Aaron Waldron

I never really mess with it, to tell you the truth. When I get a new car or kit, I spend a couple weeks coming up with a base setup that is going to work pretty much everywhere we go, and make simple changes from that point on.

Anti-squat can have a pretty big change on the balance of your car; maybe not as much as some adjustments (shock location), but much bigger than say...a camber link location. On my AD2, all I've ever really adjusted from track to track are camber links, and even then not too much.

riverrevo

iTrader: (2)

Any pics of the widening mod out there? I am still a little confused on how to do the back end?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You need to drill a new hole in the rear axle for the pin that supports the wheel hex. I would drill it 90 deg to the stock hole if you are going to do this. Then you need to add a .1" spacer to the back side of the hex to support it against the hub. The pin that supports the hex also holds the quick release lever so that will still be able to be used with this mod.

I just wish losi would release that parts to do this. All the pro's have made the mod so why won't losi just release updated parts. From watching Gardner try and put his front nuts on backwards at the NC it looks like they should release new front axles as well! Common Aaron. Talk to you losi contacts and get this done for the rest of us!

D Mac

Ive got a buddy that sells them for fifty dollar a set, they are pre- drilled, with metal spacers, and for the front, you get nuts already shaved down, and spacer with the shims on the nut, let me know if your interestead, he is a meachinist, and everything is perfect and measured.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

$50 is a little steep for my budget. But thanks for letting me know!

SavageSYNTH25

The rear mods are really what take up most of the time, but the mods are really worth it. The truck feels so much smoother in the corners and is much more stable with the new parts than with the old.

If you want extra front width without new front axles or making any axle mods, you can always run the old AD1 front wheels. Instant width!!!!!

Dave Mac: Is it Joe Ellis who does the rear axle mods???

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Which O.S engine are u guys using? Was wondering if u could suggest a
part #? plz

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I run this one

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUJ72&P=ML

It is a OSMG2045 12 CV-R w/10 E-R (Rotary) Carb

DAVE BERNATH

i just ran a race yesterday with same motor with a slide carb. i have the rotary and will try that next time. made enough power for me.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The rotary carb will take a little off the bottom end and make the car easier to drive. I would only use a slide carb on a real high bite track but even then it can be a hand full with only 2wd. It just seems a lot easier to drive 2wd gas trucks with rotary carbs.

DAVE BERNATH

I AM LOOKING FOR A EXPLANTION ON WHEN TO MOVE THE REAR HUBS UP OR DOWN AND HOW DOES THAT CHANGE BY ADDING WASHERS AT THE BALL STUD. THERE IS REALLY NOTHING IN THE MANUAL AND I HAVE NOT TRIED MOVING THEM AROUND YET

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The upper row of hubs will increase dog bone plunge and make the rear end drive stiff and have more forward traction. If you run the upper holes you need to add 4 washers to the ballstud on the rear hub.

Here is my rule of thumb. Moving the ball stud up is like making the tie rod shorter. Moveing the ball stud down is like having a longer tie rod. These changes are not as dramatic as moving the link though.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

What pipe do u suggest using?

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

use the drake pipe.

DAVE BERNATH

THANKS FOR THE INFO, IT WONT BE LONG BEFORE I WILL BE ABLE TO PRACTICE OUTSIDE, GOT A TRACK THAT IS 20-25 MIN AWAY THAT WILL BE OPEN FOR PRACTICE JUST ABOUT ANYTIME