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Old 05-17-2013, 11:05 PM
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Excellent! Looking forward to seeing everyone at AKA. Hell, I haven't seen Tyler since the RCPro last year I don't think!
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:03 AM
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Oh boy
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by David Joor View Post
We will be looking into releasing the towers so everyone can have all the mods in one package for the most part. One problem is that we are not going to make a rod end for the front tower so these towers would really just be for the die hard racers that aren't scared about getting some custom parts to finish the setup. We will look into selling another companies rod end and ball to complete the setup though.

You do still need to dremel a little with a drum bit on the diff cases to give the camber link rod end room to pivot. The rear tower does have holes that reach past the 0 mod and all holes are still inline with the lower inner hinge-pins.

The towers offer other benefits besides the front camber mod and rear 0 mod, they also change the angle of the shock as you can see but I have also adjusted the amount of travel to better suit the AE shock (especially on rough track conditions).

At the Nats I will be running my 3rd generation of these towers (most likely with a bar on the front for production durability) which will most likely be the final geometry if we go to market.

We also have another part for the RC8.2 that I ran at the ROAR Warm Up and it performed very well so maybe we will couple it with the towers. It is a chassis support doo-hickey to aid in keeping the chassis a bit more flat in the middle.
That's good info. Any pics?
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd View Post
Excellent! Looking forward to seeing everyone at AKA. Hell, I haven't seen Tyler since the RCPro last year I don't think!
I know you miss me Jeffro! If you get there before me, save me and Kyle a spot.
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:35 PM
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Default rc8 cavaliery parts

hi i saw that cavaliery and mayfield are using in the upper arms other parts for the camber i would like to know what other parts are using this guys ??

hotbodies shock caps
guea parts?
camber rod ends parts ???
post them please thanks
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:07 PM
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A couple of tips for you guys, which work well for me.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming-image.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
A couple of tips for you guys, which work well for me.
First up, the pesky wheel nuts which occasionally back off. Cut a notch into them with your dremmel as in the pic so that they bite into the wheel better. I find the after market serrated nuts are a pain to get off if you over tighten them. I prefer the stock nuts with the notches.
I still have the original wheel nuts from when the Rc8t came out thanks to this lil trick. works like a charm.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:17 PM
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Next up an optional AE tank clunk mod. Works with any clunk/fuel filter such as the one from the D8. Dremel away the tank insert mount inside the tank, carefully... don't want to scrape the opening or the lid won't seal. Drill a hole slightly smaller than your fuel line, so that it doesn't pinch and is not too loose. Clean out tank. Feed the line through, attach to clunk. Replace the standard fuel nipple with a short 4mm screw and some silicone. I've had good luck with this as well as the standard setup.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming-image.jpg  

Last edited by rc pete; 05-20-2013 at 06:34 AM. Reason: Dremel step.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
Next up an optional AE tank clunk mod. Works with any clunk/fuel filter such as the one from the D8. Drill a hole slightly smaller than your fuel line, so that it doesn't pinch and is not too loose. Feed the line through, attach to clunk. Replace the standard fuel nipple with a short 4mm screw and some silicone. I've had good luck with this as well as the standard setup.
A clunk tank is a must. I put a d8 tank on my 8b and I can tell the difference. If you have a long sweeping left turn and then you slow at the end of it, your gonna suck air with the stock set up. I'll try this mod to my 8.2 tank as the d8 tank requires making the fuel hole bigger in the body. Good tip!

Last edited by sschultz; 05-20-2013 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:29 AM
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Forgot an important part to the tank mod. Edited above.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming-image.jpg  
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:46 AM
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That's how the Losi tank works as well. I may give it a shot. You recall what size bit you used?
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:54 AM
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[QUOTE=heavyjeffd;12171138]That's how the Losi tank works as well. I may give it a shot. You recall what size bit you used?[QUOT.some fuel lines vary in dia. so I would test drill your own hole in some scrap plastic and fit your own...

Last edited by sschultz; 05-20-2013 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:19 AM
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For those coming to the AKA shootout at Speed Monkey RC I wouldn't start out too heavy on the oils. They will be running the track dry.

My standard oil set up there is
1.3X8 40wt front
35wt rear

***This all depends on the temp too.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:31 AM
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Hey Marcus which 1.3x8 pistons do you run? (M2C,AE,orGHEA)
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Black View Post
For those coming to the AKA shootout at Speed Monkey RC I wouldn't start out too heavy on the oils. They will be running the track dry.

My standard oil set up there is
1.3X8 40wt front
35wt rear

***This all depends on the temp too.
I wanted to start with 60/47.5!!

With the 10 hole pistons.
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