1LikesKyosho VoneR Thread
08-05-2004, 03:13 PM
how much is the RRR at rc champ, I don't won't to e-mail them just to ask the price.
08-05-2004, 04:25 PM
Tech Adept
$260
Originally posted by compaq888
how much is the RRR at rc champ, I don't won't to e-mail them just to ask the price.
how much is the RRR at rc champ, I don't won't to e-mail them just to ask the price.
08-05-2004, 05:37 PM
That's a good price. I will most likely buy it when they stop making the parts for my RR
08-05-2004, 06:50 PM
Considering that most of Kyosho parts come in trees, the time they stop making parts for the RR will be when they release the V-one RRR"R".
I am waiting for a guy I know to get some kits in. He has a hobby shop connection in Japan for FRESH Kawahara tires and anything Kyosho. I can't wait to snatch those hub carriers and slap 'em on my FW. Back to back comparo: FW-05R (w/ the "RRR" hub carriers) VS. V-One RRR.
I am waiting for a guy I know to get some kits in. He has a hobby shop connection in Japan for FRESH Kawahara tires and anything Kyosho. I can't wait to snatch those hub carriers and slap 'em on my FW. Back to back comparo: FW-05R (w/ the "RRR" hub carriers) VS. V-One RRR.
08-05-2004, 11:51 PM
Re: Re: NTC3 Tank Mod on Evo
Originally posted by afm
KID, can you give me the part numbers for the tank and battery tray???
How much did you pay for them, and where did you get them???
AFM
KID, can you give me the part numbers for the tank and battery tray???
How much did you pay for them, and where did you get them???
AFM
I think the battery holder I used was an older model. But it look like the new Serpent one will work too. I'll try to research it more for you. You could actually make a custom one out of carbon fiber which I intend to do later.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=2479
Hope this helps.
08-05-2004, 11:55 PM
Racing4Evo, yeah I can't wait to get some of those rear hubs too.
08-06-2004, 12:01 AM
If the rear arms fit, I'll steal those too. I hope they went to a bigger outside bearing for the hub carriers. The current 6x12 don't seem to last.
08-06-2004, 12:12 AM
Originally posted by jeffreylin
1. Does anyone know if the rear diff setup differs from shaft to belt? I run 10k (stock setup) rear diff with a front one-way on my FW-05R and it works great. However, most of the other guys running MTX-3 and V1 runs 30k rear diff oil. I tried 30k and the car was undriveable (pushes offpower and fishtails on power).
2. How does the TCD gear set work on the V1? I tried it on the FW and the car again is undriveable. It oversteers going into the corner and loose while on power. It's even worse than the 30k rear.
1. Does anyone know if the rear diff setup differs from shaft to belt? I run 10k (stock setup) rear diff with a front one-way on my FW-05R and it works great. However, most of the other guys running MTX-3 and V1 runs 30k rear diff oil. I tried 30k and the car was undriveable (pushes offpower and fishtails on power).
2. How does the TCD gear set work on the V1? I tried it on the FW and the car again is undriveable. It oversteers going into the corner and loose while on power. It's even worse than the 30k rear.
As far as TCD gears go, same think, I went back to the stock gears. They kind of paddle throught the lube more than the stock and this helps keep the rear diff stiffer which works wonders on larger tracks with fast turns. But I got the same handling characteristics from running heavier oil in a stock diff case.
I used to run the Kawahara Neg. Diff in my RR. I seemed to work OK, but I got faster lap times and held better lines with, again, the stock diff case. I think it's down fall was the heavy alum. diff. case. It carried too much weight around the turns, which made my rear end fish a little.
This is all through my own experience in the last 2.5 yr racing the RR and Evo. But in my opinion, save your money for tires.
08-06-2004, 12:16 AM
R4E, I know what you mean. I blew 3 of them in one season. Then I switched them out for Boca bearings.
Let me know if the rear arms are the same length. In the pix I've seen, they still look like the same arms.
Let me know if the rear arms are the same length. In the pix I've seen, they still look like the same arms.
08-06-2004, 12:21 AM
who is the proud owner of a V1RRR yet??
08-06-2004, 12:42 AM
Originally posted by kidDynomite
jeffreylin, I used to run 30k, I switched back to 10K. But I'm running the spool in front so I needed a looser rear. It all depends on your driving style. I switched mine up and like the 10K better. Our track takes a while for traction to set in, so looser is better.
As far as TCD gears go, same think, I went back to the stock gears. They kind of paddle throught the lube more than the stock and this helps keep the rear diff stiffer which works wonders on larger tracks with fast turns. But I got the same handling characteristics from running heavier oil in a stock diff case.
I used to run the Kawahara Neg. Diff in my RR. I seemed to work OK, but I got faster lap times and held better lines with, again, the stock diff case. I think it's down fall was the heavy alum. diff. case. It carried too much weight around the turns, which made my rear end fish a little.
This is all through my own experience in the last 2.5 yr racing the RR and Evo. But in my opinion, save your money for tires.
jeffreylin, I used to run 30k, I switched back to 10K. But I'm running the spool in front so I needed a looser rear. It all depends on your driving style. I switched mine up and like the 10K better. Our track takes a while for traction to set in, so looser is better.
As far as TCD gears go, same think, I went back to the stock gears. They kind of paddle throught the lube more than the stock and this helps keep the rear diff stiffer which works wonders on larger tracks with fast turns. But I got the same handling characteristics from running heavier oil in a stock diff case.
I used to run the Kawahara Neg. Diff in my RR. I seemed to work OK, but I got faster lap times and held better lines with, again, the stock diff case. I think it's down fall was the heavy alum. diff. case. It carried too much weight around the turns, which made my rear end fish a little.
This is all through my own experience in the last 2.5 yr racing the RR and Evo. But in my opinion, save your money for tires.
08-06-2004, 12:53 AM
jeffreylin, you're welcome. Congrats on your RRR. I'm actually planning to get an FW05R soon too. But I can't wait hear more feedback on the RRR.
08-06-2004, 02:01 AM
Tech Initiate
can ne of u guys help me with the setup of my v1rr?ie setup sheets. Thanks
08-06-2004, 03:49 AM
Originally posted by stevev1rr
can ne of u guys help me with the setup of my v1rr?ie setup sheets. Thanks
can ne of u guys help me with the setup of my v1rr?ie setup sheets. Thanks
Go to this thread, it's posted by URL an an attachment.
Good luck!
08-06-2004, 11:26 AM
jeffrey- the internals are the same but one car is a belt driven and the other shaft. The won't work the same. When I first got my FW-05R I tried 100k in the rear because that's what I ran in my Mugen. It was not too pleasant.
The Evolution with 10k will diff out in the corners. You can tell this when you see the car chatter in the turns. Again, I went to 100k for teh Evolution and it was dialed. It's dependent on traction in the end but this is just to give you an idea that you treat the two cars as having nothing in common regarding set up. After all, You don't know what works best till you try it. I
The Evolution with 10k will diff out in the corners. You can tell this when you see the car chatter in the turns. Again, I went to 100k for teh Evolution and it was dialed. It's dependent on traction in the end but this is just to give you an idea that you treat the two cars as having nothing in common regarding set up. After all, You don't know what works best till you try it. I