Serpentd

Don't know what was said here with all the editing. But yes, ALL cars are awesome but the MOTONICA is the BEST. THE BEST THE BEST THE BEST!!!! And yes, I have a VERY biased opinion. But the cool thing is that I get too! So like I said, MOTONICA RULES!! If you don't have one, you NEED one!!!

Garen bro, I will talk to you soon bro (tomorrow). Great job this last race!! Sorry I wasn't able to make it out. Next time my friend.

Serpentd

Dude, I see what you mean by "tight" fit on the battery tray. Woah!

Killer pics bro!! The car looks VERY nice and almost ready to RUMBLE!!! Great job ESWLFSE!!!!

ESWLFSE

iTrader: (7)

Thanks I'm VERY excited to drive again once I escape this arctic cold and snow.

More build questions:

I know Garen mentioned not using the upstops in his tips but why not? Couldn't you set them to limit up travel to just before or at chassis scrape to eliminate or at least minimize chassis plate damage like that shown in Garen's pics? Travel will stop when the chassis bottoms anyway...

If the PT works just double-sided taped to the upper plate why not run it that way and skip any side mount? Are these typically plugged into the spare RX channel or do you splice in a pigtail off the battery lead?

Whats the best method to align the swaybars and especially the front? Obviously I tried to align the ball to fit into the cup as accurately as possibly with the suspension on the downstops but even after that it still seemed like I could lift one wheel a little farther than the other before the sway bar pulled up the opposite wheel (shocks off) so I tweaked the adjustment set screws a bit.

The rear was even more difficult. Turning the turnbuckles installed is nearly impossible as is accessing the lower link screws with the driveshafts in or popping on/off the upper. One of my bars seemed to have a slight curve that needed to be compensated for by lengthening one link - and the right one was easier to remove and adjust - but I basically used that same method in back by lifting the suspension while measuring with the ride height gauge to see how far it had to move before the other side came along.

There has to be a better way?

What are you all running for roll center shims? I have front 2mm top and bottom (I thought I read somewhere to start with no shims on the front top?) and in the rear I have 2mm top and 1mm bottom.

ocktoberfest00

very nice pics....seems like the build is pretty easy,not diffucult...

ESWLFSE

iTrader: (7)

The build itself was very straightforward and enjoyable and would be for any experienced RC car modeler. My only problems were with understanding a few chassis and setup issues mostly due to the fact that I haven't owned a 1:8 car in well over 10 years. Order up!

garen

iTrader: (7)

Thanks I'm VERY excited to drive again once I escape this arctic cold and snow.

More build questions:

I know Garen mentioned not using the upstops in his tips but why not? Couldn't you set them to limit up travel to just before or at chassis scrape to eliminate or at least minimize chassis plate damage like that shown in Garen's pics? Travel will stop when the chassis bottoms anyway...

UPSTOP SCREWS CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD. THEY CAN UPSET THE CAR THROUGH THE BUMPS OR WHEN THE CAR IS LEANING IN HIGH SPEED CORNERS. OF COURSE YOU CAN USE THEM, BUT I CHOOSE NOT TO. IF YOU DO USE THEM, MAKE SURE THEY ARE ADJUSTED EQUALLY LEFT AND RIGHT.



If the PT works just double-sided taped to the upper plate why not run it that way and skip any side mount? Are these typically plugged into the spare RX channel or do you splice in a pigtail off the battery lead?

PT IS NORMALLY PLUGGED INTO CHANNEL 3 OR AUX CHANNEL ON A RECEIVER. I LIKE MOUNTING ON THE SIDE FOR 2 REASONS. FIRST IT ALLOWS ALL WIRES TO BE HIDDEN FOR A CLEAN LOOK. SECOND, IT MAKES IT MUCH EASIER TO WORK ON THE CAR SINCE YOU DO NOT NEED TO UNPLUG IT OR REMOVE IT WHEN YOU TAKE THE TOP TRAY OFF.


Whats the best method to align the swaybars and especially the front? Obviously I tried to align the ball to fit into the cup as accurately as possibly with the suspension on the downstops but even after that it still seemed like I could lift one wheel a little farther than the other before the sway bar pulled up the opposite wheel (shocks off) so I tweaked the adjustment set screws a bit.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE MANUAL, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT TRACK ALREADY. ONE SUGGESTION IS TO KEEP AN EYE OUT ON THE BLADES AND MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH THE CHASSIS WHEN YOU COMPRESS THE SUSPENSION. IF THEY DO, LOOSEN THE TOP SET SCREWS AND TIGHTEN THE BOTTOM SET SCREWS TO RAISE THE BLADES INSIDES THE PLASTIC HOUSING.

The rear was even more difficult. Turning the turnbuckles installed is nearly impossible as is accessing the lower link screws with the driveshafts in or popping on/off the upper. One of my bars seemed to have a slight curve that needed to be compensated for by lengthening one link - and the right one was easier to remove and adjust - but I basically used that same method in back by lifting the suspension while measuring with the ride height gauge to see how far it had to move before the other side came along.

