Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy
11-11-2016, 07:23 AM - Wikipost
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Finally , its launched : [URL=http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dnx8/[/URL]
Part# TD102040. As more information becomes available, i'll update the first 2 posts of this thread. Please PM me if you find more info you'd like to put on here. Cheers Link to manual. Link to setup sheet. Blog from Travis 3/27/2015 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/tag/travis-amezcua/ Build info : [url=http://www.tdbuild.info[/url] Get Support: [url=http://www.tdsupport.info[/url] FEATURES *Chassis: Hard anodized 7075 T6 aluminum, 0.12" (3mm) thick *Drive: Four wheel *Shocks: 16mm Big Bore aluminum body with vented caps, and a choice of constant volume and emulsion bodies *Shock Towers: 0.20" (5mm) thick milled aluminum *Suspension: Fully adjustable pivot ball with square hinge pin inserts for more options for front end mods, galvanized components for protection against oxygenation *Differentials: Ultra lightweight bevel gear type with composite cross shafts for increased acceleration and durability *Fuel Tank: --oz (--cc) *Clutch Bell: 13T steel *Steering: with adjustable Ackermann, Ackermann refers to the effect of the the inner front wheel rotating faster than the outer front wheel during turns *Rear Body Mount: Floating type for increased body life *Battery Box: Fully enclosed for maximum protection *Body: Pretrimmed polycarbonate with cab-forward design *Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the chassis, Active Caster Inserts for quick changes *Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle Vehicle; *Length: 20.9" (522mm) *Width: 12.1" (307mm) *Height: 7.3" (186mm) *Wheelbase: 12.7-12.9" (322 - 328mm) *Racing Weight: 7lbs 8oz (3.4kg)       Essentials a) IMPORTANT: Use wash like MUGE0161 "Mugen FRONT TRACK WIDTH ADJUSTMENT SPACER) on lower Pivot balls to prevent premature failure. Dimensions of washer: 6mm inner and 14mm outer so any equivalent brand will work. Recommendations a) Use Alum Servo Arm TD340122 25T TD340123 24T TD340124 23T or Hot Bodies 67168 24T, 67169 25T or 67167 23T b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.  c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert. The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.  d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver e) Shock Build options For Emulsion build see this post: [url=http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html[/url] Bladders are TD330589 After Market Upgrade RPM Wing Mount [url=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/chassis-accessories/arrma-durango-wing-mounts/[/url] 
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05-07-2015, 04:20 AM
#257
Set-up Travis Amezcusa 05.2015
Last edited by speedy2; 05-14-2015 at 01:26 AM.
05-07-2015, 03:32 PM
#258
Tech Addict
05-08-2015, 09:42 AM
#261
snug it with power driver, then another 1/8 turn or so by hand. And make sure your gasket is lined up properly.
05-08-2015, 02:32 PM
#262
Tech Regular
I tighten them pretty tight, but if you are having problems with it leaking you can run two gaskets which also makes the diff run freer, or you can run one gasket and take out the two large shims behind the 2 planet gears this makes the diff really smooth and i have been running mine like this for a good while now!
05-08-2015, 08:39 PM
#265
I just finished the major assemblies on the DNX8 today. Some things I noticed are just minor gripes, some I think could stand to be improved.
-Most of the sub-assemblies were respectably well built, even the shocks although the shock action is not quite as smooth as my Hotbodies shocks and I'm thinking that the molded pistons may be the culprit. If there are machined aftermarket pistons that will fit that someone could recommend it would be appreciated.
-Had to avoid over-tightening the screws (top and bottom) that hold the servo-saver assembly to the chassis or it will bind. Wondering if shims might help?
-The lower brake cam lever touches the center diff gear during normal operation, so I need to make some adjustments.
-I think that the springs are a bit too short as they float loose between the shock collar and spring cup when the collars are all the way at the top.
-I think that one of the ring gears on my diffs may be slightly warped: when I turn the drive shaft for the rear diff, half the turn is smooth, the other half of the turn is notchy. Difs themselves are buttery smooth in their action.
-Plastics: some components are molded in a very soft plastic which irks me because unlike a firm plastic that you will feel a slight resistance when your screw is acceptably tight, some of the ones in the DNX8 (wing mount, radio tray posts, lower front arms) are so soft that there is almost no perceptible difference between acceptably tight and stripped! I had to use CA glue to rejuvenate some threads in the wing mount, as well as the housings where the m4 nuts that secure the rear brace to the gearbox sit. I couldn't even get the screws reasonably tight and the nyloc nut would start spinning inside the housing because it was stripped. I think that slightly harder plastics and/or tighter tolerances could rectify this. I'd happily pay an extra $20-40 for better quality plastics.
The car is also quite heavy, presumably because of the generous use of steel in the kit. Noticeably heavier than my MP9, MBX7 and D812. Just to give you an example, with identical equipment, my Dnx8 is a whopping 130 grams heavier than my stock Hotbodies D812--and the Durango has 70% of its screws/nuts replaced with titanium hardware!! That's the weight of 2 servos. I dare think that it could stand to be lightened here and there, and while there are arguments to made about how some of the heft helps the car handle better, it's also very hard to dispute that all other things being equal, a lighter car is a faster car.
Overall, I love the DNX8 even if it needs a bit of elbow grease here and there. I think that with a few minor adjustments, it can be everything that a racer could ask for.
-Most of the sub-assemblies were respectably well built, even the shocks although the shock action is not quite as smooth as my Hotbodies shocks and I'm thinking that the molded pistons may be the culprit. If there are machined aftermarket pistons that will fit that someone could recommend it would be appreciated.
-Had to avoid over-tightening the screws (top and bottom) that hold the servo-saver assembly to the chassis or it will bind. Wondering if shims might help?
-The lower brake cam lever touches the center diff gear during normal operation, so I need to make some adjustments.
-I think that the springs are a bit too short as they float loose between the shock collar and spring cup when the collars are all the way at the top.
-I think that one of the ring gears on my diffs may be slightly warped: when I turn the drive shaft for the rear diff, half the turn is smooth, the other half of the turn is notchy. Difs themselves are buttery smooth in their action.
-Plastics: some components are molded in a very soft plastic which irks me because unlike a firm plastic that you will feel a slight resistance when your screw is acceptably tight, some of the ones in the DNX8 (wing mount, radio tray posts, lower front arms) are so soft that there is almost no perceptible difference between acceptably tight and stripped! I had to use CA glue to rejuvenate some threads in the wing mount, as well as the housings where the m4 nuts that secure the rear brace to the gearbox sit. I couldn't even get the screws reasonably tight and the nyloc nut would start spinning inside the housing because it was stripped. I think that slightly harder plastics and/or tighter tolerances could rectify this. I'd happily pay an extra $20-40 for better quality plastics.
The car is also quite heavy, presumably because of the generous use of steel in the kit. Noticeably heavier than my MP9, MBX7 and D812. Just to give you an example, with identical equipment, my Dnx8 is a whopping 130 grams heavier than my stock Hotbodies D812--and the Durango has 70% of its screws/nuts replaced with titanium hardware!! That's the weight of 2 servos. I dare think that it could stand to be lightened here and there, and while there are arguments to made about how some of the heft helps the car handle better, it's also very hard to dispute that all other things being equal, a lighter car is a faster car.
Overall, I love the DNX8 even if it needs a bit of elbow grease here and there. I think that with a few minor adjustments, it can be everything that a racer could ask for.
05-09-2015, 07:52 PM
#267
Tech Addict
Does anyone know the part number for the small bleed screws in the shocks or know what size it is? Thank you
