CSI PRO CLICKER SERIES SHOCKS
06-24-2013, 07:45 AM
#273
I ran my pro clicker shocks this weekend at the King of Kings at Stateline Rc in Fremont, In. (pics below)
Rc8.2E with a 609 gram battery, Tekin Rx8 and 1900.
I tried the lighter oils for the heavy car but needed more.
I went with 32.5 front and 27.5 rear w/ single seal.
There was spots on the track that other cars (nitro & electric) looked really choppy, my car stayed smooth and stable through those areas.
The front section got a bit wavy, 90% of the other cars would rise and fall through there with the tires lifting off the ground a bit.
My car moved up and down through that area quite a bit but the tires stayed in contact.
I made the A with some really great competition, but due to tuning for more steering and rotation when the mains hit and the groove blackened the car was extremely aggressive and was hard to hold onto.
I will be returning there next week for a series race and plan on trying a couple changes but so far I am impressed with how well the shocks performed.
A huge thanks goes out to Eric and the others who helped me get the shocks sorted out and ready to go in time for the event.
Dayton
Rc8.2E with a 609 gram battery, Tekin Rx8 and 1900.
I tried the lighter oils for the heavy car but needed more.
I went with 32.5 front and 27.5 rear w/ single seal.
There was spots on the track that other cars (nitro & electric) looked really choppy, my car stayed smooth and stable through those areas.
The front section got a bit wavy, 90% of the other cars would rise and fall through there with the tires lifting off the ground a bit.
My car moved up and down through that area quite a bit but the tires stayed in contact.
I made the A with some really great competition, but due to tuning for more steering and rotation when the mains hit and the groove blackened the car was extremely aggressive and was hard to hold onto.
I will be returning there next week for a series race and plan on trying a couple changes but so far I am impressed with how well the shocks performed.
A huge thanks goes out to Eric and the others who helped me get the shocks sorted out and ready to go in time for the event.
Dayton
07-03-2013, 03:55 AM
#275
They just received their new order of CSI shocks on Monday, but I believe those are sold already. They should have more coming next week.
07-05-2013, 08:13 AM
#276
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
It looks like they are available directly from CSI's website:
http://www.team-crp.com/search.asp?k...x=0&search.y=0
(At the time that I am posting this, of course)
07-06-2013, 03:23 AM
#277
Tech Apprentice
I am pumped now, so I would like to buy a set of shocks for xray xb9 and try them on, so which size should I order, I beleive kyosho size should fit,can anyone confirm that.
Regards to all
Regards to all
07-06-2013, 10:36 AM
#278
07-06-2013, 11:39 AM
#279
I'm intrigued and tempted 
Will wait to see & read more reviews of these as they're a bit pricey
Will wait to see & read more reviews of these as they're a bit pricey
07-06-2013, 11:59 AM
#280
Do they list the extended and collapsed lengths of the shocks anywhere? So that we can get get a set for a buggy that isn't specifically made for.
07-15-2013, 10:49 AM
#282
Okay guys I've been doing some testing over the past couple of weeks and one thing I've learned with these shocks is they require a different way of setting them up.
This past weekend I was able to come up with a good setup and I really felt like the whole package came together. I will say that I typically run heavier shock oils then most. When setting rebound most of us use the old school method of pushing the shock shaft up and slowly screwing the cap on the and once tight you compress the shock and the shaft will extend to where you set it. Well... not with these. You have to think of oil/volume and not be concerned that the shaft doesn't extend when you compress it. A tip that was provided to me was to get some fuel tubing and cut it to the length that you want (not to exceed 1") and use this to set your rebound. In other words cut your fuel tube to the length you want. Install it on the shaft compress the shock so that it hits the fuel tubing then slowly screw on the cap and tighten. Remove the fuel tubing from the shaft. The shock shaft should compress in and you shouldn't have any vapor lock. The shaft will not rebound but don't worry. Go out and test the setup on the track.
In my Mugen MBX 6 ECO I ran the CSI shocks (no boots) I ran the MBX 7 front shock tower, I set my rebound to 12mm. I ran 50/45 with the black Mugen springs. 10.25 and 9.25 with ride height 26/27. I have to say my car was dialed all weekend. When watching the other cars my car handled the face and landers of the jumps with ease and never felt unstable.
