I am fortunate because I race with Brian who is head of Sales for Buku and has taught me how to set it up and use properly. I havent had any slipping or over heating issues. I use staggered settings. Honestly, like i said i think a lot of guys have bad experiences because they use old bells or dont set them properly because mine have been great!

So here is the message I missed...sorry buddy !

Basically initially you want to bed the shoes in...take the car and pin it to the ground, then give several 2 second burst of throttle... do this roughly 8 times in a row... Then start driving the car around ..being careful not to do any dead stop full power bursts... Just drive the car around slowly at lower throttle for a couple of tanks.. The lower throttle allows the clutch to slip some and wear itself into the bell.......If you try to go too hard too fast you will just overheat and melt the clutch.... The goal of the breakin is to match the radius of the clutchbell with the clutch shoes..when the shoes are new they don't fit the bell overly well and have a very small contact patch... the brak will wear the shoes down in a controlled manner untill they have a full contact patch.......... I found the Tekno shoes required a fair amount of breakin till they set in properly..initially they slipped very badly when I tried to get on the juice..but after a couple of breakin tanks the clutch was holding fast and providing killer performance.......

Thanks a lot. Now i know why my shoes went away too fast on NB48: lack of break-in and excessive amount of bearing oil into clutch bearings. Seems nitro offroad has more deeper learning curve than i expected.

Does anyone no were I can get the rear toe plate part number TKR5013C every where I look is out of stock.

I must of got the last one from coast 2 coast.

Please hurry up tekno with spur gears.8 tanks and showing a lot of wear already.I set mesh according to their suggestions,tighter mesh,2mm spacers under diff mounts and even shimmed front to back play on diff to help keep wear down.No help!
Also second new tank showing crack on lid mount base,not leaking yet.
Post up if you have had tese issues.

I've had two solid club races now with my Serpent centre diff and it is rock solid. I tq'd for the 30 min main. Had 2 flameouts unfortunately but still came third. I was only 16 seconds behind the leader on the same lap. I love this truck.

My new tekno NT48 has finally arrived and after being lapped what felt like 100 times by XT8TTruggy's tekno in the final I can't wait I finished 6th which wasn't too bad considering I lost my exhaust and was out for 5 laps but his tekno was amazing if he didn't flame out he would have won by easy 2 laps his truggy was the most dialled I have ever seen a truggy I hope mine brings me the same enjoyment that he is getting out of his what a truck and what a drive awesome well done XT8T

Looks like someone's going to be having a couple of late nights?

Did the serpent diff bolt in?

Yes it did. I just had to put shims behind the diff bearings as I used the Tekno out drives. You can buy the parts here in Australia from Walter RC Hobbies. Much cheaper than Amain. Plus with the dollar conversion makes it cheaper again.

Which diff buggy or truggy

I'm using an 811T V1 diff with V1 internal diff gears. I had that spare from my 811T. I just had to buy the 48T spur. You could use the V2 diff and gears as well.
Like I've said I've had 2 race meets with this setup and it's been rock solid. I feel so confident in this truck as everything else is so tough.

Thanks.Just ordered one off eBay truggy 50.Hope it clears.

No problem it should clear if your using the thicker spaces. It's not the ideal solution to be spending money on a new Truggy to fix the problem. But for me it works and I no I can finish races. Tekno will have a stronger spur coming out soon enough.