Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree100Likes

Mugen MBX7R

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-11-2017, 02:45 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Mugen MBX7R
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: E1 Diablo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-03-2015, 09:02 AM
  #1411  
Tech Fanatic
 
tom1974's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: la maddalena italy
Posts: 970
Default

Originally Posted by Graham11
So just ordered the mbx7r and I see everyone talking about 6x1.3 pistons, aluminum rear hubs, extra weights, and different gear ratio in rear diff? Is all of this recommended or is stock equipment fine?
Stock is Very Good!!!!
The important optional are +1mm or + 2mm
tom1974 is offline  
Old 06-03-2015, 09:05 AM
  #1412  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 52
Default

On my local track I have the same issues. The cars feels like a rwd and not like a 4wd. But in the last weeks, I ran the car on other tracks and the car felt very good. I think the standard setup is made for medium to high grip tracks. My local track is very low grip. I made some changes and it is better now, but still there is some room for improvements. Actually I'm running 7-7-5 but I think i will give to 10-10-5 a try. I think what Mugendraw said sounds logical for me.
Millord is offline  
Old 06-03-2015, 10:36 AM
  #1413  
Tech Fanatic
 
tom1974's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: la maddalena italy
Posts: 970
Default

If You use 10/7/5 the car is more Easy. ...
tom1974 is offline  
Old 06-03-2015, 03:25 PM
  #1414  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (94)
 
rider313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 4,436
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

10/7/5 made the car have a very mild/lame turn in and exit was very inconsistent and just plain weard. It drove almost like a front wheel drive car.

5/5/3 had a useable amount of turn in and made the exit very predictable. On low grip all they way up to high grip.

High grip high speed flowing tracks 7/7/4 would be better.
rider313 is offline  
Old 06-03-2015, 04:36 PM
  #1415  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (47)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 304
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rider313
10/7/5 made the car have a very mild/lame turn in and exit was very inconsistent and just plain weard. It drove almost like a front wheel drive car.

5/5/3 had a useable amount of turn in and made the exit very predictable. On low grip all they way up to high grip.

High grip high speed flowing tracks 7/7/4 would be better.
Hay Dan what springs do you guys run on low grip tracks
klujan1001 is offline  
Old 06-03-2015, 10:58 PM
  #1416  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (94)
 
rider313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 4,436
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

The stock kit springs are a great starting point on low grip. Going to a touch stiffer rear black "10.25" isn't a bad choice either.
rider313 is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 02:08 AM
  #1417  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 52
Default

I'm wondering if anybody else has the problem, that the fuel tank will be destroyed by the CFRP upper plate. I have two damaged fuel tanks yet.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX7R-1433408666907.jpg  
Millord is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 02:48 AM
  #1418  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 608
Default

Originally Posted by Millord
I'm wondering if anybody else has the problem, that the fuel tank will be destroyed by the CFRP upper plate. I have two damaged fuel tanks yet.
Millord, thats normal due to flex of the chassis at hard landings etc..
no need to change the tank here..
gt racing is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 07:20 AM
  #1419  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Germany, Bad Salzuflen
Posts: 55
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Millord
I'm wondering if anybody else has the problem, that the fuel tank will be destroyed by the CFRP upper plate. I have two damaged fuel tanks yet.
No need to worry here, my fuel tank looks WAY worse but it's working, working, working.
piga96 is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 11:15 AM
  #1420  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (34)
 
Brian C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Twain Harte, Ca
Posts: 914
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Millord
I'm wondering if anybody else has the problem, that the fuel tank will be destroyed by the CFRP upper plate. I have two damaged fuel tanks yet.
Same look on mine but no performance issues through about 10 races since I first noticed the issue. I've since installed the longer front chassis brace and I feel that the top plate isn't hitting the tank anymore.
Brian C is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 11:47 AM
  #1421  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
skrichter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 894
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I'm new to Mugen. But, not new to 1/8 (been racing for over 20 years)

I noticed there is a significant amount of bumpsteer when at full travel, either full droop or when shock is compressed. I'm at 104mm of droop in front.

Is this the nature of the beast w/Mugen? Or are you adding shims under the steering knuckle or rack?

Loving the car so far!
skrichter is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 12:29 PM
  #1422  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 52
Smile

Thanks for your comments regarding the fuel tank. I was on our track the whole day. Even if I still have the feeling, the setup is not perfect on corner exits, I realized that I had the fastest lap time of all. So I'm closer to the maximum than expected.
Still difficult to drive, but if you are concentrated very fast. My old serpent was easy to drive, but never that fast. But I think it's better to learn how to control a fast car than to try to make a slow car fast
Millord is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 02:27 PM
  #1423  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 102
Default

Originally Posted by skrichter
I'm new to Mugen. But, not new to 1/8 (been racing for over 20 years)

I noticed there is a significant amount of bumpsteer when at full travel, either full droop or when shock is compressed. I'm at 104mm of droop in front.

Is this the nature of the beast w/Mugen? Or are you adding shims under the steering knuckle or rack?

Loving the car so far!
Ive just left it as is i keep my droop at 104 as well . I do run my shocks a bit stiffer tho . 9.0 fr and 10 rear springs
fgnewbie is offline  
Old 06-04-2015, 04:11 PM
  #1424  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
skrichter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 894
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fgnewbie
Ive just left it as is i keep my droop at 104 as well . I do run my shocks a bit stiffer tho . 9.0 fr and 10 rear springs
When I am referring to bumpsteer, its how the wheels move through the progression of the shock travel. When at full droop or full compression, they toe out quite a bit. Usually this is resolved via shims under the knuckle or steering rack.

But maybe this is accepted w/the Mugen?
skrichter is offline  
Old 06-05-2015, 07:45 AM
  #1425  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 102
Default

Originally Posted by skrichter
When I am referring to bumpsteer, its how the wheels move through the progression of the shock travel. When at full droop or full compression, they toe out quite a bit. Usually this is resolved via shims under the knuckle or steering rack.

But maybe this is accepted w/the Mugen?
yes this is quite normal.
fgnewbie is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.