Drake ran a 2.0 at the DNC (going by DNC pics)
The Mugen What - the re released bling car?
No matter where its made. I think for TLR the truck as always been more than buggies. Remember the buggy is alreayd $700......

Sorry, Ive have not had a issue with diffs since the 2.0 came out. Take your time and shim correctly and you will not have a problem, when it clicks reshim. I know ALOT of people with 2.0s and rear diffs is never a conversation at the track...

I run a electric 8t 2.0. I've used 2200 kv, 2000 kv and am currently running a 1750 kv on 4 cell. I have never stripped rear gears in the two years I've been running truggy.

Ya guys I don't think a new truggy will be released, I mean all you have to do is look at the competition.

Mugen - last one was relased with just different body and looks, but is still a few years old

Hot Bodies - No clue, but I know it has been out for a while

Kyosho - St-r to st-rr = stretched chassis and slightly stronger axles, st-rr to st-rr evo body difference, thats it.

Associated - other than the body swap, aluminum parts, and adjustable bushings hasn't changed in a few years

Losi - only one with a decent change between the 1 and 2, but still has been out for a while.

Basically none of the top brands are doing anything with truggy, so I doubt anything will change this year.

considering you can't buy a 2.0 truggy anymore i would hope they would come out with something soon (i am shocked they have not came out with anything yet).

If there is NOTHING wrong with the diff then why do so many people have troubles?????? Token we have both been on the Losi forum for a long time and for you to say there is nothing wrong with the diff is total BS. MANY people have troubles with the gears, the case is too thin and it gets hot so you have to reshim all the time, they even made aluminum diff inserts because clearly they know there IS a problem in the diff area. Mugen, Xray and Kyosho do NOT have to constantly reshim by pushing the diff to one side. Clearly if you have to keep reshimming to one side there IS an issue or a design flaw, why is it that when I put my Buggy diffs in my truggy this problem STOPPED????????? There IS a difference between the two and it is not ONLY teeth

I sent in a video to Adam when I shimmed my truggy diff, All new PARTS, HE SAID IT WAS PERFECT It didn't even last a single race before it started skipping.

I now run Buggy diffs front and rear and I have made it over 6 gallons without even having to replace the bearings yet.

there is nothing wrong with the losi rear diffs, iv read over n over on so many threads how u keep on going n going about the losi diffs. shim it correct and you won't have problems. I don't want to sound rude and by no means am I trying to be rude but iv driven my practice truggy for years now and I haven't had to ever use my spare diff n pinion. Literally I have rust on my gears from years of cleaning with water and still no issues. The biggest thing is you have to start fresh with new parts, shim it correctly and u won't have issues. If your using new parts and your going threw diffs in 20 minutes of your first run you cannot possibly be building it right, period! Maybe u should have someone else build it, hell send me your diff and the housing and the pinion and ill build it and send it back to you. The buggy diffs in your truggy is not ideal for gearing it just isn't right your losing performance.

I switched to the 1.0 diff case and installed the aluminum rear support and haven't had any problems since... (Knock on wood)

The aluminum inserts seem to have fixed the problem for 99% of the people out there, but there is an exception to every rule. If you are still having problems I suggest you replace every part of the rear. The gearbox, bearings, inserts, gears and diff case. If you still have problems after that then you need to have someone else shim them for you.

If you take the time to drill out the horizontal mounts on the bottom of the gear box and the hinge pin holders, you can use a straight through bolt like those used on Mugens. I locks down the case so it does not try to separate. When some of our very fast locals were running Losi this seemed to help a lot.

TEX

There really is no need to mod stuff, just be on top of your diff shimming n it always works out. Another tip is when building the rear diff don't try and get clustered with having the arms on. Just take it all apart and just use the case the diff and the pinion and the cvd. This way u can have an accurate feel when u hold the out drives and rock the part that holds the Pinion back n forth. U just need a minor tight spot when it's new and it will break in nicely.

This thread needs to go away.

Why?

Since the 8T 2.0, I have never just ruined a diff in my truck. Do it click sometimes, yes.... I reshim and Im fine. I have never had any reason to try a buggy diff. The Losi truck is the most popular truck here, and like I said, its not a conversation at the tracks we race at. Our tracks are huge and very demanding, yet no complaints. Most read post, follow advise and all is fine. Correct, we both been on the other site, but bud, you are the only person that complains about the diff, ALL the time, when anyone mentions Losi. I guess, Im just lucky as heck, not to have issues.. Heck, I just ran my truck Sunday, for the first time since last year. I did not check anything.. No problems with the diff.. just sayin... Oh if the diff was that big of a concern, we would have seen something different with the 3.0 as they diff cases are generally shared between the two.

Losi has to come out with some kind of truck, cause they are not being sold right now...

The title is miss leading and makes you click to see what its about. They also have a whole thread about the 8T 2.0 to talk about the so called diff problem.