Check out the ko propo/Kyosho power switch, which is a little more expensive than the protek but it actually has a better battery meter and easier to tell before you get close to LVC. The protek and VRC pro power buttons only have two led and before a 30 minute main it may not be blinking the low level alert yet so you think you are fine but the ko propo and Kyosho button have a led light bar with multiple green, yellow and red light bar so you
Can tell easier when you should charge it. But if you are very dilligent about charging like it sounds roklem is then the protek is probably fine

Do note however, the electronics you use have quite a bit of impact on this. For example it's pretty well known in the electric community that many of the Savox servos have issues with lower end BEC's on ESC's due to very high draw. This obviously leads to faster depletion rates of your battery.

You are correct, sir! I didn't notice that before, but it does work perfectly, albeit with a fairly tight fit

So, I got up with my LHS, and they have a Venom 2100mAh..

Anyone have input on this one?

Rx lipos are basically all the same and aren't as important as an ebuggy lipo with high c rating, just buy something with over 2000 mah that you can get for less than $40.

I run the LRP and they are great as well as last a long time.

http://www.amain.com/lrp-vtec-2s-li-...700mah/p291957

For those considering a push button switch I put a protek switch on the nb48. Here is how I decided to mount it and the transponder. In the stock position the switch cord isn't long enough, at least I couldn't make it work. I guess you could put an extension on it, but that just seems like more stuff to come undone.

Top of the battery box for me. I put electrical tape over the normal power switch holes.

I looked at doing it that way Rok. I chose not too in the end because I didn't have any screws short enough and was worried about the screws rubbing against the receiver pack if they were to protrude from the bottom of the cover.

Anyone else having problems with the rear drive shafts bending? My fronts, and centers have held up great. The rears I have replace once and the new ones don't have but 2-3 races on them and they are already bent. Not enough to warrant replacement but I would think they should last longer than this.

Mines bent really fast also. I just bend them back and they are good to go.

What braces are you running?

Stock set up. Both rear braces, the center and front. What effect would chassis braces have on the rear drive shafts?

how much droop are you running? I haven't had any issues with my et, nt, eb, and nb as far as bending shafts.

Any chance of seeing a nb48.2 soon. I see that they just released the sct410.3 with new hinge pin blocks, new arms and towers, and other small things. So any chance these will carry over to the nb48 soon?