Also, dremel the front steering block a little where they hit the caster blocks so you get more throw - it gives way more steering. Basically, dremel a half moon right where they are marked "L" and "R".

really good tip!! thanks

A quick update on cars,we didn't have a very good start but no fault to do with car! First heat receiver packed in,second heat didn't set end points so throttle was on only 25% doh and final heat glow plug died!! so that put me in the c final last and really had a chance to test car. Ok so final started and the car was brilliant! Handled bumps with eeeees and jumps lovly sham I collided with another car and I stripped a plastic horn on the throttle servo both cars did take a pounding and have to say nothing broke bent or snapped will up date later when car is stripped and rebuilt

right then........ the first rebuild after being used for the first time at frankleys.Please remember this is our second time at frankleys and the first time was in the dry! On sunday the track was very wet and was the first time out for me and my mate with the new intech br6. appart from being one off those days were nothing goes right the cars did manage to take one hell off a beeting and after staying up till 2.30am and then carrying on today...... the cars cleaned up really well as if it just came out off the box!! and as for the plastics lmao they are as tight as they were as we first put them together the shock oils were more than good enough to leave on for at least 2 more meetings same as the diff oils. The car shows no sings off being out and battered and the time it took to strip and rebuild was just silly quick a real pleasure to work on. Now i've had a taste off what the car is like i have set up with different set up to try at cov on the 6th jan. Will up date again on what progress i have made with the new car
set up at frankleys went like this
diffs 3-5-1
shocks 6x 1.5 pistons front shocks 600 rear 550
the rest off car was set up to manual untill the final were i changed the rear camber links to the up position to see how this effects the car, should off left them at the bottom as in the wet i lost a bit off rear grip! DOH.

.

+ YouTube Video

Usually raising the rear link will pretty much do the same as making the link longer. This really should give the car traction and really not want to rotate very well. I've never felt that 1k in the rear diff was worth messing with unless I really needed the rotation.

greg don't you mean the reverse ?
higher link on tower gives less traction to the rear
lower links and longer links give more

No, not to a point. Leaving the link in the hub the same and just raising the link on the tower would be a mute point. However, raising the link in total if the car has that adjustment is more benificial. If the link cannot be raised by using a hole on the hub then raising the complete hub will yield better results. Many cars are different and the tower holes to the chassis can vary by measurements. My upper hole may just be your middle hole but in theory the angles should be close.

Merry Xmas to all.

Merry Christmas ever body

Merry Christmas everyone!

To me it is:
lower links on tower = more rear traction
longer camber links = more side bide, less forward bite
shorter camber links = less side bite, more forward bite.

I usually use the shortest camber link and lowest hole in tower for maximum rotation and forward traction. Then if my car rotates too fast, I go to a slightly longer rear camber link. Corner speed is the key to fast lap times.

+ YouTube Video