321LikesKyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
11-05-2018, 09:06 AM - Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:
Shocks IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons IF471-01 Front Shock Body IF470-01 Rear Shock Body IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial IFW154 Boots IF346-05C Shock End Set Wing IF491BK Wing IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay Rear End IFH006W Wheel IF490 HUB IF490-01 Hub Insert IF492 Shock Pin IF423HB Rear Arm IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear Front End IF489 Steering Rod Set IF488 Knuckles IF487H Front Arm IFW458 Hard Lower Pin IFW425 93MM CVD IF286 Hard Upper Rod IF486 Lower Susp Holder IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard) IF446B Ackerman Arm IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft Other IF469B Filter 97035LW-13 Clutch Bell IF453B Body Mount IFW107GM Hexes W300910 Washer IF443B Center Diff Plate IF444C Tank IF479B Radio Box 96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim IF481B Fuel Tank Stay IFW336GM Wheelnut IFB008 TKI4 Body IFD403W TKI4 Decal --------------------------- Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is : IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.) They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458) --------------------------- Optional Updates / New Parts: IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9) IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017) Optional Alu front hubs: - IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones) - IFW436 - 16 deg - IFW474 - 17.5 deg - IFW461 - 19deg M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610 Body Options New Bitty Force Body Tebo's Build Videos Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread _____________________ Baseline setups from Joonas.   _____________________ Shock build with vented cap and compensator. You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape. Setup Sheet and Tuning The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense. Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example: Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked. Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange. Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified). Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance. Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there. Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask. Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup. Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic. Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre. Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything. Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do. Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more. Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both. Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height. Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction). Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch. Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible. 
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09-05-2017, 08:35 AM
#1936
Hi, im new to the TKI4 and slowly settling in after trying to get the Xray to work on dirt for too long.
Anyway, I raced a club race this week-end and in the last 3rd of the race I suddenly got into the groove and nailed 6 consecutive fast laps with about 0.1% consistency. I normally get the fastest laps in first 3rd of a race but didn’t think much of it.
When going through the car after the race I noticed that 2 of the forward most screws attaching the radio tray to the chassis were lost, and the middle one 50% unscrewed. In hindsight my theory is that the added flex was good for me/my setup/the track etc. Strangely I nailed the largest jump MUCH better and I was way more consistent in the tight corners (not so strange). The bump handling and high speed sections felt the same.
Any ideas on how to achieve more flex or a similar feel / behavior in the car with all the radio tray screws firmly secured?
Anyway, I raced a club race this week-end and in the last 3rd of the race I suddenly got into the groove and nailed 6 consecutive fast laps with about 0.1% consistency. I normally get the fastest laps in first 3rd of a race but didn’t think much of it.
When going through the car after the race I noticed that 2 of the forward most screws attaching the radio tray to the chassis were lost, and the middle one 50% unscrewed. In hindsight my theory is that the added flex was good for me/my setup/the track etc. Strangely I nailed the largest jump MUCH better and I was way more consistent in the tight corners (not so strange). The bump handling and high speed sections felt the same.
Any ideas on how to achieve more flex or a similar feel / behavior in the car with all the radio tray screws firmly secured?
09-05-2017, 09:07 AM
#1937
Tech Rookie
No worries. I do run the front upper arms high (9 dot up and dot up) in order to achieve a lower roll center in the front.
09-06-2017, 06:25 AM
#1940
Tech Rookie
Hello guys,
I am really interested to know if I can turn a Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI2 to TKI3 and further to TKI4 (as long as a TKI3 can be upgraded into a TKI4).
If something like this is possible, could someone show me a list of the needed parts for the upgrade?
Thanks in advance, that's a really big trouble for me.
I am really interested to know if I can turn a Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI2 to TKI3 and further to TKI4 (as long as a TKI3 can be upgraded into a TKI4).
If something like this is possible, could someone show me a list of the needed parts for the upgrade?
Thanks in advance, that's a really big trouble for me.
09-06-2017, 01:07 PM
#1941
Hello guys,
I am really interested to know if I can turn a Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI2 to TKI3 and further to TKI4 (as long as a TKI3 can be upgraded into a TKI4).
If something like this is possible, could someone show me a list of the needed parts for the upgrade?
Thanks in advance, that's a really big trouble for me.
I am really interested to know if I can turn a Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI2 to TKI3 and further to TKI4 (as long as a TKI3 can be upgraded into a TKI4).
If something like this is possible, could someone show me a list of the needed parts for the upgrade?
Thanks in advance, that's a really big trouble for me.
09-06-2017, 10:32 PM
#1942
I've just installed the 17.5* castor blocks to try and I noticed that I wasn't getting the droop I was before (103). Upon investigation I found that the caster blocks are hitting on the arm because they are laid back more. Limiting droop. I can only get 102. Thinking I might just get the dremel out and make some clearance.
Just wondering if anyone else has come across this problem. tia
Just wondering if anyone else has come across this problem. tia
09-07-2017, 06:29 AM
#1944
I'm also looking closely at your setup 30Tooth. Working my way up to it. Got the aeration caps installed and ready to try next meeting also (2 and a half week wait dammit).
09-07-2017, 10:18 AM
#1945
No problem, I didn't tried that much droop and have reports of issues above 102mm.
For those having steering problems I remembered yet another thing. The TKI4 uses same pistons front and rear,which is wrong, the damping is all out of whack and most if not all cars have more rear damping than front, making the rear even more supported than the front.
For those having steering problems I remembered yet another thing. The TKI4 uses same pistons front and rear,which is wrong, the damping is all out of whack and most if not all cars have more rear damping than front, making the rear even more supported than the front.
