ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

I'll see if I can take some measurements off my WC later. If anything, you can run the Dragon Racing SP2 chassis from off Ebay. I have one and it works just fine. Some said it was soft and tweaks easy, but I can say that the stock WC one was no better, since it had a dent in it that touched the ring gear on my diff. I actually placed the DR chassis against the stock WC and its demensions are exactly the same. Ony the top milling-out is slightly different.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

That DR chassis is certainly a better deal.

I have the Racer's Edge braces so at least front to rear I am sure it will be fine. Tweaking side to side may be an issue with it but aside for those pimpy high-dollar ergal pieces they all have the ability to tweak. However at $30 I'd have to tweak the shit out of a lot of them to equal the cost of the Kyosho SP2 chassis.

And to be honest with you, my local track is closer in size and width to a 10th scale track so that added length may actually slow the car down a little. Length adds to stability but decreases turning radius slightly assuming everything else is equal. I am betting that in the whole big scheme of things I'd be better off taking the money I would spend on the SP2 chassis/center shafts and putting it towards big bore shocks.

SkarTisu

iTrader: (8)

I nearly bought the SP1 chassis and center universals to try that chassis layout. I decided not to at the last second because I realized I don't have the time to engineer a whole new setup for that chassis. I imagine that car would work well on smaller indoor tracks if someone sunk the time into making the car work well.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

I think on braces, it will depend on the track as the stiff metal braces and the stock braces will give the chassis different flexing which is actually a tuning feature. If you look at the RC8, it has a certain amount of flex from the braces. If the track is smooth with high grip, then a stiff would be the way to go. For loose, bumpy, you may want more flex to get the car to grip better and be more drivable. It will also come down to driving style.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

The braces are definitely a tuning feature BUT the track I run on is rough and my car is set up real well for it even with those big fat stiff braces I have so I am not entirely sure how noticeable braces would be. I am betting you could probably tune around them with other things in all but the most extreme cases.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

I can also tell you that I am basically running a default setup in regards to shock/link/pivot positions and the car works quite well that way. Even with the shorter chassis I can still really lean on it and it rewards the driver who pushes it hard. I still believe that the added length of the SP2/WC is probably a non-issue on all but the biggest and fastest tracks.

To be honest with you, I have been racing 8th scale for 10 years now and I almost never change shock or camber link positions. All my setups work around diff oil, shock oil, springs/ride height and camber/toe changes.

The single best change I made to my car in terms of getting it freed up and really responding to inputs was the 3 degree rear lower pivot block.

If I hadn't just posted my spare MP777 up for sale I would have donated an original, never used 777 chassis to you for testing purposes.

buboy28

hi, would like to know if the SP2 already have big bore shocks and if not, if i buy those big bore shocks aside from the shock springs that i have to buy seperately is there other parts that i have to buy to convert into big bore shocks, thanks and sorry for too many questions

Powerlink

you will need http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14937 and http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14933

buboy28

thanks for the link already ordered the items from A-Main Hobbies

KLANDERMAN

Hey you guys!!! I have the MP 777 WC and was wondering if the chassis is differents as that of the SP2? Also wanted to know what the best silicon oil for the shocks are.... I race in a dry track and it seams hard packed. Thanks.
KLANDERMAN

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

The SP2 and WC are the same chassis. I prefer Mugen shocks oils, but Kyosho are just as good. Just keep the same brand and stick to it, as one brand of 700 cps or whatever, will not be the same as another brand in most cases.

Miller1

iTrader: (38)

Getting ready to place an order for big bore shocks for my 777 sp2..i have heard that you need Kyosho Light Weight Front Universal Swing Shaft and i heard you didnt..any help? whats the best brake set up for it?

Dave.H

iTrader: (2)

WC brakes.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

The big bores run very close to the front axles, so the lightweights should be installed. As for brakes, install the Acre brake pads and slotted rotors.

Powerlink

+ 1