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Old 04-24-2013, 12:33 PM
  #3946  
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Thanks for your help and suggestions. I ran allready 3 degree rear toe but will try 0.9 clutch springs and 5000wt rear diff after I try 5/5/2.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:18 PM
  #3947  
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Originally Posted by alport78
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I ran allready 3 degree rear toe but will try 0.9 clutch springs and 5000wt rear diff after I try 5/5/2.
Go to 3 in the rear, and those .9 springs will, when I run the stock clutch with my reds r5te I use them , tames the car alot.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:31 PM
  #3948  
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I stand by my theory :-) Works for me.

On somethings on our cars, there are mutiple setupguides i "feel" is wrong on many points, f.eks Xray`s setupguide on Ackerman. There is a question of how the design is in the first place. So, sometimes you can move the links forward and it calms the car down, other times it makes it more agressive. Kysosho MP 7.5 behaves compleatly different when moving ackerman than my Hobao at that time.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:15 PM
  #3949  
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Originally Posted by am
Mugens likes nutral toe the best....
Switch to a harder rear spirng, That will ad rear end grip.
I did not like the taper stock pistons and put the MBX6 stock shockpistons in. It calmes the car down.

I have only driven the car in France in febuary, at a slick track but did not have alot of problems. What you describe i felt for the first few tanks, but i adjusted the car close to your setup and it helped alot.

I found tires to be the biggest factor when loosing rear end grip.
Totally False... Anytime You Go Harder On The Spring The Less Traction
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:17 PM
  #3950  
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Originally Posted by alport78
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I ran allready 3 degree rear toe but will try 0.9 clutch springs and 5000wt rear diff after I try 5/5/2.
You have 3 toe but 2 deg a anti squat..


you want 3 toe and 1 anti squat. smoother the track the more anti squat.


Anti-squat does exactly what the term implies, it reduces the amount, the rear of the car squats under
acceleration, and rises under braking. Anti-squat only affects the handling of the car when accelerating or braking.
When the car is just coasting it wont significantly change the handling.
M ore anti-squat is good for high traction tracks, and it increases on-power steering, and also steering into corners,
specially directly following jumps. Drivers with aggressive driving styles tend to prefer a lot of anti-squat also on
bumpy tracks, while smooth drivers may prefer less. Less anti-squat will be smoother when accelerating in bumps, if
your driving style is smooth enough. Less anti-squat also increases traction. Personally I like to run a lot of antisquat,
3 – 3.5 degrees on all tracks.
----------------------------------------------




A smaller amount of caster will make the car twitchy, and more precise and hard to drive. The steering is very
responsive and the car turns a lot into the corner, but not as much in the corner and when accelerating out of it.
Increasing caster will calm the car down, it won’t turn as much into corners, but will have more steering in the
corner, and when accelerating out. The car will specially have more, and more consistent smoother steering in
long sweeping corners, that are driven on-power. Large amounts of caster also make the car more stable in bumps.
Large amounts of caster require the driver to be on-power a lot, in order to get the most steering out of the car.
Generally less caster is best for small technical tracks, and for low traction, and larger amounts is good for more
wide open, flowing tracks, and high traction. But in reality caster isn’t really changed much by the top drivers. I
don’t change it because I find what I feel works best, and then I stick to it, because I am comfortable with it.


What type of driver are you????
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX7-screenshot_lower-rear-arm-position.jpg   Mugen MBX7-screenshot_upper-rear-arm-position.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Self setup nisan 2013.pdf (290.4 KB, 169 views)
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:18 PM
  #3951  
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More Rear Traction:
Long rear upper link
Raise upper link on tower compared to hub
Lower complete lower link
M ore rear toe-in
Thinner diff oils
Lean rear shocks over on tower
Larger holes, or more holes in piston




Better Bump Handling:
Adjust shock oil (usually thinner, check shock absorbers advice)
Lean shocks over on tower
thinner diffs
M ore rideheight
M ore downtravel
Cut tyres inside and outside



More stability in long sweeping corners:
Stiffer front springs
Stiffer swaybars
Thicker oils in diffs



What to do first on a high traction track:
Front shock out on arm
Stiffer swaybars
Less rideheight
Smaller piston holes or thicker shockoil



What to do first on a low traction track:
Lean shocks over
Larger piston holes, or thinner oil
Long upper links
M ore rideheight
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:43 PM
  #3952  
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Looking for mugen diff gear box part number e0146. I only need the input half. Send me a PM if you have one i could buy.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:59 PM
  #3953  
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Anyone know what dot insert I need for 3° rear toe?
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:15 PM
  #3954  
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Originally Posted by RC-ZOMBIE
Anyone know what dot insert I need for 3° rear toe?
Here you go
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX7-screenshot_lower-rear-arm-position.jpg   Mugen MBX7-screenshot_upper-rear-arm-position.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:25 PM
  #3955  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Here you go
Thanks but for some reason pics won't stay open long enough for me to see it. Can u take a pic of the rear of your buggy if u r running 3°
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:30 PM
  #3956  
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3* of toe is achieved with the dot on the outer corner up or down.. the up or down adjust anti squat
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:22 PM
  #3957  
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Originally Posted by RC-ZOMBIE
Thanks but for some reason pics won't stay open long enough for me to see it. Can u take a pic of the rear of your buggy if u r running 3°
try clicking these links:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...m-position.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...m-position.jpg
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:41 PM
  #3958  
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Nice thanks
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:14 PM
  #3959  
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Originally Posted by alport78
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I ran allready 3 degree rear toe but will try 0.9 clutch springs and 5000wt rear diff after I try 5/5/2.
Sorry, I was looking at your toe chart backwards..

The 5/5/2 set up will definitely help calm down the acceleration out of the corner. I would try it with the 5/5/3 first and then try the 2. I talked to someone today who said they ran 10/10/5 in their 7. However, This is a very aggressive pro driver.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:21 PM
  #3960  
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Originally Posted by BlakeJefferson
Sorry, I was looking at your toe chart backwards..

The 5/5/2 set up will definitely help calm down the acceleration out of the corner. I would try it with the 5/5/3 first and then try the 2. I talked to someone today who said they ran 10/10/5 in their 7. However, This is a very aggressive pro driver.
One of the quick guys at my track runs 10/10/3, says he really likes it.

My first outing was recommended 5/5/3, didnt feel too bad either.
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