Look at post 1503.

So are you shims concaved like the pics in the post. Or are you just swapping out shims because your diff oil is black. Diff oil will turn dirty after a while.

Also which diff is causing issues for you. Front, center or rear.

Concaved like the pics in the post, center diff being the worst then the rear.

Hello,

We are working on getting replacement shims for those having the shim issue like yourself. We should have a batch of new updated shims in by the end of the week. We will make a post with official instructions when we get them in.

Thank you all for your support and feedback!

-Thomas
Tekno RC Customer Support

It is so awesome to see a company that follows these forums and actually answers questions!! I don't care if the answer is what I want to hear, it is nice to know we are heard. so far though, Tekno has been GREAT!!

Thanks for the fast response and the fix on the way....nice support !

thatīs cool, but let me throw in what we learned about mbx6 diff shims 3 years ago:
i overfilled them every time and a mugen team member told me to fill in little less oil and IT WORKED. he said it is caused by too much pressure from too much oil in there.

100% agreed I never fill them much past the cross bars then turn the diff a couple of times to make sure oil in behind gears then let settle and fill just above cross members at most never had a leak in any diffs

This has always worked for me when rebuilding diifs. No leaks and always feel the same.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0B46KBZKFw

Any one running the new aluminum diff cross pins? How do they hold up? Thanks

I am not running the new aluminum pins yet and I haven't heard much discussion amongst the other team guys about them but maybe someone will chime in.

Regarding the diffs, I have also noticed that the only time my shims were concaved was when I was overflled the diff. Otherwise I have rebuilt my EB and NB diffs ten times in the last 3 months and have only had 2-3 shims concave and it was always the rear nitro which i run 3k which flows out of the bottle real fast compared to 10k so I tend to overfill by accident on NB rear diff. That said even when they did concave, the diff still operated fine.

Also, as mentioned above, just because the oil is dark doesn't mean you have a leak, the black grease you use on the outdrive and on the oring get mixed in and change clear oil to dark real fast, its inevitable. If you have a leak, you will see it all over the inside of your diff case.

I have them in the SC, EB, NB, and NT. They seem to be holding up great. Much lighter than the stock pins. I ran the SC, EB, and NB at AMS and didn't see any wear when I rebuilt the NB for Texas.

I also had the original center diff shims concave in the NB but I've since switched it to the some of the original shims I bought forever ago. No issues since. I fill to about 1mm below the top of the case in all of my Teknos.

Any chance on getting the pins from TKR5071X as a separate part number. I would like to have just a few incase.

Hey guys I have a question. I'm considering getting into nitro buggy next season. What engines and pipes do you guys like? I've heard good things about the new Picco engines and the Werks engines. But here's a problem, I'm on a little bit of a small to mid-range budget. So I'm looking for something with good mileage for a buggy, 8-10 minutes on a tank.
Thank you