I think the next time I go out I will try going a little softer oil and see how the results yeild. Like anything there is no magic bullet but knowing that each shock is consistent, smooth and doesn't leak any oil should tell you that your run will be consistent from the start of the main to the end.
Thanks
Mark
This past weekend I was able to come up with a good setup and I really felt like the whole package came together. I will say that I typically run heavier shock oils then most. When setting rebound most of us use the old school method of pushing the shock shaft up and slowly screwing the cap on the and once tight you compress the shock and the shaft will extend to where you set it. Well... not with these. You have to think of oil/volume and not be concerned that the shaft doesn't extend when you compress it. A tip that was provided to me was to get some fuel tubing and cut it to the length that you want (not to exceed 1") and use this to set your rebound. In other words cut your fuel tube to the length you want. Install it on the shaft compress the shock so that it hits the fuel tubing then slowly screw on the cap and tighten. Remove the fuel tubing from the shaft. The shock shaft should compress in and you shouldn't have any vapor lock. The shaft will not rebound but don't worry. Go out and test the setup on the track.
In my Mugen MBX 6 ECO I ran the CSI shocks (no boots) I ran the MBX 7 front shock tower, I set my rebound to 12mm. I ran 50/45 with the black Mugen springs. 10.25 and 9.25 with ride height 26/27. I have to say my car was dialed all weekend. When watching the other cars my car handled the face and landers of the jumps with ease and never felt unstable.
I think the next time I go out I will try going a little softer oil and see how the results yeild. Like anything there is no magic bullet but knowing that each shock is consistent, smooth and doesn't leak any oil should tell you that your run will be consistent from the start of the main to the end.
Thanks
Mark
Last edited by munrath; 07-17-2013 at 05:17 AM.
07-16-2013, 09:22 PM
#283
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I expected more myself, I guess charging like 280$ after tax would be the reason most won't get them. I can go buy a full set of 2.0 shocks for 45$, to me having 6 sets of shocks is better then 1 pair because I know I can find what I need setting them up different to find what I need. Honestly I'd rather out that money toward needed stuff, when these shocks are leaps and bounds better then my normal shocks and about half the price ill consider them, until that happens I'm just not gonna be one of those guys who blew a huge chunk of my money on something that honestly probably doesn't work better then what I know I can set up good and works and is way cheaper.
07-17-2013, 05:29 AM
#284
I have been running these shocks since March on my MBX7 and I am very impressed with the shock's consistency. Comparing these to a losi 2.0 shock is laughable. It does take a little time to get the shocks dialed in to your liking as they need to go through a break-in process. The fit and finish of these shocks are far beyond anything that comes in a kit. Once you get the piston lapped in the shock body they become a completely different shock in my opinion.
I rebuilt my shocks a month ago and I have a club race weekend and AMS 4.0 on them without a single drop of oil leaking out. I can't say the same for my Mugen shocks that I run on my truggy. I rebuilt them after every qualifier at AMS because they showed signs of leaking.
The clicker shocks gives consistency throughout long runs and they actually get better once they get some heat in them. These shocks really excel on long runs because you have a shock that doesn't leak and will remain consistent.
Another reason to get the Clickers is the customer support that comes along with them. Eric and Garrett are always willing to take the time to talk through any questions I may have and make recommendations. Try calling Losi, Mugen, or any other manufacturer and see what kind of customer service you get.
Every part of these shocks are made in the USA and every set is hand inspected.
I have a new set of Clickers on my MBX6 ECO that I will be running this weekend so I will be able to provide some feedback on the Ebuggy.
I rebuilt my shocks a month ago and I have a club race weekend and AMS 4.0 on them without a single drop of oil leaking out. I can't say the same for my Mugen shocks that I run on my truggy. I rebuilt them after every qualifier at AMS because they showed signs of leaking.
The clicker shocks gives consistency throughout long runs and they actually get better once they get some heat in them. These shocks really excel on long runs because you have a shock that doesn't leak and will remain consistent.
Another reason to get the Clickers is the customer support that comes along with them. Eric and Garrett are always willing to take the time to talk through any questions I may have and make recommendations. Try calling Losi, Mugen, or any other manufacturer and see what kind of customer service you get.
Every part of these shocks are made in the USA and every set is hand inspected.
I have a new set of Clickers on my MBX6 ECO that I will be running this weekend so I will be able to provide some feedback on the Ebuggy.