Yea the Paloma limited is a beast!

So first day out wasn't bad, I was disappointed on how quick the clutch wore, there were aluminum deposits on the inside of the bell which was a concern. I broke it in just like every other clutch and it was acting a little strange but then came around so I didn't think anything of it until I blew it all apart to check everything. I also broke a left side mud guard, all this after about 5 tanks. There was a stake hanging out that I didn't see and I was full wood down the back and it jumped up and caught my mid hairs and ripped it right off. Other than the obvious I didn't have slot of trouble driving it. There's ALOT of room for improvement with this truck for me, I'm sure it'll come around with chassis changes. Besides the build being weird and the box clutch being junk I really can't complain.

The stock clutch is not "junk" Its just a typical Losi style clutch and they take quite a while to break in.
It takes time to "shape" the shoes to the inside of the bell or your only running on a very small part of the shoe.

The stock clutch is not junk. It does take a little bit to break in, but far from junk. How was the build "weird?" Tekno kits are some of the most well thought out and best designed kits out right now. Their manuals are hands down the best in the business.

The only "junk" for me were the mudguards. I replaced them twice, but won't be buying them anymore. They get ripped apart after a few tanks.

The reason I say I don't like the stock clutch is because after 5 tanks the shoes show quite a bit of wear for only 5 tanks. There were chunks of deposited aluminum from the shoes on the bell. I didn't feel like it was a consistent clutch. Maybe I'm just so used to Mugen and a werks clutch it was very different. I say the build was weird mostly because Ive been running Mugen for so long and built so many of them I personally had to re-learn the build process with a different brand. I feel like the plastics used for the mud guards is either just a bad batch making the plastics brittle, or a poor design only having 3 attachment points to the chassis. I cannot complain about how the truck drives, besides the clutch feeling different than what I'm used too I was able to run the same lap times within a 2 tanks on the box stock setup that I was running with my Mugen(after extensive changes from box stock). It just seems like the radio tray screws were too short on top, I'd love to see a larger cut out on the top of the a-arms so the steering rod end attachment hardware didn't have to "wear in" to the arm when at full droop. I'd also love too see stronger left side mud guards, and some changes with the radio tray hardware. Other than that I dig the truck, it's reactive, seems to love being driven hard, rotates great (I personally will be making some changes for more on power steering, just the way I drive) the adjustability of this truck is awesome, the strength of everything except the left side mud guard is awesome, I will attach some pictures of the clutch after 5 tanks of driving on a medium grip, medium size track with no abnormal amounts of wheel spin. Please chime in and tell me I'm judging this clutch wrong and why, I've never driven this "Losi" style clutch. I chose to switch to TEKNO for many reasons, all in all I can't say I'm dis-pleased with the truck. I've driven a lot worse out of the box trucks. In my opinion a few small changes would make this the absolute best out of the box truggy on the market today.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...78FCE63943.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...DDED27F4DE.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...DEF73B70C7.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...BDB1F1B026.jpg
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http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...76ECBFD6AA.jpg

On the manual topic, there were a few changes to the manual and mine wasn't updated. I had to reach out to a sponsored driver and look up the online manual to get the answers I needed I'll post the pictures of the differences. But I agree the manuals is great as far as break down/ 1-1 with the hardware pictures etc. other than the one page that caught me off guard I did appreciate the time they put into design of their manuals.
This is the online manual
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...203510E1A8.png
My manual in the box
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...378C137B5B.jpg
I had 2 different sizes of spacers for the center diff supports, which I'm sure everyone gets. I just didn't know which ones to use the online manual had the added illustrations explaining which ones to use and why(spur obviously). Once I read that I felt rather dumb, being that this isn't my first rodeo I should of been able to figure that out.

Damn that does look like a lot of wear just after 5 tanks. Try a losi clutch and see if same thing happens. I can send you a used one if you don't have one.

I have to admit, in truggy, I am seeing fast wear on the clutch shoes too - faster than what I initially remember especially with the shoes on the softer spring. If the red springs would easily go into the dynamite losi style clutch shoes, I would run them. I like the way the dynamite shoes wear. Just a pain getting the springs in them.

The werks clutch has always worn very slowly for me so I am gonna run that this weekend with brand new shoes and bell and see what happens. I ordered 2 of the lutz Rc clutch packs (3shoe) I'll try those too.

bigbenmbx7t, looks like you might have the bell shimmed a little too far out. Looks like the shoes do not have wear on a portion. Also if aluminum is being deposited on the bell the clutch is probably slipping too much, causing excessive heat and melting the shoes. Could be the shimming (mentioned above) or grease from the bearings might be causing the shoes to slip. Definitely recommend looking into anything that could cause excessive slippage.

I thought it was shimmed to far out as well, I took the only shin that was before the rear bell bearing out and it still didn't touch the far rear portion of the shoe, Maybe I'll try another rear bell bearing and see if it fits better. All the Losi clutched I've seen create that same ledge on the far rear portion of the shoe. But thanks for the input. I dremel'd the bell with a wire brush, I'll see if it wears into the werks shoes the same way on Friday. If I have time I'll swap back to the TEKNO clutch between qualifiers and see how it acts with the bell being worn in better.

Also recommend scuffing the flywheel where it sits on the collet. You can use sand paper lightly or scotchbright. We have seen in some conditions where the flywheel can slip on the collet and cause excessive heat which could cause the shoes to wear prematurely.

Day 2 with the truck was much better, the werks clutch was much better, I'll be trying the stock clutch again this weekend to see if has a little more aggressive engagement. I'm going to shorten the wheelbase and thicken the diff fluid in the front for more on power steering. A few more changes and I'm gonna love this truck.

Good deal on the original NT48 kit on Tower
 

Hey guys, just in case anyone is interested Tower has the NT48 kit for $325 before Super Saver Club coupons and e-cash promo..I just picked one up at a mighty fine price after stacking up the promos! I might not even build it and just keep it as a parts box for my ET48 and NT48.3 kit :lol:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEBHY&P=ML