bobbyblaze

iTrader: (1)

hey thanks for the information

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Thats a good tip Billy is fast, so if it works for him, you know its good advice, I have yet to get bad advice from him on my cars

Thanks Billy

wallyedmonds

i dont have that problem, maybe im doing something wrong
but really i think for most a steel rear shaft is best.
i do change my 1st and 2nd gear holders often.
the bearings get wobbly

nitro rat

iTrader: (5)

how long did it take you guys to build your mtx4 r?
Ive got one on its way

wallyedmonds

well now i can do it in one night but when i did not know the car good about 3 nights
just take you time and have fun.
understand all the parts and how it gos together.

YLLIB

iTrader: (1)

Sorry pushed the button twice...

YLLIB

iTrader: (1)

I hope this works for the guys that e-mailed me. Track SpeedWorld TESTED on both conditions - smooth, tight, high traction w/ VHT and clean no spray asphalt.

Front End:
198mm width
4mm ride height
2 deg camber angle
2mm upper arm spacer
.5 toe out
1mm rebound stop
no bump stop
use to138 steering blocks w/1mm spacer on steering arm
front sway bar flat

Rear End:
199mm wisth
5mm ride height
5 camber angle
1.5 toe angle
3mm rebound stop
no bump stop
lower arm position
2mm upright spacer
2.5 wire roll bar
3mm in on wire sway bar ball
0 wheel hub spacer
use to144 mounted on lower hole

Frt Shock
stock piston
600 mugen oil
springs light blue
middle postion shock mounted

Rear Shock
stock piston
600 mugen oil
springs light blue
3rd from the bottom shock mounted

Front - One way

Steering Ackerman -- A

Rear Diff -- 50,000

Tires 40 front and 40 rear ----- I use Jaco

Body - Protoform Stratus and stock wing

Good Luck Billy

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

AKA

THE BOMB Awesome set up

nitro rat

iTrader: (5)

people at my club are having trouble with 2nd gear blowing up....... any reasons why?

Slo-MTX4

iTrader: (1)

Yep plenty......I will be up there in 2 weeks so if you get in contact with Braz or brett i can show you all

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

Wow, you must be rich! At $33 a pop, that's a huge waste of money. I ran the ones that came wih the car for a full season with no issues. And I plan on re-using them next year.

Any new guys out there reading this, I don't think i'd take this guy Wally's advice. Unless you're rich like he is.

YLLIB

iTrader: (1)

Hello NitroRat, Buy the 4mm chassis and that will solve 99% of the gear problem. I had the same problem, I blew 16 gears in 3 weeks and never had a gear problen the first 3 times out with the car. I tried making sure the engine was square and read everything about how to fix the gear problem on the KB - MUGEN web site when it started and non of those ideas worked. the 3mm chassis does flex a ton sideways and foward to back in the engine area even with that brace. I then bought the 4 mm chassis and the problem was cured. I have gone through two gears since, but those were my fault being in a hurry and making sure the engine was not perfectly square,, which is very important I asked Mugen that I think that they should raise the price about $10 and just stick the 4mm chassis in the kit and problem solved. That is the ONLY problem with the intire car. I have talk, helped and watched a lot of racers go through gears and some racers not go through gears, but I feel that every driver is faster than some and the problem is in general is the more experience drivers are having the problem were the more newer racer is not. I don not know if the newer racer is on the throttle as much, harder or earlier and that is the difference. I am not in any means trying to separate driver’s ability or say one person is better, it’s just that I own an on-road track and I always am helping the racers at our track and that is what I have experienced. Also the gear problem has not started it seems for a few races until the chassis seems to get a little broke in, it sounds funny but maybe the chassis gets weak even since it is made from alum. after a 3 or so races. I have not seen a gear problems on the car when it has been new, only after a handful of races or less like I mentioned.

wallyedmonds

just when they get wobbly,some last longer than others.
and why is it that i dont have a problem with a ti rear shaft like others do and come to think of it why dont i strip 2nd gears like alot of ppl do.
dose anyone oil there bearings in there gear holders.
the oneways dont last forever,there could be a prob and you dont even know it.
but dont take my advice,
but i do have a good peace of advice and that is dont live in the usa unless you are rich cuz if you get sick you will die.
have a nice day.

and yes get a 4mm chassis,the 3mm is just not good enough.

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

I get sick sometimes and i'm not dead nor am I rich like you. I merely wanted the noobies out there to realize your wealth of knowledge might not be accurate is all. And you bring up universal health care on a rc forum? usa vs. can.?

Once again, new racers out there, Listen Up! Wally has no clue what he's talking about. Do Not take his advice no matter what it is. That is all.

slot99

yllib, Thanks for the advice, I have seen it at our local track also. I will buy one this week because gears are almost the price off the chassis at this time.