09-08-2017, 08:52 PM
#1946
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
No problem, I didn't tried that much droop and have reports of issues above 102mm.
For those having steering problems I remembered yet another thing. The TKI4 uses same pistons front and rear,which is wrong, the damping is all out of whack and most if not all cars have more rear damping than front, making the rear even more supported than the front.
For those having steering problems I remembered yet another thing. The TKI4 uses same pistons front and rear,which is wrong, the damping is all out of whack and most if not all cars have more rear damping than front, making the rear even more supported than the front.
Just have a look at the setup sheets from any of Tebo, King, et al from their race wins in the past 3-4 years and almost invariably, you'll find they have been using the 1.3x8 hole white pistons in both front and rear shocks. Again, obviously they use different oil viscosity at each end but there's certainly no problem running the same pistons at both ends.
What exactly is the handling problem you're trying to sort out?
09-09-2017, 06:14 AM
#1947
G'day mate, a couple points I want to address.
First is that I don't trust pros setups, I don't drive like them or think like them. I prefer the Physics approach. No hard feelings about tuning by feel.
I know first hand that using same shock piston setup front and rear is not good, there's a couple of reasons. The most important is that the rear shocks are mounted closer to the wheel than front shocks are, that changes leverage for both spring and damping. That way, the closer the shock is mounted to the wheel the more damping/spring it will offer to the wheel. Building on that one could think that shock oil takes care of the difference but truth is that it isn't enough nor provides the same progression as carefully calculated piston hole area. That's why you use close to same oil front and rear with the different shock piston hole diameter, it's because the damping at the wheel is very close and therefore balanced.
This stems from 1:1 shock tuning which for what I know uses same "oil" but changes piston hole and shim stack to achieve balanced damping.
Hope it helps mate.
First is that I don't trust pros setups, I don't drive like them or think like them. I prefer the Physics approach. No hard feelings about tuning by feel.
I know first hand that using same shock piston setup front and rear is not good, there's a couple of reasons. The most important is that the rear shocks are mounted closer to the wheel than front shocks are, that changes leverage for both spring and damping. That way, the closer the shock is mounted to the wheel the more damping/spring it will offer to the wheel. Building on that one could think that shock oil takes care of the difference but truth is that it isn't enough nor provides the same progression as carefully calculated piston hole area. That's why you use close to same oil front and rear with the different shock piston hole diameter, it's because the damping at the wheel is very close and therefore balanced.
This stems from 1:1 shock tuning which for what I know uses same "oil" but changes piston hole and shim stack to achieve balanced damping.
Hope it helps mate.
09-09-2017, 07:50 PM
#1948
Tech Initiate
Sup Guys! Long time reader, first time posting.
Has anyone ran the +2mm MS front end with the new emulsion style caps? If so, do you like it better then the shorter stuff? From what I see and hear the longer front shocks are not preferred. Looking to rebuild my rig after a long break and trying to decide which way to go and can only make 1 small parts order before my first race lmao. Thanks
Has anyone ran the +2mm MS front end with the new emulsion style caps? If so, do you like it better then the shorter stuff? From what I see and hear the longer front shocks are not preferred. Looking to rebuild my rig after a long break and trying to decide which way to go and can only make 1 small parts order before my first race lmao. Thanks
09-09-2017, 07:53 PM
#1949
Tech Initiate
G'day mate, a couple points I want to address.
First is that I don't trust pros setups, I don't drive like them or think like them. I prefer the Physics approach. No hard feelings about tuning by feel.
I know first hand that using same shock piston setup front and rear is not good, there's a couple of reasons. The most important is that the rear shocks are mounted closer to the wheel than front shocks are, that changes leverage for both spring and damping. That way, the closer the shock is mounted to the wheel the more damping/spring it will offer to the wheel. Building on that one could think that shock oil takes care of the difference but truth is that it isn't enough nor provides the same progression as carefully calculated piston hole area. That's why you use close to same oil front and rear with the different shock piston hole diameter, it's because the damping at the wheel is very close and therefore balanced.
This stems from 1:1 shock tuning which for what I know uses same "oil" but changes piston hole and shim stack to achieve balanced damping.
Hope it helps mate.
First is that I don't trust pros setups, I don't drive like them or think like them. I prefer the Physics approach. No hard feelings about tuning by feel.
I know first hand that using same shock piston setup front and rear is not good, there's a couple of reasons. The most important is that the rear shocks are mounted closer to the wheel than front shocks are, that changes leverage for both spring and damping. That way, the closer the shock is mounted to the wheel the more damping/spring it will offer to the wheel. Building on that one could think that shock oil takes care of the difference but truth is that it isn't enough nor provides the same progression as carefully calculated piston hole area. That's why you use close to same oil front and rear with the different shock piston hole diameter, it's because the damping at the wheel is very close and therefore balanced.
This stems from 1:1 shock tuning which for what I know uses same "oil" but changes piston hole and shim stack to achieve balanced damping.
Hope it helps mate.
09-09-2017, 09:30 PM
#1950
Sup Guys! Long time reader, first time posting.
Has anyone ran the +2mm MS front end with the new emulsion style caps? If so, do you like it better then the shorter stuff? From what I see and hear the longer front shocks are not preferred. Looking to rebuild my rig after a long break and trying to decide which way to go and can only make 1 small parts order before my first race lmao. Thanks
Has anyone ran the +2mm MS front end with the new emulsion style caps? If so, do you like it better then the shorter stuff? From what I see and hear the longer front shocks are not preferred. Looking to rebuild my rig after a long break and trying to decide which way to go and can only make 1 small parts order before my first race lmao. Thanks