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Old 07-15-2002, 10:03 AM   #736
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Hey Dennis whats up? I just been sitting here reading through some of the post and find it hard to believe what some idiots will say!!! I too am always looking to bullett proof my cars , nor do I look for hand outs by the factorys for their screw ups! only cures for the problems, thats part of the fun for me!!!!!! I have tried everything to cure the NTC3 fuel problem and use the stock tank, I also have a buddy who is a turbo wizard and he has balanced every rotating part on the engine and car and theres still trouble, so don't waiste the time to balance it all unless its just a preference, The lightenen parts are balanced closer than the stock standard stuff, but it should be because theres less material there. I have learned that the GH chassis helped the problem because its much stronger, but when I took the car to a big track half tank troubles still happened. I have even tried oneway check valves but they seem to help the fuel out the pipe problems but make the other troubles worse. If you use a rear exhaust engine guys you can wrap the header with the 3m insulating heat tape like used on planes boats and hellis exhaust and this seems to help keep the heat down in the tank area, and the fuel boiling is almost eliminated. I also made a smalll mt. come off the throttle servo and reroute the fuelline down the driveshaft side of the car, keeping the fuel as far away from the heat as you can also helps. The side exhaust engines might work better because of the exhaust being farther away from the fuel. The serpent tank is still the best deal for me so far !!
Keep up the good work Dennis!!!!!!

Somebody posted AE has designed a new tank they tried at the Nats because of the people bitching and not a actual tank problem, Yea I bet thats why the redesigned!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-15-2002, 10:33 AM   #737
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First of all, if I upset or someone took offense to anything I said.
Sorry.

In the instructions:
The fuel line is supposed to be routed on the Shaft side of the Car. Meaning the Drive shaft side.

Dennis- your having a issue with exhaust temp boiling fuel. Have you tried to route the Line around to other side of head? Also, just a suggestion now. Does the exhaust temp change alot if you run you engine cooler, or fatter? If so then richen up a hair to bring exhaust temps down.

BBntc - If your refering to me being an idiot. Ok. open forum.
Post what you want. I am not going to take offense.
But for anyone that is reading. A friend of mine talked to the ass. guys personaly, They said that the new tank is for Customer service. There is nothing wrong with tank(same tank that has been in RC10GT for years, why is this problem just now arising) They are comming out with new tank because people think that they need it. Ok, those are not my words. Take it as you want. If you think that that is just a answer to cover thier rear, fine. Heck might be.
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Old 07-15-2002, 10:56 AM   #738
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Barry Bakers fuel line is not mounted on the drive shaft side and he is running the new tank lid with a fuel filter on the pressure line. Leaving the rear mounting screw out of the tank all together helps a little with the foaming. The short rod motors do not have as bad a problem either. 2FAST4U2 no one is taking any offense to what your are posting, at this point we are just considering the source.
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Old 07-15-2002, 11:57 AM   #739
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It's not the tank(IT'S THE EXHAUST COMING OFF THE PIECE OF CRAP PIPE WE HAVE TO RUN.
But there are tank problems. I personally saw a few tanks that had slits in the fuel inlet insides the tanks and aleast one that didn't have the brass filter at all.(SO YES THERE ARE TANK PROBLEMS AND ASSOC BETTER RESOLVE THERE PROBLEMS BEFORE MUGEN COMES OUT WITH THERE DRIVE SHAFT CAR.
I'D BE WILLING TO BET THEY LOOK CLOSER AT THERE TOY VERISON AND DO SOMETHING WITH IT.
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Old 07-15-2002, 12:08 PM   #740
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:40 PM   #741
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Need Help
Does anyone know if AE has released the new tank? I am having lots of problems with my NTC3. I have purchased the car with a OS.12 TR more than 3 months ago, and haven't been able to finish a qualifier yet, much less a main, the problem is the engine keeps stalling, I figured the OS was the problem so I got a MT12, well after break in the engine does the same, it stalls. I have tryed diffefent settings, rich, lean, leaner, richer both needles, I even played with the middle range needle formthe MT12, etc.. and all the gurus from my club have tryed to help me but no improvement. The engine (both) always stall in the same spot, right after taking into the longest straight, when I hit full throttle, and eventually when taking a tight U-turn. It seems to get lean and stall. Two engines doing the same thing (both new) seems very uncommon. I though the gas tank had a leak so I replaced it with a new one, no luck, I have lenghtened and shortened the pressure line, did also the pressure fitting modification on the top of the lid but nothing, still the same problem. My hunch is the gas tank desing, any ideas?

Also, can anyone post the factory settings for the MT-12, I have so much leaned and richened it that I don't know anymore where to start back again. Your answer will be very much appreciated.
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:51 PM   #742
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Default glow plugs

what do you recomend 16% nitro jp and mt12 curently got a 6 in???? and if you can why you recomend what you do?
Thank you
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Old 07-15-2002, 05:28 PM   #743
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
what do you recomend 16% nitro jp and mt12 curently got a 6 in?
Uhm.... all the Novarrossi mods and other like I saw come with a Novarrosi number 5 not 6. My experience with a previous Rex and my limited experience with my JP RS12 is to stick with a number 5 or 6 Novarrossi plugs.
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Old 07-15-2002, 05:41 PM   #744
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Old 07-15-2002, 05:47 PM   #745
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Old 07-15-2002, 06:19 PM   #746
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Old 07-15-2002, 06:28 PM   #747
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Old 07-15-2002, 06:43 PM   #748
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Thanks for the details Motorman!

FYI, this RS12T was brand new with the car. It worked flawlessly the first 2 runs, then 2 weeks ago it staerted flaming out like everyone else. This Thursday I threw a Fantom side port in there for a local trophy race. The engine was under powered down the back straight but it ran flawlessly all weekend with no flame out or lack of starting!

I thought it was a poorly tuned Turbo, but now reading several posts, I see it is not the engine...

Does anyone running a side exhaust have these symptons, or is only only high powered rear ports with that funky pipe?

If it is only related to rear exhaust, I am going to need recommendations for a high powered non-turbo side port, based on ROAR legality for an upcoming National race.

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Old 07-15-2002, 06:55 PM   #749
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:15 PM   #750
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I don't think fuel boiling could be a issue.But what is the boiling point of fuel? Anyone know?

If it could be a pipe problem,then it would be that the pipe is a little too good.And before you say I am a idiot,remember this a stroke requires a pipe to build power.They complete the combustion process in the pipe.If the pipe is doing that process better then a normal pipe then the pressure inside of it would be higher then normal.A interesting test would be to make a new stinger with a larger ID.That would decrease the pressure inside without losing the efficency of the pipe.I don't know its just an idea.

Dennis:I watched a video of your main.You do have some horsepower,Geez man.
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