Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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#2208
Tech Initiate
5-5-3 /5-5-2.
#2209
#2211
Tech Apprentice
Shock setup for bumpy , med-low grip track
Hi everyone!
Which shock setup would you recommend me for a bumpy track with medium to low grip, that degrades and temp around 15 celcius degree?
Thanks a lot!
Daniel
Which shock setup would you recommend me for a bumpy track with medium to low grip, that degrades and temp around 15 celcius degree?
Thanks a lot!
Daniel
#2212
Tech Master
1,3x8 pistons. 400 kyosho oil rear. 500 front. Light blue springs front and orange rear springs.
#2213
Tech Apprentice
#2214
#2215
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Ok guys, I am going to put out some of my thoughts about the tki4. From the beginning I have been pretty impressed with the car right out of the box. I have tried several set up changes including putting the tki3 b block and knuckles on. During the b block swap I was amazed at the difference in kick up vs the two cars. I thought to myself the difference on the track is going to be night and day. Well I had a good opportunity to test the difference in parts on the same track layout.
The numbers did not lye. I dont have anything documented but the change from the previous b block was worth about 3 tenths pretty consistently. My deal is I really dont know if this change is necessary? I felt the steering was pretty much the same. And the surface I was testing on doesnt get too rough so the bump handling felt overall about the same. I can recall the first night I raced the car in all tki4 form, the track had actually become very rough, jumps had come apart, lots of holes and loose dirt on the surface. I had won the b main hands down, then went from last in the a to finish 5th in the a. I only felt I did in my mind pretty satisfactory because my car was dealing with these surfaces very well. I am going to say that the old b block may only be necessary where track surfaces become very rough. I really dont know yet as I havent been to very many other tracks lately.
I am very happy with the kyosho, but truth be told i thought it was a bummer when I read that folks were swapping the old b block and knuckles. That is about another 150.00 dollars on top of the kit, starts to make it pricey to run the kyosho. I had read about guys breaking pills in the a block, primarily when using the tki4 b block, I have not broke a pill yet 5 gallons down the road. This is using either b block.
I guess the big question at hand is are the tki3 b block and knuckles really necessary? How about just using the b block only? I would think that would make the bigger change in the car. I have been tempted to put the kit parts back on.
The car is just so easy to set up. I find the only thing I really change is the center and rear diff oil depending on track conditions. Same with the shocks. I may go up or down a weight in oil depending on temps and conditions. I watched several of the videos put up by Mike Craddock on how to service the car and have found issues that I used to have, I no longer have them.
The numbers did not lye. I dont have anything documented but the change from the previous b block was worth about 3 tenths pretty consistently. My deal is I really dont know if this change is necessary? I felt the steering was pretty much the same. And the surface I was testing on doesnt get too rough so the bump handling felt overall about the same. I can recall the first night I raced the car in all tki4 form, the track had actually become very rough, jumps had come apart, lots of holes and loose dirt on the surface. I had won the b main hands down, then went from last in the a to finish 5th in the a. I only felt I did in my mind pretty satisfactory because my car was dealing with these surfaces very well. I am going to say that the old b block may only be necessary where track surfaces become very rough. I really dont know yet as I havent been to very many other tracks lately.
I am very happy with the kyosho, but truth be told i thought it was a bummer when I read that folks were swapping the old b block and knuckles. That is about another 150.00 dollars on top of the kit, starts to make it pricey to run the kyosho. I had read about guys breaking pills in the a block, primarily when using the tki4 b block, I have not broke a pill yet 5 gallons down the road. This is using either b block.
I guess the big question at hand is are the tki3 b block and knuckles really necessary? How about just using the b block only? I would think that would make the bigger change in the car. I have been tempted to put the kit parts back on.
The car is just so easy to set up. I find the only thing I really change is the center and rear diff oil depending on track conditions. Same with the shocks. I may go up or down a weight in oil depending on temps and conditions. I watched several of the videos put up by Mike Craddock on how to service the car and have found issues that I used to have, I no longer have them.
#2217
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Ok guys, I am going to put out some of my thoughts about the tki4. From the beginning I have been pretty impressed with the car right out of the box. I have tried several set up changes including putting the tki3 b block and knuckles on. During the b block swap I was amazed at the difference in kick up vs the two cars. I thought to myself the difference on the track is going to be night and day. Well I had a good opportunity to test the difference in parts on the same track layout.
The numbers did not lye. I dont have anything documented but the change from the previous b block was worth about 3 tenths pretty consistently. My deal is I really dont know if this change is necessary? I felt the steering was pretty much the same. And the surface I was testing on doesnt get too rough so the bump handling felt overall about the same. I can recall the first night I raced the car in all tki4 form, the track had actually become very rough, jumps had come apart, lots of holes and loose dirt on the surface. I had won the b main hands down, then went from last in the a to finish 5th in the a. I only felt I did in my mind pretty satisfactory because my car was dealing with these surfaces very well. I am going to say that the old b block may only be necessary where track surfaces become very rough. I really dont know yet as I havent been to very many other tracks lately.
I am very happy with the kyosho, but truth be told i thought it was a bummer when I read that folks were swapping the old b block and knuckles. That is about another 150.00 dollars on top of the kit, starts to make it pricey to run the kyosho. I had read about guys breaking pills in the a block, primarily when using the tki4 b block, I have not broke a pill yet 5 gallons down the road. This is using either b block.
I guess the big question at hand is are the tki3 b block and knuckles really necessary? How about just using the b block only? I would think that would make the bigger change in the car. I have been tempted to put the kit parts back on.
The car is just so easy to set up. I find the only thing I really change is the center and rear diff oil depending on track conditions. Same with the shocks. I may go up or down a weight in oil depending on temps and conditions. I watched several of the videos put up by Mike Craddock on how to service the car and have found issues that I used to have, I no longer have them.
The numbers did not lye. I dont have anything documented but the change from the previous b block was worth about 3 tenths pretty consistently. My deal is I really dont know if this change is necessary? I felt the steering was pretty much the same. And the surface I was testing on doesnt get too rough so the bump handling felt overall about the same. I can recall the first night I raced the car in all tki4 form, the track had actually become very rough, jumps had come apart, lots of holes and loose dirt on the surface. I had won the b main hands down, then went from last in the a to finish 5th in the a. I only felt I did in my mind pretty satisfactory because my car was dealing with these surfaces very well. I am going to say that the old b block may only be necessary where track surfaces become very rough. I really dont know yet as I havent been to very many other tracks lately.
I am very happy with the kyosho, but truth be told i thought it was a bummer when I read that folks were swapping the old b block and knuckles. That is about another 150.00 dollars on top of the kit, starts to make it pricey to run the kyosho. I had read about guys breaking pills in the a block, primarily when using the tki4 b block, I have not broke a pill yet 5 gallons down the road. This is using either b block.
I guess the big question at hand is are the tki3 b block and knuckles really necessary? How about just using the b block only? I would think that would make the bigger change in the car. I have been tempted to put the kit parts back on.
The car is just so easy to set up. I find the only thing I really change is the center and rear diff oil depending on track conditions. Same with the shocks. I may go up or down a weight in oil depending on temps and conditions. I watched several of the videos put up by Mike Craddock on how to service the car and have found issues that I used to have, I no longer have them.
#2219
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
So the tki4 b block was 0.3 faster? Also you don’t need the tki3 $150 parts ($130 actually I think). I have been running the rtr knuckles and b block with no issues other than I stopped breaking the pills in the a block. For me the tki3 parts make the car easier to drive.