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Old 04-01-2002, 06:51 PM
  #1591  
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Thumbs up Turnbuckles

Here is the picture I promised to attach.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MTX-2-dscf0055.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2002, 06:55 PM
  #1592  
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sorry, it is not a good picture
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Old 04-01-2002, 07:33 PM
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Ah10- I think you might be right with your tire selection on your set up. I went out today with Sorex 32's f/r and the car pushed (just a little). If I use a harder foam on the front and a softer foam in the rear (like double purple/purple) the car would probably worse. Since I already have purples and double purples I will try it. If it does what I think it will do, push even more, I'll switch the tires. Then I'll get your set up. Tires that is.
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Old 04-01-2002, 11:04 PM
  #1594  
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Originally posted by Isaac
Ah10- I think you might be right with your tire selection on your set up. I went out today with Sorex 32's f/r and the car pushed (just a little). If I use a harder foam on the front and a softer foam in the rear (like double purple/purple) the car would probably worse. Since I already have purples and double purples I will try it. If it does what I think it will do, push even more, I'll switch the tires. Then I'll get your set up. Tires that is.
Different tires compound work with different susp set up too! you will have to play with it to make it exactly the way you want the car beheive!
For example if you want your rear end slide a bit then decrease rear toe, soften front sway bar, stand up the rear shock etc...

So play with it until you find the perfect setting for your taste!
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Old 04-02-2002, 03:42 AM
  #1595  
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Default Brake Drag

Did anyone have a brake drag on their car? Mine the driveline drags, car will not roll on its own. On tracing it down the al brake gear I bought, aftermarket, the pins were .6mm longer than stock and rubber the housing. Sanded and polished these to .1mm less than stock and still a drag. I miked the pins and they are not centered. I had to open the disk up to allow the brake disk to float. Really poor maching.

On a positive note, I got the car running yesterday and after 5 tanks I started getting some good power and handling. Real impressed with the MTX-2. My other car is an HPI super with lots of mods The mugan is worlds better out of the box (prospec). I added the Kawaraha negitive diff and 2 shoe 2 speed. Both work real good!!
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Old 04-02-2002, 06:58 AM
  #1596  
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Post Kawahara Clutch Two Speed Adjustment

Hi All,

Can anyone help me with the adjustments on the Kawahara Clutch 2 speed Adjustment? I have tuned the one on my Serpents before, and thought this one was the same, but no matter what I do, I can't get it to shift into second. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Angel
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Old 04-02-2002, 10:20 AM
  #1597  
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Originally posted by Pepe
Thank you very much guys, but I need the titanium ones.
I am actually using the HPI racer I in the rear. I didn't need to cut anything. It fits perfectly, and I can adjust the camber since it has a hole in it. I'll post a picture when I get home this evening.
Last saturday I broke one of the front ones and i decided to replace for titanium in front and rear, for better looking too
I found that Lunsford makes them but I don't have the exact lenght to order them.
I'll keep you posted
i'm using the rear turnbuckes of an MRX. they're the same diameter, and i have a wide enough wheel width to use it. it looks like the front ones, just shorter.
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Old 04-02-2002, 12:00 PM
  #1598  
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Default Re: Kawahara Clutch Two Speed Adjustment

Originally posted by Adios1
Hi All,

Can anyone help me with the adjustments on the Kawahara Clutch 2 speed Adjustment? I have tuned the one on my Serpents before, and thought this one was the same, but no matter what I do, I can't get it to shift into second. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Angel
I can give you what ah10 gave me and it worked
see attached drawing

Tip paint these screws a different color so that when you look through the hole in the flywheel you know which one to adjust.
The end screws with the springs (labeled 2.6mm)run them down till they touch and then back them out 3.5 turns. The center screws with the balls(4x4mm) run down till they touch. Now with this all installed in the flywheel, adjust the 4x4 ones till the just rub and then backoff 1/4 turn. This should work for you
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MTX-2-kawahara-closeup.jpg  
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Old 04-03-2002, 12:56 AM
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Default MTX-2 SETUP

MTX-2 Lovers!!!

Do you wanna try this kind of setup? (For Medium to Large Tracks)

Front Droop = +1
Rear Droop = +6
Shock Springs for Front = use white mugen springs
Shock Springs for Rear = use the light blue mugen springs
Shock oil 30 or 300 for mugen shock oil
Shock Position F/R = Last hole below the shock tower
Front Toe = 0 deg ~ -1 deg toe in (for better handling on long straights)
Rear toe = -1.5 deg toe in
Front Camber = -1.5 for rubber tyres and -2.5 for Foam tyres
Rear Camber = -1.5 for rubber tyres and -2.5 for foam tyres
Caster = 0 deg but if you want to have more steering try -2 deg
ride height for front = 5mm and for the rear its 4.5mm

Try these setup and give me your feedback on this. for me its kinda good because i've won a lot of races here in manila which is a lot of good racers using Serpent Impulse. In my group we are only 10 Mugen MTX-2 users and more than 30 for Serpent Impulse and 20 for V1R.

Thanks..........

Last edited by SioKoy; 04-03-2002 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 04-03-2002, 04:37 AM
  #1600  
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Default Kawahara Chassis

I am working on installing the Kawahara chassis on the car. This is a great improvement over the stock chassis. All the screw holes are actually fully countersunk. The two on the rear housing are flush with the chassis as this area is beveled up. All other screw sit below the chassis . The sides are beveled and tapered for ground clearance. All the openings are beveled and smooth. The enclosed picture shows the motor cooling opening and the additional maching. Note the maching on the chassis where the fuel tank will sit, around the front belt and a relief around the clutch housing. The kawahara chassis is also 20 grams lighters. I will also bet the Kawahara motor mounts lower the engine in the chassis. This is an improvement over the stock chassis.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MTX-2-chassis4.jpg  
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Old 04-03-2002, 06:03 AM
  #1601  
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Thumbs up

Rc Nitro,
That chassis seem pretty good, and looks nice too.
how much did you pay for?
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Old 04-03-2002, 07:16 AM
  #1602  
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Yo Pepe where do you race?
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Old 04-03-2002, 09:14 AM
  #1603  
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pepe $69 at my lhs DRCW in Va Beach
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Old 04-03-2002, 10:09 AM
  #1604  
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Default Thanks RC Nitro

Thanks Man!

It worked Great!! It's unbelieveable how smooth this two speed shifts! Thanks again!

Angel

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Old 04-03-2002, 01:40 PM
  #1605  
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Originally posted by SioKoy


Actually that kind of setup works using 26 in the front and 32 in the rear. But when your rear tyres are about to worn out well the oversteering will occur.

Regarding the engine.... never test the compression when its dry it will damage your piston sleeve and thats a very expensive part of our engines. Try testing your compression with an after run oil inside your engine
Yeah i'm using elligi 42 shore (26mm) up front and yokomo medium firm (32mm) in the rear. I have the opposite problem now. My car doesn't fishtail all over the track now, I understeer. Oh man tires are expensive. Guess i can wait till they start to wear out...
How do you do a compression test on the engine. I've noticed that it's a lot easier to turn over now then when it was new. It's been tuned a lot, and now runs at 235-245F. It's nice and quick now (Thanks AH10)... but i'm noticing that other people are still passing on the straights. Guess i should upgrade when i finally learn to drive.

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