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Old 04-01-2014, 11:56 AM
  #841  
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Originally Posted by jbranham50
I will be at HARC next weekend @ Mike's.
Thanks, Ill be there, prob wont race since i dont have the new car yet, but will be there to spectate. Gonna reach out to Jeremy to order me one this week.

Also found this.

http://www.thercshack.com/xra355061f...ter-long2.aspx

Text straight from the site.

Item Number: XRA355061
Manufacturer: Xray
Manufacturer Part No: 355061
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Diff outdrive adapters for front/rear differential made of HUDY Spring Steel™. Special enlongated design secures the drive shafts so they do not fall out in heavy jumps when using the new longer arms. Strongly recommended for use in front when using the new long arms. Set of 2.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:49 PM
  #842  
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Those are xt9 out drives. They should solve the problem. If you are using 13x16 shims to shim the diff they have to be cut as they will not fit over the outdrive.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:51 PM
  #843  
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Just finished our XB8 we are taking it out to the season opener at LCRC in Oakland Mills, PA to test her out for the first time!
https://www.facebook.com/johnny.lai.148#

Last edited by the heat mizzr; 04-01-2014 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:02 PM
  #844  
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the truggy outdrives are perfect

Here's a pic of them on the buggy without the shock with the compression as far as the car will allow. Its about 15mm more up travel than when the shock is mounted. I also have 1 pills in and the 1mm spacers removed in this picture. Its as deep as I can get the shaft to sit into the outdrive.
They only just start to touch the inside of the outdrive at this point. When the shock is mounted there is plenty of clearance. There will also be more clearance when I go back to 0 pills and put the spacer back.
Xray XB8-20140402_074854.jpg

Its a lot hotter here than it is in North America and Europe. The arm plastics are just flexing that bit more allowing the shaft to pop out
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:04 PM
  #845  
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Originally Posted by TIX
the truggy outdrives are perfect

Here's a pic of them on the buggy without the shock with the compression as far as the car will allow. Its about 15mm more up travel than when the shock is mounted. I also have 1 pills in and the 1mm spacers removed in this picture. Its as deep as I can get the shaft to sit into the outdrive.
They only just start to touch the inside of the outdrive at this point. When the shock is mounted there is plenty of clearance. There will also be more clearance when I go back to 0 pills and put the spacer back.
Attachment 1183238

Its a lot hotter here than it is in North America and Europe. The arm plastics are just flexing that bit more allowing the shaft to pop out
Thanks a lot.. Look like I need order some of those..
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:55 PM
  #846  
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just be aware that if you use the long outdrives, you have to snip the shims so you can spread them apart to fit over the bell on the end when shimming the diff
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:04 PM
  #847  
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Originally Posted by TIX
just be aware that if you use the long outdrives, you have to snip the shims so you can spread them apart to fit over the bell on the end when shimming the diff
Thanks will do just that.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:07 PM
  #848  
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Just my opinion, but I'm not sure changing outdrives is necessary. If you run the suspension bushings inside and down, where most of the team runs them, the dogbones are deep enough in the cup so that they don't pop out.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:32 PM
  #849  
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Just finished building my second xb8, the new batch obviously, as the front diff case and back are all in one bag, as well as the front pillow ball different machining. So there is no difference between front and rear diff cases, case closed.

Still have to come across the universal shaft popping out issue, none so far, and running stock settings, by any chance the ones who popped out, are your upper arm bushings inwards, center or out am guessing most likely some have them center.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:35 PM
  #850  
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Originally Posted by shesha
Just finished building my second xb8, the new batch obviously, as the front diff case and back are all in one bag, as well as the front pillow ball different machining. So there is no difference between front and rear diff cases, case closed.

Still have to come across the universal shaft popping out issue, none so far, and running stock settings, by any chance the ones who popped out, are your upper arm bushings inwards, center or out am guessing most likely some have them center.
Mine are inwards, same as my friends which also have the same problem.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:39 PM
  #851  
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Originally Posted by TV
Just my opinion, but I'm not sure changing outdrives is necessary. If you run the suspension bushings inside and down, where most of the team runs them, the dogbones are deep enough in the cup so that they don't pop out.

Why is the team running the front suspension blocks down and in? To minimize bones falling out or for handling purposes?
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:42 PM
  #852  
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Originally Posted by TV
Just my opinion, but I'm not sure changing outdrives is necessary. If you run the suspension bushings inside and down, where most of the team runs them, the dogbones are deep enough in the cup so that they don't pop out.
That's more of a temporary fix. Not everyone wants to run that position on the pills.

I have mine in on the FF and in and down on the FR for more kick up on the rough track. I haven't dropped a drive shaft but know people who have. I have heaps of truggy outdrives so ill just play it safe
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:18 PM
  #853  
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Originally Posted by jbranham50
I will be at HARC next weekend @ Mike's.
I will too Marcus, im not gonna race mine but ill have it with me.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:22 PM
  #854  
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Originally Posted by fullout
Why is the team running the front suspension blocks down and in? To minimize bones falling out or for handling purposes?
Just gives the car a little more steering; narrower and a lower roll center.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:54 PM
  #855  
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Originally Posted by TIX
I measured it a while ago. I'm pretty sure the 1 pills are around 1.4mm of movement. The .5 pills are about .7mm. So your right a 1mm offset hex would be alright.
I meant to say remove the 1mm spacer and move the pills to get 2mm and use a 2mm hex.

Different upper link locations will also affect the driveshaft plunge.
So If I will be using my plus 2mm hex I have to move my pill inwards and removed the silver shim? I am sure it has some effects on the handling but maybe I wont even feel it.
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