The rear shaft is 60mm and the front shaft is 55mm.

All product documentation can be found here: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ame=XRAY%20NT1

Yeah it counldn't have been that the X-ray fit his driving style better.

I'm the one that said this.... And the results are results... The RRR Evo WE was built by Ron Atomic, and setup by him... It gets completely taken a part and checked over after every race... So think what you want...

I also gave the NT1 to Toastie to drive, we made many changes per his driving style and because of the track layout and it got faster every time... The reason I did not race it, I did not have gear mesh set correctly and I did not have a spare 54 gear.

So I do not what to tell ya...

I lost my front dogbones in a hard crash against a sidewall while being on trottle! Although i lost a dogbone, the car was fine (which amazed me!). CVD's will be a solution to this. Since i will run CVD's anyway it's not a problem for me..


Only think i notice wearing on the car is the pins in the dogbones, but the pins are cheap and can be replaced easy. It's way more important that the outdrivers don't wear for me!
Gears are also nice, this also has to do with the engine mount, once the gears are set properly they won't change when you take the engine out... i'm very happy with all of that!

I will be the first to admit if it will be the case....

BUT again, your car wears out, and gets slower, but you yourself will improve your driving skills, so you will get faster... so your laptimes will not improve, UNTIL you move forward to a new car.... maybe I should just buy a brand new 950R, to backup my opinion... :sneaky:

No, you said you where even 1 second faster... :D
But as stated by Joe:
Indeed maybe it suits your driving style better....

who cares, as long as you are happy, that is what is important.....

Hey,you guys using stock kit springs,or something else?..If not, then what seems to work...

mugen front uprights can be used with front mugen cvd's

you need to use the whole mugen upright , bearings , cvd and pivot balls , pivot ball adjusters .

mugen pivot balls are smaller diameter than xray but the threads are the same

the standard mugen upright have indentical geometry to the xray , same king pin inclination ect ect
then i tried the mugen 136b upright with 1mm spacer under the tie rod and it seem to cure the very slight amount of bump steer that the xray has.

lest night i took a mugen upright and an xray upright to my friends shop that does destrctive testing and we intentionally broke both uprights .on a special press that measures stress loads

the xray would snap and shatter where the mugen plastic would stretch and deform before breaking
the mugen upright took a slightly higher force to break than the xray , so if you find yourself in a pinch without parts the mugen upright can used as long as you use the mugen pivot balls , bearings , cvd's and pivot ball adjusters

cheers

Was the pressure applied slowly or at once (like impact)?

Problem with mugen uprights is that pillow balls like to pop out of them if you touch the board in certain way (maybe due to smaller diameter pillow balls, now that you mentioned it). I've seen couple of guys with this problem this past sunday... I really don't see how the dog bones can come out if you have the right track width, O rings installed and some reasonable dual rate dialed in. I'm not saying it can't happen, I haven't run my car yet, but you'd need to hit something really hard and the upright would have to come out of pillow balls a little to loose a dog bone.
Anyway, car looks really great, easy to put together, awesome craftsmanship from xray, as always. Need to install my electronics and I'm ready to throw it on the track...

Bvoltz is a buddy of mine and he just pointed out something that many have said about switching to the latest vehicle. I know Toastie and he is a fantastic driver (can drive the wheels off any vehicle). Bvoltz stated that he had to change the setup for Toastie's driving style in order for him to improve getting around the track faster. So, to take Bvoltz own words, he could accomplish the same feat of improving lap times if he changes the setup to his Kyosho to suit his driving style. This would have made purchasing the NT1 unnecessary.

Fellas, I am not knocking the car and may get one to add to my racing arsenal. I like the way Hudy meshed the best qualities from the three current cars into one package. I know the fit and finish is probably superb (built a Xray MT18 last month and loved how parts fit without sanding or grinding). All I am saying is don't jump on the bandwagon because you think that this car will make you a better driver; that is where hours of practice will get you. Get it because you just want to get the car and if you notice an increase in lap times and finishes, then that is just an added bonus. Just my $0.02

Well said. :nod:

I agree.. I think it is matter of fitting a driving style issue more the anything... I do love both cars the RRR and NT1, I'm a little new to the Nitro side of racing, and learning more each and every weekend out. It is a little funny here in Jackson, everyone thinks that they need a purchase a better engine to win... or beat me :D I feel that it is in the order, the driver, then setup, then engine. My point if you can not drive, or tune the setup, no engine will help, because you can not take advantage of power to the ground with out a setup in the ball park.

There are known issues with the RRR is a the rear end of the car, but that can be corrected with some thinking and modifications to the car. I would like to see if the NT1 has resolved some of this. My RRR is dailed, it is on rails on at the track we run at... (Just ask Baylock... I'm not the fast on the track, I just have been lucky with making it though the main with out any issues, both in the car, and avoliding the near hits... I look like this on the drive stand :eek: ) I wanted another car and I'm planning on running the ROAR Nationals this year. I have no chance of winning, and I really do not care about that. I want to get out meet some of you fine folks and see what I can do... my best is all I'm looking for, and if that is last place, I'm fine with that. I really enjoy the R/C group and I really enjoy racing these toy cars... That is what is most important to me... :nod:

I also enjoy reading the different views and the sharing of information that happens here on RC Tech. :cool:

Thanks Barry, I could not agree more. From what I saw of the car as far as practice runs in the hands of good drivers (the Beachamps and you), the car looks to be an awesome package. This is especially true if mated to the right engine/pipe combination. For all of the guys that bought the car, good luck with finding a set-up that will enhance your driving skills and possibly improve your finishes at whatever race(s) that you participate. For those that bought the car thinking it will make you better, don't badmouth it when you notice that you still finish low in qualifiers and are back in C to F mains at big races. Nothing can substitute for practice, practice, and more practice; even with a car of this caliber.

OK, an honest build review of the NT1, Part-1 will be online at 3hobby.net in a few minutes. I'm fixing up some spelling errors and my poor grammar. :D

Thanks for the build review. I really enjoyed your comments. Looking forward to the next installment.

Where is the article on 3hobby.net? Here:
Reference->Content->Product Reviews->Bottom of the list


BTW Slow... What does your economically disadvantaged grandmother have to do with your NT1 build?? I'm just kidding! :D