There has to be a better way?

YOU CAN ACCESS THE LOWER LINK 2MM SCREW FROM THE FRONT WITH A 2MM BALL TIP WRENCH. TURNING THE TURNBUCKLE IS EASY WITH A PIECE OF PIANO WIRE BENT AT THE TIP OR USE A CHEAP SMALL SIZE ALLEN WRENCH (L WRENCH). NEITHER BLADE SHOULD BE BENT OR CURVED. MAKE SURE THE CENTER BAR THAT THE SWAY BAR ATTACHES TO CAN ROTATE FREELY, BUT NOT HAVE SIDE TO SIDE PLAY.


What are you all running for roll center shims? I have front 2mm top and bottom (I thought I read somewhere to start with no shims on the front top?) and in the rear I have 2mm top and 1mm bottom.

CHECK OUT THE SETUP SHEETS POSTED ON THIS THREAD. THE MANUAL SUGGESTS 2MM ON ALL THE ARMS. THIS WILL LIKELY MAKE YOUR CAR HAVE TOO MUCH REAR GRIP AND NOT ENOUGH STEERING (DEPENDING ON THE TRACK YOU RUN ON AND THE AMOUNT OF TRACTION COMPOUND APPLIED). REMOVING SHIMS FROM THE ARMS RAISES THE ROLL CENTER ON THAT SIDE OF THE CAR, ADDING SHIMS LOWERS THE ROLL CENTER.

ESWLFSE

iTrader: (7)

The Vegas setup sheet shows the tire size as 72mm. Is that correct?

garen

iTrader: (7)

yes correct.

Serpentd

I would only start at 72mm for qualifiying rounds on a track like the Vegas track that doesn't have much tire wear. So yes, 72 is correct. I personally start at around 74mm with a 7mm split. So the fronts would be 67mm. Sort of depends on your track but 72mm is the ideal size for speed, handleing and acceleration. But if your track eats up tires sort of quick, then adjust accordingly. For or now I would just start at 74mm. You can always remove more, but can never add. It also depends on if your setting your car up for a main or a qualifier. You definitely need more tire for a main of coarse. If you know for sure that where your going to run has little tire wear, then I would set up with 72mm. If your not sure stick with 74. I hope this helps some, I didn't mean to sound redundent.

garen

iTrader: (7)

The steering servo wire lead does not route like shown in your photo. It goes into the groove in the radio tray and the upper plate butts up against it. Look of the photos of my car...you won't see any wires except the male and female battery leads

ESWLFSE

iTrader: (7)

They're just laying there in the photo, but I had since finished the receiver install and missed that anyway. No problem, the whole radio was back out in 2 minutes and the wire is rerouted. Thanks again!

This car never ceases to amaze me. I wonder who designed it?

The build is now complete and the radio is set up minus any advanced functions. All I have is the obvious - rate and brake travel on the thumbwheels. What if any of the advanced functions do most people use in 1:8 on-road?

I also can't believe I need to add over 8 ounces of ballast to this car.

garen

iTrader: (7)

servo reverse, sub trim, end points, trim, and then adjust the rate control (ARC) on Airtronics radios for both steering and throttle/brake as needed, otherwise leave them both at 0.

did you weigh your car with a painted body?

ESWLFSE

iTrader: (7)

OK so no slowing down servos, ABS etc. is used then.

I have a painted body here for my 950R that weighs 7.3. Forgot the body. Almost there now eh?

I found one front wheel that doesn't spin true on the car. Its true on the truer, but wobbles slightly no matter which side of the car it is on. Ever experienced this? All my other wheels seem fine.

Serpentd

Dude, I'm not 100% sure why it will sometimes wobble, but I know what your saying. Yes I have experienced it as well. I never had this issue with Serpent style wheels, but noticed it with the Mugen style that is used on the Motonica. I personally think that it has something to do with the diameter of the hole being too snug. If it was reamed out properly (they actually make a specific reamer for these wheels) then I think it would solve the problem. Like I said, not 100% sure, but this is where I would start. I'll let you know if I figure it out because I have noticed it as well. It's not the car I can tell you that much. At least I don't think it is. It has something to do with the wheels. It's been weeks since I even touched my car because of personal crap, so I haven't had a chance to narrow that one down. Let me/us know if you figure it out as well. Later bro!

garen

iTrader: (7)

To further answer the upstop question, here's one more reason why not to use them. I started the main the other day with 77mm rear left and 69mm front left tires. The tires now measure 68.5mm and 59.8mm. Had I set the upstops to prevent the car from bottoming out with the tires at full size, they would be non-functional when the tires got to 63 or 62mm in size.

By the way, you gotta love the which car is better thread...the same guy was on this thread a couple of months ago claiming the P8.0R finished last at the worlds....