Originally Posted by TomB (Post 6095285)

changing the pivot balls to lighter titanium ones just reduces the unspprung weight of the arms, allowing quicker change in directions and reaction of input. Be careful though with the 3 racing and the rc hobby type pivot balls on rc market. i bought these, and they aren't as strong as the mugen titanium pivot balls. i found one was bent and it affected the tracking of the car in a straight line. i ended up replacing both sides at the from with the steel ones for safety sake.

with the clutch it really depends on the track. A lot of people laughed at me when i had issues with the xray clutch at my track about 1 year ago. The thing is now alot of people at my track are choping and changing parts in the xray clutch, whilst some have changed it completely to the sirio clutch. funny thing is i have it tuned ok now, and a fellow xray racer (kickass) uses the standard clutch also to good effect. I found the best thing was the alluminium bell, it eliminated all my clutch tuning issues, and made it easier to find a wider sweet spot. i can't stress enough how good it works witha yellow shoe :) i really don't think the steel bell is any good, it was the reason for me burning so many yellow shoes...it just doesn't grip the shoe well! i think it is the hard anodising treatment they have given the bell.

set it up per instructions but the trick is to take the smaller pinion of and measure the gap with a set of feelers like these
http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/sh...uage_large.JPG

make sure that with no internal bearing installed and the outside small bearing and other elements screwed in you have a gap between the bell edge and the large nut of .90 to 1mm.

then just put the internal bearing in, and shim it until this gap is only.01mm in size, this means the internal gap between shoe and bell is .8mm and the endplay is .1mm.

clutch spring tension depends on the track. i ran 1mm tension at my track during saturday practice when it was slippery, 1mm tension on the harder xray spring seems like a good start (but i use the kyosho white flyweight)

you can also muck around with using the kyosho white flyweights (i use these) and the orion crf square spring (some people at my track use this spring. It depends on how you like the clutch. Punchy is good, but if your track is slippery maybe use the white standard clutch shoe for a bit more slip.

also, if you like a punchy clutch, but don't want too much kick in the rear end, go to a lower rear diff oil, maybe 30,000cst xray diff oil, and go to a higher front diff oil (maybe like 150,000cst xray)

anyway to sum up, i use;
-kyosho white flyweights (xray flip weights work well but when you have a large shoe to bell gap the holes tend to elongate and deform)
-xray hard spring
-aluminium clutch bell
-yellow shoe

Originally Posted by kickass (Post 6106095)

Thomas has almost got it right here with the clutch. If you run the original fly weights, crf spring and white shoe you need a small gap from shoe .2-.3 otherwise the flyweights crack at the hinge and they are bulshit expensive.
I too have been using keosho white fly weights, saving the xray ones for the big race (Mongara cup) with the 3 holes drilled, still .2 gap. This makes for an awsome agressive but smooth clutch, ha and people think its my engine.
Leave the diff oil kit 60 and just dial in rear toe, im up to 5deg at the moment on slip track, that then comes out when grip comes up. Remember what I say toe in is your best friend.

Originally Posted by AdrianOngs (Post 6110649)

Is thread lock needed for some screws which the manual indicates to apply ?
And also is the shock absorber assembly tool , flywheel tool and pinion tools required?

Originally Posted by AdrianOngs (Post 6112890)

What does thread lock do? It glues the screw in place? How can i remove it?

Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 6114015)

Yes, thread lock liquids locks the screw in place. Suitable for metal to metal contacts, but not metal to plastic ( it makes the plastic brittle ).

Tamiya sell blue thread lock liquids, it's low to medium strength.

Loctite sell red thread lock liquids, it's high strength, plz use very little with this type of liquids.

Originally Posted by musti72 (Post 6114784)

I had a loctite problem yesterday, what a coincidence...:D

It was brake pulley adapter screw which was getting loose after some time no matter how hard I screwed it... So I finally put some Associated blue loctite to the screw and tightened it. It didnt got loose again.

So, I was rebuilding my car yesterday, I removed the screw but pulley adaptor was stuck to the shaft, like it still had the screw on. Anyone knows how can I remove it?