Originally Posted by epowr_Racing (Post 7280251)

Just wanted to share some pics of my NT1 2010 , hopefully can get it on the track this weekend.

Originally Posted by nitrobeast (Post 7279431)

Jammin Jeff on the xray!!!

Originally Posted by spurcheck (Post 7287193)

Yo Rui,
yep, I finally took the plunge. I am about 2 seasons overdue. I know it is the right decision. Lots of support locally for the NT1. Not sure if the car will be together for the charity event but down the road for sure.

Here is a question, what is the part # and name of the "gizzmo's" that prevent the body from tucking at the back?

Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 7287262)

xray part number 331340

Originally Posted by rx7ttlm (Post 7287262)

you can use some m3 (hole size) body posts or you can run the xray part number 331340

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid (Post 7288812)

what he said.

Originally Posted by spurcheck (Post 7299167)

Thank you for your response. Also a nice touch with the alternative "body post" suggestion.

Originally Posted by mrgsr (Post 7299407)

capricorn diff gears:

is anyone else using them? how are they holding up?
i just removed the lightweight locker from my car and was hoping to shave some weight from teh diffs using these gears.

who sells them in the US ?

Originally Posted by Mike 78 (Post 7299459)

Hi John,

Joe @ JPM Racing is the Capricorn agent in Australia give him a call he will happily sell them to you. From my understanding he is retailing all the Capricorn gear. Drop him an email.

Cheers Michael.

Originally Posted by mrgsr (Post 7299407)

capricorn diff gears:

is anyone else using them? how are they holding up?
i just removed the lightweight locker from my car and was hoping to shave some weight from teh diffs using these gears.

who sells them in the US ?

Originally Posted by D-nicest (Post 7275373)

On my car I have about 4.5mm in spacing in between the graphite on the plates with the stock disk being used. You need to leave some excess space because 1) as the metal on the disk heats up it expands, and 2) the disk doesn't spin perfectly true and may rub up on the pads if they are too close causing more friction=heat. Also, although the KM's have worked great for me, having graphite for the plates decreases the area for the heat to dissipate, so the Disk tends to take more heat. So I'm guessing you may need to back out on the screws some to get rid of your issue. Hopefully that helps.

Originally Posted by Riketsu (Post 7303666)

Diatta, thanks alot for the advice! Last race meet I was able to keep the same brake power throughout the entire day...

I believe it was because I left a bigger gap between brake pads and the contact point between the post and the brakepads was not when the brake arm was perpendicular to the front-to-back. (Hope that made sense).

Originally Posted by HarKonnenD (Post 7304985)

D-nicest - Hey man how's the Xray running for you? What do you think of the Spec 09 version?