The 227x's are Savox's brushless line. To me, they seem a step up in terms of quality over the usual Savox servos you always hear people complaining about. I run 2274's in my NB48 (only car of mine left with Savox's, been trying other brands), same servos Ty Tessman uses... Never had a problem with mine.

I can only suggest the usual stuff. Check your end points, make sure nothings binding, etc. The 2271 is a very quick servo at 0.06sec. Maybe try a slightly torquier servo like the 2274, and trade off some servo speed, you really don't need, and won't be able to tell.

Thanks for the input. I haven't had time yet to check the car over. Will be doing that tonight. I have an 1270tg that I was going to put in for this weekends point race. It has a lot more torque but is much slower. Hope that it isn't to slow.

servp issues
 

are you noticing any rock in the radio tray itself. Losi have the same problem
untill I built a radio tray stiffener for them. Also the plastic servo horn could be flexing.
Does the brakes tend to fade in the longer mains?
I am coming out with an aluminum servo horn as soon as I get them back
from anodizing.

I did not notice any rocks.
I will keep an eye out when I tear it down.
Will the servo horn be an exact copy as far as geometry goes?

yes

They are good when new, but after a couple races, better change them... I moved from Radiopost to Savox, but moved on after a couple months... I used the 2272...

I checked over the linkage again and everything moves freely.
I removed the second servo and you could smell the magic electrical smoke and the bottom of the servo was melted and bubbled out.
It got very hot for some reason.

Can anyone confirm/decline that it's ok to put fiberglass brake discs (TKR5206) along with reversed std. NB48 brake pads (clean metal to disc, original pad material removed).
Or i'll ask from such point of view: does NB pads (TKR5314) are just steel pads (TKR5214) with material on it?

All, need some advice. Is there any benefit of purchasing a new NT48.3 kit as opposed to upgrading a NT48 to .3 specs?

Depends. How worn is your old kit, do you have someone you can sell it to, etc? The NT48.3 indeed has upgrades, but it's not as intensive as the NB/EB .2->.3

Personally, most of mine was in very good condition still, so I just upgraded the components and replaced worn parts. New brake system, hinge pin system are both HUGE benefits. Personally at absolute minimum I would do those.

In the end, price it out and see what makes the most sense for you, honestly.

The buggy is in great shape, I did price it out and it is considerably cheaper to upgrade all the parts to include the chassis.

Thanks Eric.

You posted NT, but then mention buggy in the next post, do you mean truck or buggy? If it's the buggy, there were a TON of changes and coming from original to .3 I would definitely buy new personally. Truggy, it could be bought new or upgrade, depends.

My apologies, it is a truggy NT48.

How is the NB compared to the EB because I'm thinking about getting into nitro?

Got it. Yes, I would do what I recommended then. FYI, this is the NT48 thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...48-thread.html

Hey Matt, these are the current EB48.3/NB48.3 thread, which will be what most people are watching. In the end, you can make them drive somewhat similar (with obvious differences in power curve), so it's all about what racing you have local and what you're most comfortable with.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...-3-thread.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-3-thread.html

I have both Eb48.2 and then NB love them both you wont be sad about going nitro

I realize that all of the cool kids have moved on from the EB/NB 48.1/.2 to the .3, but being cheap, I'm using the older models.

Has anyone run the JN2 rear suspension shims on the older models? I understand that they are supposed to make the .3 easier to drive on power with more corner speed.

The 1.5mm shim is pretty much specific for the EB48.3 and NB48.3 for the testing. I've heard of others testing on the SCT , .2's, and trucks, but that really is out of scope per say.

Most drivers that I've had contact with have been very happy with the .3 testing and the various aftermarket 1.5 spacers and using other smaller 1.5 shims.

I have 3DGY 1.5mm shims for both of the .3 vehicles and they are awesome. I haven't seen anyone use them on the older kits though.

I wanted to ask, are the bodies interchangable from NB48 to NB48.3. ?

Hi,


Yes, bodies are interchangeable. Just use the forward engine position for the NB48.3 . :)

will those shims still be as much of a tuning option with the new rear hubs? I haven't tried the shims yet but plan on buying the new hubs

Are you talking about the shims that guys were putting under the rear diff case? If so, the hubs are just a better way of accomplishing basically the same thing. Using both together might be too much of a change in most cases.

yes, that's what I was thinking too

Those that have had the NB48 version 1, had you had to clearance your chassis for the starterbox wheel? I have gotten a chassis, yet it has been beveled to accomodate one. I have a new replacement chassis on the way. Also what is the best size flywheel to run with the stock motor mount?

