STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Body painted and engine going into car. Just have to get different pistons and the rear 40g weight for Saturdays first run. The plastics had a ton of flashing on them though. Hope the car is money for me once I get the new car break in out of the way Saturday.

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Why are you going with weights out the box? Just curious since NO ONE runs weights around me and I don't feel a need for them either....

gt racing

exactly.
same with +5mm rear upper shock stands, why in the h+++ are they using this?

so much placebo "option" parts around, itīs ridiculous...

example:
- top driver who does not wrench/set-up his own car
- take out 20gr rear weight or +5mm shock standoffs without telling him between 2 qualifiers
- will he take notice?
i donīt think so...

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'm just going with what is suggested by my local fast guys in my area. The weight was noticeable on my Losi so I Dont see what this would be any different.

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

If you cant feel the difference between 0 and 40g weight in the rear your not paying attention enough

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

He most definitely would notice something . He may not say to you "the car feels like you added 20gr of weight to it " , but he would say "something is different, it doesn't react like it did before".

The weight is noticeable , and nice when my track isn't fully grooved in yet. When it has the dry dusty powder on top the weight is nice. Once the groove comes in , or we run the track wet at all I usually take it off.

1/8 IC Fan

iTrader: (102)

+1, You will most definitely notice the difference if you wheel enough! it's just like when you notice the tires are losing grip because they are worn etc. I noticed the weight more on the truggy, as also the brass pillow ball retainers from M2C.

And as far as placebo' I doubt Mugen is going to throw in a bunch of unproven items into a chassis. Also Drake, Davide, and Battle all wrench on there cars, some more than others.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Car is dialed and carries nice corner speed compared to my old 3.0. The clutch was a pain compared to the Losi but it works great. Got a lot of tanks run through it yesterday. A few guys drove it and complimented the feel. Now to clean it up and get it read for practice on the 19th.


What are your thoughts on a 3 vs 4 shoe clutch? The 3 seems to have a bit more bottom end pop to me compared to my losi 4 shoe with the same motor and pipe. Some at the track say the 4 has more bottom end pop.

Sideshow Bob

the standoffs should probably be used to get the vertical shock geometry better when you run longest settings on rear arm in conjunction with the longest on the rear hub. think about it...when you push everything back as far as you can in the bottom...the top mounting position of the shock still stays the same so increase the angle of the rear shock....probably creating an sub optimal geometry of shock travel etc. hence the +5mm standoffs to compensate for this?. similarly, im sure should you try these out on the shortest wheelbase setting in the rear, thus increasing the angle of the shock in that plain, the "bind/ resistance created could perhaps have a desirable effect too?

I felt ill mention it because the agama A215 comes with a similar option but in the form af a spacer you place between the rear tower and rear bulkhead to achieve the same thing. (EDIT: Although the spacer also moves the rear links to a optimal setting perhaps...all speculation lol) IMO...at least they are thinking about this as a possible issue..so the option is there should you feel the need to get it all nice and plush at different settings

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

I didn't really like the Mugen four shoe. Is it better than the three, yes. But I switched to the reds Quattro and have wayyyy better bottom and mid!!!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

hat didn't you like about the Mugen four shoe?

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

It was very soft on bottom end regardless the springs I used. I tried it on my Adam drake edition nova motor and my reds r7

mrosique

Hi friends, perhaps this topic was already wrote, but I cannot read more than 2,000 posts in this thread (!!!).

Steering Ackerman position

The steering ackerman has got 5 holes. The manual suggests to use the hole in the middle. A guy told me the best option to drive smother is to use the 5th hole (counting the 1st from the front of the car) since I am a beginner I need a smooth reaction when I drive the car.

Is it true the 5th hole helps to drive easily? How the car reactions change in the steering ackerman positions?

Thanks in advance!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

What combo are you running with your reds? I see it has a H & L setting as well as a shoe preference.

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Running the high setting with the two alum. Two composite.