megaracer

iTrader: (3)

could anybody give any suggestion on reflexNT,V1R/RR?
thanks in advance

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

I suggest you ask a more direct question.... and look through the threads on the cars aswell.... there is a lot of good advice in them if you look

megaracer

iTrader: (3)

well,the situation is i can get V1RR by us$220 or reflex nt(standard) by us$280 in my local hobby shop
acctually, i prefer the graphic hopup alum parts contained in nt.
however someone said that the nt's plastic parts are not so qualified as kyosho. is it that case?
i do want to know which one is better according to the quality and my price?
^@^

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Yes, most of my Reflex drivers I know replace the suspension parts with Kyosho parts. They're much more durable. Even though I don't run the V1R, my Kyosho FW04 is the same material and its tough as nails.

popsracer

megaracer;

Funny, in CA, USA the Reflex is about $40usd cheaper than the V1R.
As a happy Reflex owner (4), I can attest the the brittleness of the plastic parts in the kit. The Front Steering Knuckles and the Rear Suspension Arms are most suseptable to hits. I believe that this is caused by the Stiffer plastic used in the Reflex kits.
You can always buy V1R spares for replacements but just make sure to replace in pairs the first time as there are slight differences that may effect the handling if mixed with the Reflex parts on the car.

megaracer

iTrader: (3)

thanks so much^^
further questions
1:how many parts i have to replace since i get a reflex nt? could you please give out a parts list?
2:any comments on the alum parts in reflex nt?
btw:since i had played v1s, i still have plenty of ky's suspension sets^@^
so do i have to replace the plastic gearbox and shock tower?
thanks again

nova racer

this past summer i only broke 1 rear reflex arm but i used v1r hubs all the way around also v1r front bumper but it seemed like i went through al heck of a lot of the reflex cvd's I am i the only person with that problem

maxboost

for more helpful tips, check my thread "V1R, V1RR and reflex nt" its a great thread with lots of informations.

popsracer

nova racer;

Yea, I have the same problem. Seens like any minor hit and they bend. If it's bad enough it takes the inner bearing with it. Not cheap either at about $15 each. I wonder if V1R universals are any better.
Patelladragger are you watching this?

megaracer;

I did have some problems with the diffs leaking through the outdrive shaft holes but I went to the V1R diff cases and that has solved the problem, mostly.
One of my Reflex's broke the Front bumper on it's first day out, the other has had the original for over 6 months, go figure.
The REAR suspension arms and Front steering hubs seem to be the weakest plastic parts. I've had a few belt problems but was mostly caused by pebble damage. Same goes for the Aluminum pulleys. I would put a drop of CA around the guide rings before you install them. Some are not as tight of a fit as they could be.

The Car has a few teething problems but considering how well it handles compared to the HPI I ran for over 2 years, I think that I can put up with it.

megaracer

iTrader: (3)

"I've had a few belt problems but was mostly caused by pebble damage. Same goes for the Aluminum pulleys."
in that way the alum pulleys are no better than KY'S plastic?

weak universals are really annoying ~~
and accoring to my friends, V1RR's universals are quite durable!

what about the strenth of nt's belts?

popsracer

megaracer;

Trinity has some new Hard coated pulleys that are susposed to superceed the plain aluminum ones. I think the coating will act like a glue and hold them together better.
The belts are a trade-off. NT: skinnier belts=less drag+more breakage. V1R: wider belts=more drag+less breakage. It's really what ever is more important to you.

I left a post in the V1R thread about universals. We'll see if anyone replies with a good answer. I would like to find some that are a little less likely to bend in a crash.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Thats odd, most of the guys on the ReflexNT thread over on the RCCA board said they haven't had much breakage at all with their ReflexNT cars.

Of course this could be totally dependent on the type of track people run on. Say a track that uses 2X4 as barriers compared to a permanent track that uses the raised "islands" for barriers or the light impact "Hobby People" type of barriers. Or it could come down to something as simple as being lucky enough not to break. Who knows.

I haven't gotten to run my ReflexNT yet, but I don't like to take chances, so I'll keep some extras on hand! Especially since this will be my first season of Nitro TC.

popsracer

I'm 99% sure that all of my belt and pulley problems were caused by foreign objects, bits of glass, pebbles. Even with a blown off track it is hard to get to get everything cleared off. The steering knuckles (2) were from board hits and the rear arms (2) were from being hit from behind.
I usually race my Reflex every weekend so that's alot of hours on the track and some breakage from mishaps is to be expected.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, its hard to keep the tracks clean. Around here its all those pieces of broken TC3 and XXX-S cars that liter the track!

Hold all the flame messages I'm just messing around with that one!

megaracer

iTrader: (3)

thank u guys so much!
well, it is really har for me now to make the dicision

nt:many alum & graphic hopups(i donot ever know if they r nessasery~), 4mm main chassis.....but fragile plastic parts(compare with v1rr) and a little bit more expensive~~

v1rr:more durable,come with centax,front oneway,lower price,but less hopups