5LikesTeam Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming
05-17-2013, 11:05 PM
#8056
Excellent! Looking forward to seeing everyone at AKA. Hell, I haven't seen Tyler since the RCPro last year I don't think!
05-18-2013, 07:03 AM
#8057
Oh boy
05-18-2013, 11:23 AM
#8058
R/C Tech Elite Member
We will be looking into releasing the towers so everyone can have all the mods in one package for the most part. One problem is that we are not going to make a rod end for the front tower so these towers would really just be for the die hard racers that aren't scared about getting some custom parts to finish the setup. We will look into selling another companies rod end and ball to complete the setup though.
You do still need to dremel a little with a drum bit on the diff cases to give the camber link rod end room to pivot. The rear tower does have holes that reach past the 0 mod and all holes are still inline with the lower inner hinge-pins.
The towers offer other benefits besides the front camber mod and rear 0 mod, they also change the angle of the shock as you can see but I have also adjusted the amount of travel to better suit the AE shock (especially on rough track conditions).
At the Nats I will be running my 3rd generation of these towers (most likely with a bar on the front for production durability) which will most likely be the final geometry if we go to market.
We also have another part for the RC8.2 that I ran at the ROAR Warm Up and it performed very well so maybe we will couple it with the towers. It is a chassis support doo-hickey to aid in keeping the chassis a bit more flat in the middle.
You do still need to dremel a little with a drum bit on the diff cases to give the camber link rod end room to pivot. The rear tower does have holes that reach past the 0 mod and all holes are still inline with the lower inner hinge-pins.
The towers offer other benefits besides the front camber mod and rear 0 mod, they also change the angle of the shock as you can see but I have also adjusted the amount of travel to better suit the AE shock (especially on rough track conditions).
At the Nats I will be running my 3rd generation of these towers (most likely with a bar on the front for production durability) which will most likely be the final geometry if we go to market.
We also have another part for the RC8.2 that I ran at the ROAR Warm Up and it performed very well so maybe we will couple it with the towers. It is a chassis support doo-hickey to aid in keeping the chassis a bit more flat in the middle.
05-19-2013, 05:35 PM
#8060
rc8 cavaliery parts
hi i saw that cavaliery and mayfield are using in the upper arms other parts for the camber i would like to know what other parts are using this guys ??
hotbodies shock caps
guea parts?
camber rod ends parts ???
post them please thanks
hotbodies shock caps
guea parts?
camber rod ends parts ???
post them please thanks
05-19-2013, 08:07 PM
#8061
A couple of tips for you guys, which work well for me.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
05-19-2013, 08:13 PM
#8062
Tech Adept
A couple of tips for you guys, which work well for me.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
05-19-2013, 08:17 PM
#8063
Next up an optional AE tank clunk mod. Works with any clunk/fuel filter such as the one from the D8. Dremel away the tank insert mount inside the tank, carefully... don't want to scrape the opening or the lid won't seal. Drill a hole slightly smaller than your fuel line, so that it doesn't pinch and is not too loose. Clean out tank. Feed the line through, attach to clunk. Replace the standard fuel nipple with a short 4mm screw and some silicone. I've had good luck with this as well as the standard setup.
Last edited by rc pete; 05-20-2013 at 06:34 AM. Reason: Dremel step.
05-19-2013, 08:50 PM
#8064
Next up an optional AE tank clunk mod. Works with any clunk/fuel filter such as the one from the D8. Drill a hole slightly smaller than your fuel line, so that it doesn't pinch and is not too loose. Feed the line through, attach to clunk. Replace the standard fuel nipple with a short 4mm screw and some silicone. I've had good luck with this as well as the standard setup.
Last edited by sschultz; 05-20-2013 at 05:43 AM.
05-20-2013, 08:46 AM
#8066
That's how the Losi tank works as well. I may give it a shot. You recall what size bit you used?
05-20-2013, 10:54 AM
#8067
[QUOTE=heavyjeffd;12171138]That's how the Losi tank works as well. I may give it a shot. You recall what size bit you used?[QUOT.some fuel lines vary in dia. so I would test drill your own hole in some scrap plastic and fit your own...
Last edited by sschultz; 05-20-2013 at 01:19 PM.
