straight at the local track is REALLY long....


EDIT - ps, damn, the Kyosho parts are a lot cheaper too....

Got some binding in my front brakes while in neutral! I have about 2mm of play from where the screw secures the brake pads. I have about 4mm of play from the brake linkage ( fuel tubing to brake lever). It looks like the brake disc tilts then get caught on the pads. Has anyone had this problem before? You think the brake disc needs just to be broken in? What are you thoughts on this? It's a DM-1 spec w/ center diff and added front brakes.

not sure on that car, but they little springs that actually go over those screws to push the plates open. You should have a minimal amount of play on there as possible before they touch, or tighten till it just touches, than back of a 1/4 turn or so more. hope this help's. The springs mentioned i used on 1/8 buggy's, i know O'Donnell makes them, and many others, call your lhs and tell him what your looking for, the springs are a must have, i put them in my igt2 as a standard part.

You'll need some brake springs to keep the 2 brake pads apart at neutral. Here is what you'll need:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ator-Springs-8

If you're in a bind ... pen springs cut to size needed will work. :nod:

Now, that's speaking from many years of RC experience right there :nod: Great advise Pit.

Unfortunately I can't remember the part number for those shims that I have on the clutch bell currently (that was about a year ago when I first put them on the clutch bell). However, when you receive the clutch bell and the Evolva pinion gears (several sizes to pick from) then you can do the following:

Put the pinion gears on the clutch bell (not to tighten them completely) then hold the clutch bell assembly against the complete assembled Ofna tranny then you'll see clearly how much gap you'll need between the 1st and 2nd pinion gear based on the spacing between 1st and 2nd spur gear. Then use an old bearing outer shell or some shims (that will fit over the threads on the clutch bell) to create the necessary gap that you need in order to have good mesh between all gears. I hope this makes sense to you.

this OFNA kit is great for shimming your flywheel and clutch as needed to fit correctly.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Bells-Shim-Kit

Brian,

This shim kit will not work for creating "gap" between 1st and 2nd pinion gears. He'll need shims that will have big enough inner diameter to fit over the threads on the clutch bell.

Good luck at the Vegas race buddy :nod:

Anyone know what the kick up on the GT2 chassis is? I sent a few bent chassis home with a guy at work to straighten them but he removed the kick up also. So now I need to find out how many deg. it should be at so he can put it back in the chassis's.

It's fine to bend it back but just to keep in mind stressing the metal at where it bends will make that area weak. You might want to contact Kyosho America directly to find out exactly how many degrees of kick up a GT2 chassis have.

Kyosho 12x18x0.15mm Shim
[KYO96946]

Thank you Jersey for helping Herrsavage. I just can't remember the part number for the shims that he'll need. I hope everything is going well with you :)

Thats cool guys, I knew the Kyosho clutch bell worked on Serpent's GT prototype, but hever knew it could be used in the Ofna too. This should help a lot of DM1S racers around the world. Very cool indeed! :nod:

8 degrees

The blue chassis on these cars are very soft. I would consider the SP chassis kit from Kyosho, KYOR246-3501, if you have the GT2. They are made from 7075 alloy. They made a similar chassis for the GT1 cars, but I'm not sure if they are still available.

The GT2 chassis is 7075. No?

Correct, it's not.

Bill, Do the stock GT2 componets just drop in with this new chassis kit?

I think that the correct part # for the upgrade chassis for the GT2 is KYISW051. Here is the Kyosho Americal link to this chassis.

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ISW051-...se_p_3584.html

I also carry the chassis and it is in stock.

http://winnerscirclerc.com/advanced_...e09ed6&x=0&y=0

Lee

Well what's this then?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...P-Main-Chassis

Lee, I'm sorry but that is incorrect. The chassis in the picture is the stretched version that comes with the ST-RR truck, the description is mis-leading, it's an option for the ST-R truck that stretches the wheel base to the legal limit for that class of racing. KYOIFW155 is the correct part # if you want to use a truck chassis. The original link I posted is for a chassis kit that is a complete drop in by Kyosho for a GT2 length car, including the steering rack components. It's made from good metal just like the truck chassis, not the mystery metal. The biggest difference is the lack of milling to lighten it, but it's already milled for 2 speed clearance and moves the tank forward (a true drop in).
If you use KYISW051, your car will be seriously too long. Compare the part #'s and look at the pictures you will see what I am talking about. :nod:

That is chassis you want unless you have fabrication skills and like to use a dremel or have access to a milling machine. going with the truck chassis will require moving the tank forward also. The truck chassis will also requre a modified ST-RR radio tray and a steering rack from an mp777 or one of the trucks.
The chassis kit is actually a pretty good deal, the new steering rack gives better geometry. To use a cleche, "trust me," I have been down this road! :eek:

You are right. My mistake. The KYISW051 is not for the GT2.

Lee

So this is a direct drop in?When you mention moving the tank and dremeling you are talking about that other truck chassis right?

Thats right, the truck chassis require mods, the Kyosho black chassis kit is a direct drop in. :nod:

One of the few times you have made a mistake! ;) I hope all is well with your family!

Will

Tires and wheels
 

What slicks and wheels are now available? Please post links if possible. Thanks.

Listen to me Triple7"S ! I wouldnt steer ya wrong:sneaky:

As far as slicks, here are some great choices:

http://www.sweepracingusa.com/produc...roducts_id=276

http://www.igthobbies.com/category_s/101.htm

http://ipanemasports.com/gtracingslicks.aspx

http://www.igthobbies.com/category_s/54.htm

http://www.igthobbies.com/category_s/52.htm

http://www.brucknerhobbies.com/image...a%20slicks.jpg

http://www.brucknerhobbies.com/Ipanema.htm

http://winnerscirclerc.com/index.php...7c8436d1d1692f

http://www.leisurehours.com