Check the travel on the servo. Make sure when under full throttle the motor is not being pulled.

Feel your 2nd gear hub bearing and make sure it's still smooth, the only engine mounts screws you have to locktite are the the ones below the chassis and the screws that hold the upper piece of the mount to the main mount. Also if your pinion teeth are sharp or worn it's easier to strip gears. What gearing are you using?

So, to sum up what everyone has said:

1) Make sure the EPA of the servo isn't pulling the motor.
2) Replace the bearing of the main shaft and the clutch.
3) Check the bearings of the 2 speed housing.
4) Check the rotational play in the 2 speed clutch shoe adapter. Should be close to none.
5) Remove the chassis completely, and place it on a flat surface and see if its bent (left-to-right or front-to-back or both).
6) Make sure you aren't using a big split in pinion/spur.
7) Replace the pinion gear if they are sharp or worn out.
8) If everything else fails, replace the bulkheads. Unless the bulkheads are old, then I'd suggest you replace the bulkheads anyways.

Stripping 2nd
 

Smear a fine film of CA around the 2 speed shaft bearings and encourage them into the housing. We did 4 sets one afternoon and found the bearing was moving allowing the mesh to wander. Replace the housings and glue the bearings in for a permanant fix. Not had a problem since, even using the original skinny 2nds.
PS RC

CSO 20T Brake Disc holder

CA near a bearing??? That's a no-no in my book.

Use Loctite Bearing retainer instead:

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=0000000HZN

I use this on all my bearings besides the wheel and engine bearings.
If you place bearings into a metal part it's a must to use this, greatly increases bearing life.

THX FOR ALL THE INFO GUYS . I TRULY APPRETIATE IT!!!!! I WILL START ON THIS LIST OVER THE WEEKEND ,SO I CAN HAVE MY RIDE READY FOR THE U.S. OPEN AT THE FAMOUS KRACEWAY IN KISS,FLORIDA......CANT BE HALF WAY THROUGH THE MAIN STRIPPING GEARS ..

THANKS TO ALL ONCE AGAIN ........................................

Not to be all in NT1 business, because I run a Shepherd, but I was having the same prob with the 2nd speed housing moving bck n forth because of the bearing, I glued it also "oops" but no prob since!!

2nd gear stripping
 

I stripped 3 second gears this weekend, 1 in pratice, 1 in a qual, and 1 in a 25 min main with 6min left to go in the race. The 1st two were 54 teeth, the second was a 55 teeth gear. Any suggestions would help, thanks. :spidey:

Check bearings in the two speed, check the place where the two speed shaft and the one way bearing touch on the shaft. ALSO make sure your not running a split over 5 for the pinions. If you start trying to run an 18 tooth pinion with a 21 tooth second gear you will strip them every time. I check gear mesh of second with first gear not installed. then slide on first (spur) and check first separately. They should be as tight as possible while still spinning free. Hope that makes sense. also make sure your tightening the engine mount screws and using blue loctite. After all that check to make sure your chassis is straight. If its bent that will change gear mesh max/min. Also check and make sure your chassis isn't bent, if it is bowed that could affect gear mesh also. If you used to much loctite and it built up on the engine mount screws then clean it off to get a large adjustment range.

I can say I have never stripped an NT1 spur gear. I ran one set of gears for about 4 hours before I changed them just because. Also if you have a worn pinion gear that will wear out your spur gears prematurely.

Thanks I had one of the team the team drivers from xray Paul L. set the mesh after the frist time and I have new gears on there. I'll check the other things you said. Thanks.

Yeah, if paul set the mesh then you have something else going on. Change your clutch bell bearings too.

Remove your chassis completely from the car... and lay upside-down on a flat surface... Make sure it isn't bent at any place...

Check your clutch gap...

ok thanks