132LikesHotbodies D817 Nitro thread
03-08-2018, 06:01 AM
#481
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
a 5x1.4 would be really soft on pack compared to 5x1.6
and a 5x1.6 would be more soft on low speed damping and roll more.
on a smooth track with big jumps you want high pack with stiffer low speed damping.
below my pack is higher than a 5x1.5 Front and 5X1.6 Rear, but stiffer low speed damping for less roll.
My standard setup with short CF tower in 20-30c temps
6x1.3 front losi 35 oil
3x1.3, 3x1.4 rear losi 32.5 oil
( need to drill them out)
Cold temps will make shock oil thicker. Change oil weight by 2.5wt if temps change by 10c.
At dnc with new v2 pros were running in the night main
Front 6x1.3 (32.5 oil)
Rear 6x1.4 (27.5 oil)
Last edited by chongo; 03-08-2018 at 08:21 AM.
03-08-2018, 06:43 PM
#484
Tech Rookie
Will I still need to buy the rear short tower and shock body for the v2 for low grip conditions?
03-08-2018, 08:50 PM
#485
No
03-08-2018, 08:53 PM
#486
the short rear tower was never needed, Just a tuning option , car had plenty of grip without it
03-08-2018, 10:45 PM
#487
Tech Rookie
Thanks, good to know! I coming from a tki4.
03-08-2018, 11:15 PM
#488
03-09-2018, 04:44 AM
#489
03-09-2018, 06:26 AM
#490
Tech Rookie
I’m curious also. I’ve yet to build mine.
03-09-2018, 06:42 AM
#491
Funny this is mentioned because I ran a TKI4 the other day and it indeed feel "lighter" on the track! But laptimes proved otherwise...only when the wheels are on the ground are you driving forward. I liked the feel of the K-Car but if forced me to drive more "delicately" similar to a 2WD buggy if a parallel has to be drawn. Keep in mind the K-Car was not mine and I would have changed the set-up ultimately to get it to feel more to my liking.
03-09-2018, 06:46 AM
#492
V2 Tower
I agree. Grip is more easily found with tire, toe, squat and roll center tuning than simply with the tower itself. Tuning option for sure...not a cure all for a loose condition in the rear of the car...
03-09-2018, 08:10 AM
#493
Main differences that I noticed:
- HB let's you drive it harder. It invites driving through instead of around
- Rear grip is higher on the HB
- HB Provides less steering than the K car which for me resulted in less twitch (I'm sure that could be tuned out)
- Quality of parts is higher on the HB. The parts are massive and extremely sturdy
- The car feels more connected to the ground vs the K that always felt floating to me
I've tried multiple cars and the HB is the first one where I don't "miss" the TKI4.
03-09-2018, 10:16 AM
#494
Both are great cars and I love Kyosho.
Main differences that I noticed:
- HB let's you drive it harder. It invites driving through instead of around
- Rear grip is higher on the HB
- HB Provides less steering than the K car which for me resulted in less twitch (I'm sure that could be tuned out)
- Quality of parts is higher on the HB. The parts are massive and extremely sturdy
- The car feels more connected to the ground vs the K that always felt floating to me
I've tried multiple cars and the HB is the first one where I don't "miss" the TKI4.
Main differences that I noticed:
- HB let's you drive it harder. It invites driving through instead of around
- Rear grip is higher on the HB
- HB Provides less steering than the K car which for me resulted in less twitch (I'm sure that could be tuned out)
- Quality of parts is higher on the HB. The parts are massive and extremely sturdy
- The car feels more connected to the ground vs the K that always felt floating to me
I've tried multiple cars and the HB is the first one where I don't "miss" the TKI4.
03-09-2018, 12:43 PM
#495
You cannot be serious.
Kyosho chassis...cheaper than a back alley hooker...shock bodies coating wears in minutes and I am literally at a loss for what to say to your claim that the DBlock wears 5x faster on HB? Did you leave both rear shocks off the car and let the ass drag? And IF your claims are even remotely true then why has kyosho updated their anodizing as of late to a greater hardness and how can you accept any part of any car being of better quality than a car (kyosho) that cost at least 100.00 more than the next competitor. Their parts should be beyond reproach. But are not. The only one in your list I will cede to you are the outdrives and pins. The drivetrain rolls more free on a Kyosho simply because of straight cut gears...which are cheaper to produce and provide less drag. Somehow Kyosho charges more for those parts too...you indeed have turned this into a debate. I have been frustrated to the point where I do not buy Kyosho anymore...cost vs performance is not there.