Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit >

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

Like Tree321Likes

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

    Hide Wikipost
Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

Print Wikipost

Old 07-19-2017, 06:43 PM
  #1771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
HaulinBass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: grande prairie alberta canada
Posts: 3,096
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Can anyone give me the mesurements for the front/rear ring gear bolt pattern as well as the width of the front or rear diff cup?
HaulinBass is offline  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:46 PM
  #1772  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Greenwood, IN
Posts: 1,062
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by HaulinBass
The new shock coating is like the old silver stuff actually holds up, why kyosho used that ugly shitty brown anno ill never know
Edit: the aftermarket shock bodies kyosho sells(not the junk that comes with the kit) hold up pretty well also
What is the part number for the good shock bodies?
windellmc is offline  
Old 07-19-2017, 08:59 PM
  #1773  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
 
tobamiester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tea drinking Limmey in NJ
Posts: 12,383
Trader Rating: 360 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by windellmc
What is the part number for the good shock bodies?
TKI4
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
tobamiester is offline  
Old 07-20-2017, 03:14 PM
  #1774  
am
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,842
Default

Anyone know the difference between the IFW52 and IFW52B? IFW52 is for the old Mp 7.5/777 series but what is the physical difference?
am is offline  
Old 07-20-2017, 06:30 PM
  #1775  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Greenwood, IN
Posts: 1,062
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tobamiester
TKI4
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
Will these last at least a year without turning the oil aluminum flake colored?
windellmc is offline  
Old 07-20-2017, 06:42 PM
  #1776  
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by windellmc
Will these last at least a year without turning the oil aluminum flake colored?
yes they will, but if you can wait until the new ones are released they are apparently a big improvement in smoothness and durability
mourinho is offline  
Old 07-20-2017, 08:14 PM
  #1777  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
p.hat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 102
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyLTQEhUgpI
skrichter likes this.
p.hat is offline  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:50 PM
  #1778  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Greenwood, IN
Posts: 1,062
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mourinho
yes they will, but if you can wait until the new ones are released they are apparently a big improvement in smoothness and durability
I know it is possible because mugen shock bodies have been that good for probably 10 years.
windellmc is offline  
Old 07-22-2017, 05:25 AM
  #1779  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 260
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

vrp pistons

Last edited by geforce; 07-23-2017 at 04:25 AM.
geforce is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 12:22 PM
  #1780  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Fellas please tell me there's a rear body post from another brand that will work on the Tki!!!!!! Needs to be extended further, This Fukin thing is to far back, 3 track days and my body is trash, broken all the way thru!!! $35 a piece. I don't think so!!! Imagine if I would have had it custom painted! $100 in the trash in only 3 track days
Deerek761 likes this.
1evo RRR Driver is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 04:04 PM
  #1781  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
THE PHILLY JYNX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,385
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver
Fellas please tell me there's a rear body post from another brand that will work on the Tki!!!!!! Needs to be extended further, This Fukin thing is to far back, 3 track days and my body is trash, broken all the way thru!!! $35 a piece. I don't think so!!! Imagine if I would have had it custom painted! $100 in the trash in only 3 track days
losi rear post!!! mounts up fine will need to dermal bottom to clear chassic brace mount... been doing this 4 years now w/no issues anymore... Just one of those things that actually needs correcting on the buggy
THE PHILLY JYNX is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 05:24 PM
  #1782  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
losi rear post!!! mounts up fine will need to dermal bottom to clear chassic brace mount... been doing this 4 years now w/no issues anymore... Just one of those things that actually needs correcting on the buggy
Thanku. Instant joy!!
1evo RRR Driver is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 05:45 PM
  #1783  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
losi rear post!!! mounts up fine will need to dermal bottom to clear chassic brace mount... been doing this 4 years now w/no issues anymore... Just one of those things that actually needs correcting on the buggy
Ordered!!!
1evo RRR Driver is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 07:03 PM
  #1784  
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

at body post locations i reinforce the body with shoe goo, a layer of kyosho aluminum tape, then another layer of shoe goo.

they never tear after this, deform a little yes but never tear
mourinho is offline  
Old 07-23-2017, 07:38 PM
  #1785  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mourinho
at body post locations i reinforce the body with shoe goo, a layer of kyosho aluminum tape, then another layer of shoe goo.

they never tear after this, deform a little yes but never tear
I do that also, Drywall fiber mesh tape n shoogoo. It still broke
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-image.jpg  
1evo RRR Driver is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.