Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

ok good :-P

slackinoff

iTrader: (1)

Seeing the buggy e powered is strange and cool at the same time. What is this "HobbyWing Wifi Express"?

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

The Hobbywing Wifi Express allows you to program the ESC without connecting it to a computer. You use the Hobbywing app on your phone.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...503000/p503211

slackinoff

iTrader: (1)

I need to get with the times. I didn't even know an ESC was programmable. That must be what the E guys are talking about when discussing boost?

token

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Yes,

You can also program an ESC the old fashion way, holding down the set button and then powering on and counting the beeps and letting go at whatever # of beeps correlates to whatever menu option you need.

slackinoff

iTrader: (1)

Update on my rear diff modifications. I think I forgot to post my outcome. My rtr did not come shimmed at all on the rear diff bearings. (for the correct pinion to sun gear mesh). I am sure this is what caused the destruction. I originally thought it was the plastic bearing housings, (they were extremely loose, so I needed a new set) and opted to purchase the aluminum versions ($9 shipped on ebay). The aluminum ones are part # LOSA4454. See picture below. I also found an ebay a seller (rc-parts4you) selling the entire RTR rear diff (gearbox housings, diff, pinion and sun gears, bearings, ect assemble and ready to go for cheaper than buying the pinon and sun gear set. Well in my searching anyway. $30 shipped. (I bet one could find a much better deal on NOs pinion sun gear from the 2.0....I was in a hurry for my next race) I do hunt Ebay for nos from time to time, which is why I like buying the 1 - 2 generations older kits. It is kind of fun to hunt and find these NOS (new old stock) parts. Especially when they are so heavily discounted.

Then I picked up a shim kit. LOSA4452. I popped the new complete diff apart and tested afew combos on the shims. They give you 10 .10 and 10 .20 shims. I forget the combo, but everyone will be different. Just think about how it is effecting the mesh, putting shims on the sun gear side will space it out away from the pinion, and shims on the opposite of the sun gear side will tighten that mesh. It takes several attempts but it is worth it. You know when you get that perfect combo and it is smooth but solid feeling. Mine with no shims was smooth, but not solid feeling. You could tell there was excessive clearance.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Mine was actually shimmed out the box lol. Go figure.

I actually had one of the rear gearbox inserts crack on me so I just bought a few spares in plastic. If they continue to break, I will upgrade to the aluminum. The aluminum is standard on the 8IGHT & 8IGHT-T 3.0 as well as the 4.0's Im sure.

kaptain crash

iTrader: (46)

To be honest, you need to shim the back diff mesh so it l feels a little.. notchy and smooth while you turn the diff. and let it break in. You will get more life out of you diff. Not as a big deal in buggy but truggy...its a must do.

slackinoff

iTrader: (1)

So shim it on the tight side? I simply refuse good sir to do that. But If this one fails on me then I will eat those words. I do feel pretty confident. Especially when you use the thinnest shims. I am one thin shim away from notchy-ness. The setup feels too solid and smooth to not work. We will see.

Question for the group - What body works on the rtr? Can I use the 3.0 body?

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Soooo here's my pathetic attempt at a spray can job on a JConcepts Illuzion body for the 8IGHT 2.0(read many times that it fits the e-conversion, but actually not really >-<)
for the e-converted RTR.This will be my race team colors so all my bodies will look like this. Now to decide on a race team name lol. Any suggestions?

Go easy on me, as you can see the body sits a bit crooked, I had to chop up some spare body posts but still not sitting correctly. The battery is to tall!?! :-(

slackinoff

iTrader: (1)

I think the paint job looks alright brother. Are your droop screw keeping the front arms down / extending? The springs look a little compressed.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. I'm happy how it came out lol. Still trying to come up with a race team name.

I actually have no idea why the spring is so compressed. I had to put it that low to get it to the correct ride height. Can't remember if I still have the 25WT in there from when I was racing on that really cold day or maybe it lost some oil(doubt the later, I crank those shock caps down good lol). I actually have the 3.0 springs on there now and the adjustable collar is about halfway on the shock body.

The front RTR silver springs are quite a bit shorter than than the 3.0 springs. Also a softer spring rate as well.

token

I think the springs look low. My spring collet is less than a 1/4 inch from the top with evo springs