HEYALIGNMENTGUY

Originally posted by Jonathan


guy. (mind if I call you that? )

I sucked. I won the B, bumped up and faced some really fast guys. 6th place. End of story.

If you talk to W.F. I will take 10 sets of zacs 35 (32mm) and 40 fronts. (10 sets total). Have him post an answer here. Thanks. Hey!! You really should come out for the next race. Let's run super tens. yeahhh.. btw...Centax clutches are pretty easy to deal with.

Willie should be checking in from time to time he brought a lap top so he can keep in touch

There is a race this sunday I see I will be Attending, Sure I will bring the Super if a couple others show up with theres it will be funn, just wan't to lay down a good ol fashion whoopin on a 4 stroke any way

Do you live neer by? Wll said you live close to me? Just curios I will do the stocking thing later

HEYALIGNMENTGUY

Originally posted by kevink2
HEYALIGNMENTGUY:
I've got the OS TR in my GRP version and it rocks! A couple of friends who run RB's said it looked liked the TR has a lot of punch out of the corners.

Thanks for the info I am try to decide wich is my next mill.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Isn't Perez sponsored? I remember him telling me he got some sort of partial sponsorship for 1/5th. He runs an FG but so does everyone else...

This was a while ago though.

AMGRacer

Did a quick rollout calculation. Looks like the front is overdriven in stock form. This probably is why my V1R never rolls as freely as my old HPI which is precicely 1:1 front/rear.

kevink2

Ah10, got_speed, and ME-Student:

Yeah SVM is huge, that's what's fun about it . 25-30 second lap times are cool! I know it gets a bit dark at night (it's going to get better), but where else can you drive at night during the week? Revelation's okay, used to hang there about 6 years ago, but it's like driving in a hockey rink. I don't like the barriers lining the whole course, and it's not very challenging driving-wise. SVM is much more like a European style track (or even a full size track) with studder bumps and runoff area. Big plans are underway there, and more lighting will come in. But anyway, what's the schedule like nowadays at Revelation?

Here's a question for everyone:
It seems like a lot of people are breaking V-One R rear shock towers, although it hasn't happened to me yet (I'm running a Square carbon fiber one though). Seems to happen upon rear impact and end-over-end tumbles (oops!). On their behalf, has anyone else had this problem, and if so, is there a cheap fix? I was thinking maybe they should try filling in the gaps of the tower with an epoxy or something, to try to strenthen the whole piece...any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jonathan

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info. yeah... I live in Lafayette. what's the "stocking thing" ??

got_speed?

I have never had that happen to me(rear tower breakage)...but then again I have never had an end-to-end roll.... kevink2 are you running Centax on your V-One??

Ah10

In fact when I was running my MTX2 last week with a few guys, 2 of them were running Reflex, and one guy broke the rear shock tower! I understand totally of what you are asking! One thing I was told, Square and 5 star has some good quality carbon fiber stuff! Also when I get a new carbon fiber item I usually use CA glue and lightly drip the glue onto the piece and cover all the edges of the piece! so the fiber layer wont split or seperate and it will keep them pressed nicely! It works! Also one suggestion for you! shave off excessive area on the rear shock tower! the longer it is the brittler it gets ya know Leveage theory!

AMGRacer

No problem with rear shock tower breakage and I am the king of crash. I can see that it would break easier than some however as there is a lot of leverage on the body mounts. Carbon graphite tower will help but you will rip off you body posts instead, i guess these are cheaper.

kevink2

Yeah I haven't had a problem either, but have run mostly the Square graphite piece. It is very thick with an aluminum standoff. It looks sweet when you sand and seal it with CA. I usually just use a Q-tip. It could be driving that's causing the problem also, but these guys showed me all the broken towers they had, and they all broke in the same spot. Since I didn't need mine, I traded it for some pillow balls, and he broke that tower the next day too! The Five Stars parts are real nice also.

got_speed:
No, no centax yet. I don't think there's an aftermarket one available yet unless you want to modify the car as Manticore explained earlier in this forum somewhere. I do feel my car bog and hesitate a hair, and am trying some glow plug/carb adjustments to see if it's just my tuning. Other than that the car is awesome.

AMGRacer:
That's an interesting point about the rollout differences...hmmm

Manticore

I did have breakage problem with the rear stock shock tower. It was a single hit from a newbie when my V1R stopped inside the pit lane. I choosed Square graphite rear shock tower as it hs the same shock positions as the stock one. Yes the thing is real beefed.

As for the centax, kyosho has made one especially for V1R, which has the similar design as mugen. the mugen has 4 fly weights while kyosho has only 3 flyweight. the flyweights with the kyosho are also lightened.

MtX2ImPuLsEr

Manticore- Do you know the part number to the kyosho v1r centax clutch or can you tell me what you did to use a mugen mtx2 centax on yor v1r
Thanks

Manticore

Just put on the mugen centax !! AMGRacer did that without making any modification to the main chassis. However, it is suggest that you should use the kyosho clutch pinion on to the mugen clutch bell as kyosho pinion is a little bit bigger in diameter. This will avoid stripping of spur gear due to the smaller size of mugen pinion.

MtX2ImPuLsEr

Manticore
So there arent any modifications at all. Like flywheel or clutchbell or spur gears etc. do i still need to purchase the thrust bearing as well.

Thanks

Manticore

the mugen centax kit doesnt come with a trust bearing set. you need to purchase it seperately.

There is no modification at all. if you find the gears alignment is not good, you might need to extend the engine mounting slot on the main chassis farther to the left side to ensure maximum gears contact.