Universal Starting Setup - How to.
#166
Pic 3
#167
Pic 4 with new rear hubs
#168
Pic 5 new rear hubs
#169
So asking about the axe plunge?
#170
My final opinion of the RC8B3 is that it's a driver's car. It is super fast in the right hands. You gotta have the skill to get the most out of it. Of course that can be said with any car, but i think the B3 bites back harder. I've seen it really laying down the lap times with all box stock parts... stock diffs, stock hubs, stock springs
I'll also add that i think part of what makes the car so fast is its turning ability that comes from a loose rear.
I think that loose rear bit Cavallari at Neo. During the race you could see the rear getting a little squirrelly here and there that led to a couple of mistakes. Tebo's car was as smooth as could be and i don't think he made any mistakes. My point here is that even with Cavallari's massive talent he made some mistakes too which i think was due to a loose rear. Yes, lots of other people were making mistakes too. I'm also not saying Kyosho is better or faster, just smoother.
#171
Without having more data like camber gain profile from the AE it's going to be though to say exactly what the car needs to have a more stable rear end. From what I read here and what I get from the DNC setup I can only make assumptions and provide general tips nothing more.
The DNC setup is going towards the Sworkz hub geometry, only it won't do all of the work in the rear. The front roll couple was diminished (A and B plate pills) and now the lower rear hub hole is used, effectively tipping roll axis in a way to get less rear roll. Unfortunately that also increases turn in sensitivity/rotation, some will like it others won't. Personally I still see the shorter rear camber link as the better option, like the MP9 has.
The DNC setup is going towards the Sworkz hub geometry, only it won't do all of the work in the rear. The front roll couple was diminished (A and B plate pills) and now the lower rear hub hole is used, effectively tipping roll axis in a way to get less rear roll. Unfortunately that also increases turn in sensitivity/rotation, some will like it others won't. Personally I still see the shorter rear camber link as the better option, like the MP9 has.
#172
Yeah my friend Jimmy and i came up with the Sworkz hub replacement, but we have not tried the DNC mods. A different friend at the track put most of the DNC mods on his car (no Sworkz hubs). When i drove it, it did feel easier to drive than any other non Sworkz hub iteration. It still had a lot of steering and you still had to be on the ball when driving the car. Of course without all the mods only so much can be evaluated from it.
My final opinion of the RC8B3 is that it's a driver's car. It is super fast in the right hands. You gotta have the skill to get the most out of it. Of course that can be said with any car, but i think the B3 bites back harder. I've seen it really laying down the lap times with all box stock parts... stock diffs, stock hubs, stock springs
I'll also add that i think part of what makes the car so fast is its turning ability that comes from a loose rear.
I think that loose rear bit Cavallari at Neo. During the race you could see the rear getting a little squirrelly here and there that led to a couple of mistakes. Tebo's car was as smooth as could be and i don't think he made any mistakes. My point here is that even with Cavallari's massive talent he made some mistakes too which i think was due to a loose rear. Yes, lots of other people were making mistakes too. I'm also not saying Kyosho is better or faster, just smoother.
My final opinion of the RC8B3 is that it's a driver's car. It is super fast in the right hands. You gotta have the skill to get the most out of it. Of course that can be said with any car, but i think the B3 bites back harder. I've seen it really laying down the lap times with all box stock parts... stock diffs, stock hubs, stock springs
I'll also add that i think part of what makes the car so fast is its turning ability that comes from a loose rear.
I think that loose rear bit Cavallari at Neo. During the race you could see the rear getting a little squirrelly here and there that led to a couple of mistakes. Tebo's car was as smooth as could be and i don't think he made any mistakes. My point here is that even with Cavallari's massive talent he made some mistakes too which i think was due to a loose rear. Yes, lots of other people were making mistakes too. I'm also not saying Kyosho is better or faster, just smoother.
#173
Without having more data like camber gain profile from the AE it's going to be though to say exactly what the car needs to have a more stable rear end. From what I read here and what I get from the DNC setup I can only make assumptions and provide general tips nothing more.
The DNC setup is going towards the Sworkz hub geometry, only it won't do all of the work in the rear. The front roll couple was diminished (A and B plate pills) and now the lower rear hub hole is used, effectively tipping roll axis in a way to get less rear roll. Unfortunately that also increases turn in sensitivity/rotation, some will like it others won't. Personally I still see the shorter rear camber link as the better option, like the MP9 has.
The DNC setup is going towards the Sworkz hub geometry, only it won't do all of the work in the rear. The front roll couple was diminished (A and B plate pills) and now the lower rear hub hole is used, effectively tipping roll axis in a way to get less rear roll. Unfortunately that also increases turn in sensitivity/rotation, some will like it others won't. Personally I still see the shorter rear camber link as the better option, like the MP9 has.
#175
In general terms, i think the short rear link will make the buggy's rear more hyper active which this car doesn't need, but 30 could be right and it'll be better!
#176
A shorter camber link will plant the tires quicker every time they receive an input, it will be harder to get the car upset at least the other car's I've tried including both wide rear pivot cars. We won't find out until it's tried, another thing is if the over roll is cured in the rear (courtesy of the short camber link, short links roll less than long links) it enables the use of thinner roll bars and revert the hyper active behaviour.
Last edited by 30Tooth; 12-19-2016 at 04:50 AM.
#177
A shorter camber link will plant the tires quicker every time they receive an input, it will be harder to get the car upset at least the other car's I've tried including both wide rear pivot cars. We won't find out until it's tried, another thing is if the over roll is cured in the rear (courtesy of the short camber link, short links roll less than long links) it enables the use of thinner roll bars and revert the hyper active behaviour.
Last edited by Kakenballs; 04-06-2016 at 11:12 AM.
#178
About the camber link length I tried that today, went a step shorter in the rear. I started with longest link, which is already short comparing with cars I had, and with the new shorter link the rear isn't more sensitive or worse. It's actually easier to keep the rear end from overtaking the front now. The XB9 (using the short arm) and the RC8B3 might have the same rear arm length so I can shed some tips as the XB9 is now my main car. For example, one thing I found today (being curious about the RC8B3 setup) is the front roll center is the cherry in the top of the cake. Starting with the arms level with ground, maximum ride height I can have arms parallel and trying to keep roll centers close to ground next move is finding the balance between stability, turn in and out with the rear geometry. Once I reach max rear grip (for example today balance was a bit into oversteer on power and little turn-in but rear grip was maxxed out) I move to the front end, usually just a roll center height change, which will be tested during next week.
Thinking about that, the changes I've made during past week were the same THE Car needed.
#179
I think I'm unto something regarding camber gain in different cars and suspension designs and carcass roundness. For example THE Car always worked better on round carcass tires like the city-beam I run. Using square armors it's been tricky to drive and I found I ran less camber gain in that car compared to my 7.5 and XB9, even the MBX6. That wasn't on purpose because I wanted to keep it calmer being a short arm design, so I worked around with roll center height tuning and that's why I said they should be close to ground as possible, unfortunately I didn't made the camber gain adjustment (or re-adjustment) to back where it was with the long front link and high roll center (easy to drive car, no oversteer ever). Well, THE Car is sitting without engine and electronics but with the changes already made, but will try the new XB9 setup first.
#180
Will be running the buggy this weekend to see if the changes worked will start slow moving to the shortest rear link without giving up to much. Will keep you post my friends.