Thanks everyone

Some wheels were too big to fit into the cut out. The kyosho one fits perfectly. The Tekno, Reds or losi flywheel will fit. 34mm flywheels.

This is almost always the result of bad starter box aligment. You need to move the wheel over
(Not all boxes allow for this) so the highest point is in the chassis. What happens is the high
side of the wheel hits first and to allow the wheel more travel they gring on the chassis.

Not always the case actually. Some bump box wheels are simply too big to actually fit into the cut out. Which is why i had to change starter boxes as the one i originally bought, the wheel was too big to fit into the cut out.

Nb to EB conversion
 

Hey guys. Have a NB48.4. What do I need to convert to EB? Motor mount? Chassis? Thanks

So my flywheel nut came loose.

But the flywheel didn't come loose and needed, as usual, a flywheel puller to get it off.

Once off I noticed that inside of the flywheel that presses down on the collet was scored.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...aad4cbe13.jpeg


Is this ok to carry on with? As I say, the flywheel was tight on, just the nut was loose. Clutch bell was tight too.

Those scores imply that the collet slipped and spun inside of the flywheel. I think it will be fine so long as the nut is tight.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...34911df9b.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...5812ea2c2.jpeg

So went out last weekend and the same thing happened. Flywheel not loose. Need the puller to remove. But when I take the bell and bearings off I notice the nut has come loose.

I'll have to use more locktite on than I'm using I guess. Thing with loctite is it makes it harder to put on off the nut and will likely forces me to zip tie the head through the exhaust to stop the pinion rotating.

How often are you taking the flywheel on and off?

You shouldn’t need Loctite on your clutch nut. I’d replace the collet and clutch nut and see if that solves the problem.

I clean up the shoes and bell every race weekend. Im not taking the flywheel off typically, unless I'm going to properly clean and remove metal bits hanging off the shoes.

I'll go with a tad more loctite before I consider using my fresh collet, flywheel and nut. I've only put a gallon through it.

​​​​​Feel like I'm missing something obvious.

You said your clutch nut came loose previously. So, you have a loose nut on the end of a crankshaft that's spinning 30K+ RPM. Even though your flywheel stayed on you saw what the tiny bit of looseness from the clutch nut not being tight did to the inside of the flywheel. I doubt that crankshaft spinning inside the loose clutch nut did it any favors. That's my reason for suggesting you try another clutch nut and see if that fixes it. Cause one of these days when that nut works loose the flywheel IS going to come off and you're going to be WOT on an engine that suddenly has no load on it. Might not end well.

that's a good point! To be clear I'm fully listening to you.

I'm currently running 1 of 2 old engines donated to me by someone as the track. Still have some compression. But if it goes pop I don't care.

The nut, both times seems to have just backed off a little. I wonder if I have too little or two much bell play? Could it be expanding, compressing against the nut and then undoing?

I'm be sure to use a new flywheel collet and nut when I install my shiny new Blok.

Do you recommend scruffing up the collet and flywheel to remove some of the anodised coating of the flywheel to get better friction? It's a 2.0 flywheel by the way.

Clutch bell shimming shouldn't affect whether your clutch nut stays night. That shimming is mostly to keep the clutch bell off the flywheel and make sure the shoes are grabbing 100% of the bell. Shimming between the crankcase and flywheel I suppose could keep the clutch nut from grabbing enough threads to stay tight. Not likely though. Take a look at the threads on the clutch nut and crank and look for damage. More likely to be the clutch nut than the crank. Try another nut, if that doesn't work then maybe try another flywheel or try the other engine and see if it happens with that one also. So many things that can go wrong, both the joy and the pain of nitro. Keep with it, nothing like it when you get it right. Will put a big stupid grin on your face.

I've swopped engines this morning ready for next weekend. The other loaner.

Of course I'd put more locktite on the nut and getting it off was a nightmare as engine would turn over. Used zip ties which cut right through. Ended up putting the head of a zip tie in the sleeve, letting it stop the piston move up to get the nut off. I'll have to properly strip it down to make sure no plastics bit s are about.

So I'll see how I get on with the new engine. I have channel lock pliers and as hard as I could tightened the nut. So we will see next weekend.

I have it like this..

Rear engine bearing-2mm shim - 2mm shim (needed for proper mesh alignment) - collet - flywheel - nut - 0.1mm shim - bearing - bell - bearing 0.2shim - end screw (jt bearing clutch screw)

I havent put the smaller washer on the screw at the end..as it just adds more length. Not sure it's really needed?



I see