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Old 05-21-2013, 06:02 PM
  #4546  
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Originally Posted by Bill Carson
I apologies if this is a repeat question but I see two completely different sets or ride heights for set up of the car. A lot of sheets say 23F 27R, but i have only seen a few with 29 to 31mm of ride height. would anyone be able to clarify why there is such a big difference? Type of track, driving skill, personal preference? My buggy was really loose in the rear this weekend and I think this is the reason why. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Brain....you coming to Family Hobbies this weekend???
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by beidle99
Brain....you coming to Family Hobbies this weekend???
Yup, I am planning on be there sunday! Track looks very cool.

RipModz - Thanks for the quick response, I guess i need to drive it harder! lol
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:18 AM
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http://rc-sharaku.com/newdeta.htm



Rear upright new sale to be used for MBX7 E2106-B rear upright MBX7 hole (E2116) passes through the rear lower arm shaft to rear upright this there are two. Hole is one the rear upright of standard kit. The width of the setting is spread you Ri. Please try.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:34 AM
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P/N Description
E2514 Rear Damper Stay CFRP


- Made from 4mm carbon plate
- Improved stability at the high grip or bumpy track.

Maybe other great tuning Opt to have Guys

Anyone try this item yet?

Looks like you can go shorter in the rear linkage wise.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:18 AM
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some video of last week race Reims race

http://www.inforc.net/

Mr. Hudy at the race tuning motors. at the 6:55 mark

Last edited by Motorman007; 05-22-2013 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:27 AM
  #4551  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007



P/N Description
E2514 Rear Damper Stay CFRP


- Made from 4mm carbon plate
- Improved stability at the high grip or bumpy track.

Maybe other great tuning Opt to have Guys

Anyone try this item yet?

Looks like you can go shorter in the rear linkage wise.
I have both front and rear in my car and they are really nice. Good fit, and super strong. Already took a nasty hit and they were fine, so Im pretty confident in them right now. Just MAKE SURE you seal the edges with CA glue, or they will break.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrokiller123
I have both front and rear in my car and they are really nice. Good fit, and super strong. Already took a nasty hit and they were fine, so Im pretty confident in them right now. Just MAKE SURE you seal the edges with CA glue, or they will break.
Thank you sir for the info.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by masher81
Have you ever actually built a DEX408 DNX408 or DNX408t? Or owned one?
My brother had one and it's by far the worse piece of crap nitro buggy of all time. I didnt own it personally, but I worked with him on his buggy every weekend, raced with him every weekend and personally saw what a junk it was. He DNF'd more races than he finished, all because of broken parts, things not fitting properly, etc. NOT user error.

How is it NOT user error?

He bought an MBX7 when I got mine, and he has YET to NOT finish a race. Has finished every single race he has entered, including practice runs, qualifiers, heats, etc etc.

THe durango is very pretty, that's for sure, it's awesome to look at and drives well, but it's the most unreliable car there is.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
some video of last week race Reims race

http://www.inforc.net/

Mr. Hudy at the race tuning motors. at the 6:55 mark
That is just crazy running in the rain like that. Did anyone finnish ?

Those poor track workers had a hell of a workout. Cool track if it was not raining.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:29 AM
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I'm going to a a race this weekend for the initial runs of my MBX7. However I forgot to purchase extra airfilters...

Is there any reason why I can not use my old Losi airfilter set foams in place of the MBX7 one?
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
I'm going to a a race this weekend for the initial runs of my MBX7. However I forgot to purchase extra airfilters...

Is there any reason why I can not use my old Losi airfilter set foams in place of the MBX7 one?
i run the losi set on my car... there is no issue at all
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
i run the losi set on my car... there is no issue at all
Cool, that's what I thought just wanted to make sure.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:32 AM
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Default Tank issues

I have had two updated tanks that leak around the lid and have caused flameouts and fuel to slowly spill out the lid area. I scratched my head for a few days and came up with a great solution that is easy to do.

First I remove the screw on the inside of the lid and put an inside wheel bearing rubber shield on the o ring and a thick diff shim inside the lid and putting the o ring and plastic piece back under the lid with the shield in place on top of the o ring. Then screwing in a slightly longer button head 3mm screw to effectively move the o ring slightly farther into the opening of the tank. Completely sealed after that.

To check if it is indeed leaking or sealing before and after the mod try to leave the tubing in place and submerge the tank while blowing in the fuel side tube while blocking the pressure line. No more bubbles.

my theory is the slight leak in the lid is causing low fuel pressure and unstable running of the engines.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:38 AM
  #4559  
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Originally Posted by Bill Carson
I apologies if this is a repeat question but I see two completely different sets or ride heights for set up of the car. A lot of sheets say 23F 27R, but i have only seen a few with 29 to 31mm of ride height. would anyone be able to clarify why there is such a big difference? Type of track, driving skill, personal preference? My buggy was really loose in the rear this weekend and I think this is the reason why. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
it turned out that the mugen just works way better with pretty low front ride height > 22 -25 mm is what every fast guy here in europe is running.
rear 25 -28 mm

the mugen just "donīt like" 26 + front ride height. just try it, huge difference!

even in rough conditions high jumps etc. no one of the europe pros goes higher than that.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:24 PM
  #4560  
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Originally Posted by merdith6
I have had two updated tanks that leak around the lid and have caused flameouts and fuel to slowly spill out the lid area. I scratched my head for a few days and came up with a great solution that is easy to do.

First I remove the screw on the inside of the lid and put an inside wheel bearing rubber shield on the o ring and a thick diff shim inside the lid and putting the o ring and plastic piece back under the lid with the shield in place on top of the o ring. Then screwing in a slightly longer button head 3mm screw to effectively move the o ring slightly farther into the opening of the tank. Completely sealed after that.

To check if it is indeed leaking or sealing before and after the mod try to leave the tubing in place and submerge the tank while blowing in the fuel side tube while blocking the pressure line. No more bubbles.

my theory is the slight leak in the lid is causing low fuel pressure and unstable running of the engines.
Been doing this since my 6 days...and telling everyone no matter what car they run to do it too. The mugens inner wheel bearings rubber shield is a perfect fit under the tank oring. A must mod imo.
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