wingracer

iTrader: (24)

+1 The Mugen box is my favorite regardless of the car.

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

Really I was told to check the Ofna true start 10255 with the big motor. Thanks I think I will buy the Mugen Box 0220 Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Uhg I hate that box. It's big, heavy and doesn't have the power for new super tight onroad motors. Stick with the Mugen.

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

Know that is what I want to hear, The power that I need to start the mugen, I heard that the ofna box has more power then the mugen but I never used any of them, But you answered the ? that I had next what has more power the mugen box or the ofna box Thanks alot bro!!!!!!!!!!!

fulcrum2

Hi guys,

I do have difficulties setting up the brakes of my MRX-4X for one particular track.
The track has a fast open section which requires heavy braking at the end of the straight in order to slow the car down for a carousel. I usually set the brakes up (via EPA of my Futaba 3PK transmitter) to have strong braking effect with minimum skidding of the rear tyres in this braking zone.

After the carousel we have a technical infield with two extremely slow and tight hairpins. The car arrives at the hairpins with medium speed and will slide in the rear after a short distance once I hit the brakes. Because of the fast section prior to the carousel I can´t turn down EPA on the brakes, instead I will simulate ABS pulsing with my index finger (if you know what I mean to avoid lock-up. This helps, but is not consistent from lap to lap.

Any ideas on how to improve braking into the slow hairpins? Is anyone running drag brakes in 1/8th? This could probably help - Strong brakes after the straigth by hitting the lever and light braking with a drag brake set-up for the hairpins...

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Best regards, Stefan

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

Use the end point adjustment for the brake side to limit the throw of the servo arm to a comfortable level. This will change with changing grip and layouts of different tracks etc. Use the knob to compensate for pad wear.

Best regards, Manny

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Options:

1. Reduce brakes for the infield and back off sooner for the one at the end of the straight.

2. Keep the brakes high for the one at the end of the straight and just use a quick stab of the brakes for the infield to help the car rotate.

3. Set-up some drag brake for the infield and use push brake at the end of the straight.

fulcrum2

Thanks a lot for yor feedback Manny and wingracer!

What is the best way to set up drag brakes on the MRX? I figure if I do it via throttle/brake servo trim I will create a lot of dead play on the throttle side as a side effect. Do you know if some of the pros use drag brake in 1/8th? Is this a common technique?

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

I have heard that Burch uses drag brake but I don't know for sure.

As far as setting it up, you need to tighten or loosen the thumb wheel on the brake rod to adjust it. Setting it with trim will result in a huge dead space on throttle. Once it's set, one or two clicks back on the trim for fine tuning in warmup should be ok with out screwing everything up.

mugenize1

iTrader: (-1)

wingracer is correct that is the way I went on my setup,!!!!!!!!!

fulcrum2

Thanks again guys, much appreciated

choisan

iTrader: (6)

has anyone tried to use the evolva's front and rear steering hubs on 4x? the evolva's can set the lower c.g. of the wheel's axles.

Roelof

The wheel axle will always stay in the center of the wheel and so on the same hight.....
I believe you can set the axle also forward/backward changing the wgeelbase, that will do more.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

You could use the Shepherd eccentric uprights. Pietch used them at the worlds.

choisan

iTrader: (6)

i know Piestch used it in the world, but the Shepherd's parts are very expensive. this is why i think of using evolva, i do not know evolva's not the same feature as Shepherd's.